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Question: water pump leaking

jrogensk

Active member
Joined
Feb 19, 2008
Messages
30
Location
Ft. Worth
Corvette
1993 Torch Red Coupe
Hi. I have been lurking on the boards for a couple weeks reading old posts to get familiar with my 1993 corvette. There's a lot of good info here. :)

I just found that my water pump is leaking. What do you recommend I replace while I have it torn apart? I have a list below based on other posts. The car has 103,000 miles and is stock. It is also an automatic.

water pump
thermostat
hoses
optispark
plugs
wires
pull radiator to clean between the condenser

Anything else?

I don't have the FSM yet, Helm seems to be out of them at the moment.

Thanks,
Jim
 
You may want to check the "drive shafts" seals, for the drives for the optispark, water pump and crankshaft seals. I had to replace those last winter. Obviously those things will be off anyway (except for the crank hub), may as well be for checking on them and replacing if they are seeping.
 
Thanks toms94.

Another question. Can I get away with just changing the cap and rotor? Or does the entire part go bad? I'm not real sure how the optispark works.
 
Don't forget coolant (anti freeze). If your car currently has the green stuff stick with it, don't mix green and red or you'll wind up with a cooling system filled with jello.

Check e-bay or the parts for sale sections of various Corvette forums for the FSM. Just remember that they are model year specific (1993 is a two volume set) and you'll want the red cover version, the white covers (which occasionally show up) are preliminary and don't contain all the information.
 
Don't forget coolant (anti freeze). If your car currently has the green stuff stick with it, don't mix green and red or you'll wind up with a cooling system filled with jello.

Check e-bay or the parts for sale sections of various Corvette forums for the FSM. Just remember that they are model year specific (1993 is a two volume set) and you'll want the red cover version, the white covers (which occasionally show up) are preliminary and don't contain all the information.

It currently has the green coolant, so I will go with that. I also purchased a set of the FSM today off of Ebay (with red covers). They are used but supposedly in good condition.
 
Thanks toms94.

Another question. Can I get away with just changing the cap and rotor? Or does the entire part go bad? I'm not real sure how the optispark works.

The way I understand it (as I am not an engineer), there is an optical sensor that has issues. Some people change out just the rotor and cap, but I figured for the added security I would replace the whole thing.
 
I am doing the same thing as you and also changing the water pump (comes with new thermostat), hoses, wires, plugs, opti, I may also change the belt and radiator cap. I am also changing the wiring harness but only because I broke mine when removing it from the opti. There is also a vacuum harness that is on the later opti cars that I am replacing.
 
If they are brand new GM Optis, then that is the best you are going to get. As far as OEM that is.
If aftermarket, the MSD is very nice.
My experience with the Opti is this, they arent the most dependable parts. Now many people will say I have a gazillion miles and still runs fine. I believe the factory had them put in right, and clearance is a big deal. The camshaft pin drives the opti, along with the cam splined gear coming out. Now, when you add RTV, different gaskets etc etc clearances change.
With you, it should be no biggie, as you arent replacing the timing cover.
But, I have done over 10 different Optis on different Vettes. I now run a 20 buck broken opti, modified to just turn the metal plate in there which tells the module where the engine is in relationship to timing, and run the DELTEQ. No issues what so ever..
If you go over 6000 rpm you run the real risk of breaking the rotor. It has to be the cheapest brittle plastic I have ever seen. When you take your old one out, tear that thing apart and look at it for educational purposes. JUNK>
I'm going to go ahead and replace everything since I will have it apart anyway. Then I won't have to do it again for another 100K miles. ;)

Does anyone have any experience with All Ignition products? They are selling new optisparks on ebay for $205.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-9...223171274QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item150223171274
 
I installed an Accel cap & rotor last summer. Make sure you tighten the screws for the rotor. My OEM rotor was still on the shaft, but the screws were at the bottom of the distributor when I took it apart!

I have close to 100,000 miles on mine and it runs like a raped ape!

If you have no oil leaks, I would leave well enough alone. JMHO!

SAVE THE :w
 
I did some more checking on the water pump leaking, as it doesn't leak all the time. I got a mirror underneath the water pump to see if I could tell where the water pump was leaking from. It looks like the water pump is not leaking, but the temperature sensor is. The sensor is all corroded and you can clearly see where antifreeze is leaking from the threads.

I already ordered a water pump, but I am going to replace the sensor and keep an eye on it. Hopefully that is all it needs for now.
 
Well, I replaced the ECT switch but turns out the front cover on the waterpump is definately leaking, so it will need to be replaced. :cry

I have a question on draining the antifreeze. The FSM says just drain the radiator. However, after I drained the radiator and pulled the engine coolant temp switch out of the water pump a whole lot of antifreeze came out of the water pump. What is the proper way to drain the engine?
 
Many will tell you to pull the knock sensors out of the sides of the block to finish draining the coolant. But when I changed mine out I just pulled the lower radiator hose off, so when I pulled the water pump off, very little coolant ran out.
 
Many will tell you to pull the knock sensors out of the sides of the block to finish draining the coolant. But when I changed mine out I just pulled the lower radiator hose off, so when I pulled the water pump off, very little coolant ran out.

The FSM did mention puling the knock sensors. I didn't realize they were in the water passages. I'll do that when I change the pump.

Thanks
 

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