Weiand or Performer.....Now I have an excuse :-)

[sscam69]

I have stripped the heck out of a bolt on the intake, actually its an adapter, for the temperature sensor.

Well I tried using a wrench and that pretty much stripped what was left of the adapter and my final shot was to use a monkey wrench hoping that it would grab the bolt and I would be able to unscrew it loose. No such luck. I forgot how soft brass is and just made it worse. To add on top of that I can't screw in the temp sensor back in because it is now deformed. Now I can't drive my car

This could not come at a better time though. I have to check the timing of the car along with a few other details and this would provide and opportune time to fix all this stuff over a weekend.

Another thing. I bought a painless wiring harness for my electrical fans. What I love about it is the temperature sensor is it bolts into the intake or the heads depending on your preference. Well now that I have two sensors (temp gauge as well) I need two places where I can bolt them in, and I screwed up one of them.

I remember on a previous post that someone mentioned that the Weiand intake performed just as good or better than the Performer RPM and did not have clearance issues.

My question is which Weiand intake is it? The stealth? Action Plus?

Thanks for any help

 

[sscam69]

Here is a pic of the brass adaptor.

Oh I am leaning towards the stealth because it is good from idle to 7000rpm. The ad says it acts like a dual plane but with special runnners for up to 7k rpm. Sounds good to me.

 

[resto75]

Nice work !!!! I do things like that all the time. I especially like over tighten bolts and stripping them. Putting lugs on a wheel and using about 3000 lbs of torque is fun too, till they gotta come off.,,,,oh yeah I almost forgot ,over tightening spark plugs and oil filters.

On a serious note I am also considereing changing manifolds as my single plane is not really a good choice for me. ( or probably anyone else on the street). I was wondering about the Eldelbrock EPS. It claims to be a good street manifold. Maybe someone has tried one out.

 

[cruzer99]

I would try some penetrating oil before giving up. I have used a product call "NUTS OFF" with good luck. Soak it, tap it with a hammer firmly a few times ( the vibration will drive the oil down into the threads), and let it sit over night then try it.
Also check with your local parts house for an easyout.
Good luck.:bang

 

[AKRAY4PLAY]

fellas,
i ran the Weiand 300-36 on my 406. it made great low end power and was able to rev over 6000rpm, then i ran out of cam. it cleared my stock '77 L-82 hood, barely!! it should fit under your hood, as long as you use a drop base filter and no thicker than 3 inches on the filter element. if hood clearence is a problem, then you may want to look at the Weiand 300-38. i know it says it will only flow to 5500rpm, but the guy who hooked me up with all my parts flow tests every high performance part he can. he showed me the flow numbers, and the Weiand dual planes have very good numbers. the 36 is your best choice, and the 38 should serfice to 6200rpm. i hope this helps, brian

 

[sscam69]

I have some penetrating oil, bought it for other reasons, but the bolt is stripped beyond torquing anymore. I can't even get a grip with the pipe wrench anymore and the area I have to turn is very limited.

I have actually wanted to do this for a while but just have not had the reason to justify it, now I do


I have also heard of that performer EPS but I am curious as to the hood clearance and whats the difference between it and the Performer RPM and Performer. I think it falls in between but why would someone produce a product this only gives a bit of increase over the base product and just below the high end product. In other words there is a small increase in powe/torque between the performer and perf. RPM but not enough to justify something in between.

 

[resto75]

I think your right about the EPS manifold being between the perf and the perf RPM. There has to be a reason it was made as I'm sure Edelbrock would of thought of that too.

Possibly it is lower in height then the RPM and gives almost the same performance. They are claiming it was designed for the 350 CI engine, where the perf was designed for everything from 265 CI to 400 CI

I use PB Blaster for penetrating oil. It works well for me.

 

[sscam69]

I will give that penetrating oil a shot and see how it goes but I don't think its gonna help. I really have nothing to grab onto anymore even with the pipe wrench.

 

[TONY TAT2]

I agre with the "easy out" method also.But it seems like your set on a manifold change anyway,GOOD LUCK!!!

 

[sscam69]

it seems like your set on a manifold change anyway

:cool

 

[Hijinx]

Both companies make good intakes. You will find more Edelbrock's out there because everybody carries them. I have a Performer on my '73 and it fit fine with the stock hood and carb. When I went to the Speed Demon carb, it would not clear the hood (So I got the big block hood). The RPM will produce good low to mid-range power, similar to the Performer. The main difference, as I see it, is the RPM has a higher rise and provides more runner length. I put a 1 inch spacer on mine when I got the new hood and it probably makes within a few HP of the RPM. I dont know much about Weiand, but I do know Edelbrock customer service is great.

 

[vigman]

This might sound silly

But since the base ( adaptor ) wont move...

Just buy a tap & re chase the threads so you can get the sender back in....

( I know not as cool as a new manifold.... but beats walking)


Vig!

 

[vigman]

The other attack plan

Using a chisel ( big chisel & BIGGER HAMMER)

WEAR EYE PROTECTION!

Try to split the adaptor.....Pound IN twds the hole from the outside and that might deform the adaptor enough to let you back it OUT.

I would do this AFTER the re-tap the hole plan fails.

And if possible I would pre heat it with a propane torch.

Assuming you have a clear shot & no GAS leaks.


Vig!

 

[sscam69]

Put the finishing touches

Well today I decided to take car of odds and ends on the vette changing the oil, oil filter, etc...

I decided to have that adapter one more shot and well the outcome was not so good.

I went at it with the pipe wrench one more time and the thing would not catch. Anything that the teeth would grab onto as soon as I would start to turn would just shear right off. I tried with the vise grips and same result.

My dad decides to come out and see what I am up to sure enough he asks

"what are you breaking this time?"

kinda awkward huh?

So I tell him the situation and he suggest cutting across the adapter and just put a big screw driver and turn it that way (ala Vig!). I tell him "nope, won't work the material is just to soft" then I think well what do I have to lose.

So I cut across with a small saw then use a file for leverage and boink and breaks. My brother next to me laughs. So then I use a thicker piece of metal and half of the adapter breaks off My dad says "get me a hammer and chisel" (ala Vig!). He hammers away and takes out the second half

Now I was thinking just to drill and rethread the hole instead of buying a new manifold (ala Vig!). Its a kinda iffy financial purchase at this point in time, but doable.

Well here is the end result

 

[vigman]

Not quite what I had in mind.....

The slot is a good trick on the right setup... obviously not this one...

So the fitting ( adaptor ) is now flush with the aluminum intake... Is the bottom part threaded?

Like I stated before... you should run a tap through FIRST.

Oh well.....

Other ways to go
1) Start drilling, in SMALL STEPS providing you have a drill motor that will handle those JUMBO sizes. get to 2 sizes under the tap for the aluminum hole ( assuming 1/2 pipe thread ).. the bronze side wall should be SO THIN at this point... you should be able to peel it off the Aluminum threads.

2) The easy out... but if a pipe wrench didn't get it before.. this will probably just snap.

3) If you can get a jig saw blade down the hole.. start cutting away at the side wall of the adaptor then use a chisel to split where you cut.

4) New manifold... I would venture you have taken enough time messing with this.. you could have installed 2 @ this point.


Vig!

 

[sscam69]

Steps 1-3 sound like a pretty good way to go as a last shot effort. I am actually shocked at how much trouble this has been. I definitely didn't expect it from something like this but oh well.

as far as #4 I hear that!!

The biggest drill size I have is 3/8, but the machinist at the university will lend me what I need. He's got all kinds of wicked tools!!:eek


If I had seen your post I would of have followed you suggestions but didn't see it until I was done.

Thanks for the advice Vig!

Frank

 

[vigman]

Whoops

Oh well...



Vig!

 

[Jack]

I remember on a previous post that someone mentioned that the Weiand intake performed just as good or better than the Performer RPM and did not have clearance issues.

My question is which Weiand intake is it? The stealth? Action Plus?

Thanks for any help

Dunno about Performer RPM (RPM).

But Weiand Action Plus pn 8004 is functional equivalent of Edelbrock Performer pn 2101. The 8004 is oft-mentioned as making slightly better numbers than 2101 ... and about $10-$15 less. Either will present NO clearance problem with factory carb, air cleaner & low-rise hood. Both are low-rise, dual-plane intakes having both squarebore (holley) & spreadbore (QJet) flanges. If you wanna keep your QJet then verify intake choice has spreadbore flange ... most mid-rise do not.

Here are flange heights ... the first one is what was on my 71 L48.
Intake Manifold, GM cast iron c/n 3973460 F = 2.69” R = 4.375”

Intake Manifold, Weiand alum. p/n 8004 F = 3.50” R = 4.00”

Intake Manifold, Edelbrock alum. p/n 2101 F = 3.50” R = 4.60”

BTW, if you have to R&R intake ... think of it as an opportunity ... for a cam/lifter swap.

JACK:gap

 

[sscam69]

BTW, if you have to R&R intake ... think of it as an opportunity ... for a cam/lifter swap.

Yeah I know, tell me about it!!

I have the money to do it, ~$300, but I am getting married in June so spending money on my project isn't looked to highly upon. by my fiance and my parents.

Funny when I was messing with the manifold I was talking with my dad and he said

"all you need is a cam and heads"

I said "yup, I know that. Wanna donate to my project fund?"

He just laughed and then stayed quiet. That got me thinking, "maybe I can strike up some kinda of a deal" he he. I know I have a chance when he stays quiet he he.

I already know what cam I want, XE268 from comp cams, but I don't know what kind of springs my car has. I know they are not stock and I remember on the rebuild the mechanic had a Comp Cams box of springs.

Does anybody know if they have an ID stamped into them. If it does I can check it so that I can same myself the cash and just by the cam and lifters (~$150).

Now that I am thinking I have a dual snorkel air cleaner setup and an L-82 fan shroud barely used (bought it like new, not manufactured anymore) maybe I can sell those parts for the funds:dance

 

[Jack]

Nothing stamped into springs. If your mechanic was rebuilding a stock L82, and used Comp springs ... chances are he used either 980 or 981 springs. The 981 is recommended for XE268. Here's a way to tell: Get a GOOD caliper and measure the outside diameter of SEVERAL springs when valves are in closed (longest) position. The OD of 980 = 1.230" ... the OD of 981 = 1.254" ... BTW, the 981 type spring is commonly known as a Z28 spring. The XE268 lift of .480" is near the limit for most stock rocker arms.
JACK:gap