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What can't you use anti-sieze grease on?

entropy454

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 10, 2008
Messages
127
Location
Indiana
Corvette
1969 Fathom Green 427 4 speed coupe
Is there anything on our cars that you should not have anti sieze grease put on the threads of a bolt?

I am wondering specifically if there are bolts that could vibrate off for example or the grease could call contamination?
 
The actual truth to Antiseize is that torque readings change when you use this chemical.
The particles, plus the petroleum base changes the way the fastener turns, thus the change in torque specifications.

SPARKPLUGS are the #1 thing you should NEVER EVER use antiseize on.
Wheel lugs is #2.

Allthebest, c4c5
 
Wow. I was often told the two key places you do add anti-seize is on the bolts on the thermostat housing(expecially with aluminum intake) and on wheel lugnuts.
 
HI there,
Ask yourself one question on both counts, why do NO VEHICLES EVER PRODUCED have anti seize on their wheel studs or spark plugs??????

The only time people need antiseize on wheel studs is when the lug nuts are overtorqued and crush the seat surfaces that mate to the wheel. That pinches the metal onto the wheel studs, so they are difficult to take off.

Antiseize on spark plugs is ALWAYS A NO NO. Once the liquid evaporates overtime, you create a metal on metal condition with the antiseize that could bind the plug into the head and pull the threads as you remove it. Also, it has been known in certain circumstances to create an insulative coating to ground so the sparkplugs do not fire.

Every single sparkplug manufactured today carries and antioxidation electroplating that prohibits bonding to disimilar metals. Thats why they tell you NEVER USE A WIRE BRUSH on the sparkplug threads.

Proper installation is 1 drop of synthetic oil on the threads and torque to specification.

Allthebest, c4c5
 
lug nuts no, but I always use anti seize on the wheel hubs since the aluminum tends to seize on the hubs.
 
HI there,
Ask yourself one question on both counts, why do NO VEHICLES EVER PRODUCED have anti seize on their wheel studs or spark plugs??????

The only time people need antiseize on wheel studs is when the lug nuts are overtorqued and crush the seat surfaces that mate to the wheel. That pinches the metal onto the wheel studs, so they are difficult to take off.

Antiseize on spark plugs is ALWAYS A NO NO. Once the liquid evaporates overtime, you create a metal on metal condition with the antiseize that could bind the plug into the head and pull the threads as you remove it. Also, it has been known in certain circumstances to create an insulative coating to ground so the sparkplugs do not fire.

Every single sparkplug manufactured today carries and antioxidation electroplating that prohibits bonding to disimilar metals. Thats why they tell you NEVER USE A WIRE BRUSH on the sparkplug threads.

Proper installation is 1 drop of synthetic oil on the threads and torque to specification.

Allthebest, c4c5

That is great info C4C5, I was always told to use anti-seize on exhaust bolts and manifold bolts. But that was about it for that chemical. I do use a good coating on the small-block water pump bolts as they tend to rust inside the block where they enter into the water jacket? I never knew to use a drop of synthetic oil on the spark plugs ! Thanks for the tips. :w
 
My experience is to use anti-sieze on exhaust pipe bolts and anytime you bolt into aluminum.
 
My experience is to use anti-sieze on exhaust pipe bolts and anytime you bolt into aluminum.
Yep, me to. I use anti-seize on my spark plugs without having any issues......yet. I also use it on the header bolts. I suppose it's time for more research....
 
Aircraft mechanics have been using anti-seize on spark plugs for decades.
 
The actual truth to Antiseize is that torque readings change when you use this chemical.
The particles, plus the petroleum base changes the way the fastener turns, thus the change in torque specifications.

SPARKPLUGS are the #1 thing you should NEVER EVER use antiseize on.
Wheel lugs is #2.

Allthebest, c4c5

Good info... thanks. I've used anti-seize on spark plugs and lugs... never experienced any problems; but I'll clean up everything to prevent any long-lasting damage.
 
I have used it on just about everything. Lug nuts, sparkplugs, header bolts and anything that is threaded into an aluminum block. On lug nuts I change the torque settings to something a little lower to keep from breaking a stud off.
 
I've read in many places over the years where one should never, ever lubricate lug nuts. :beer
 
I have used anti-seize lube on my lug nuts and have never had an issue with it. I torque to specs whereas most people tighten lugs as tight as they can get them thinking it's better to be safe than sorry, usually over tightening them which makes them difficult to remove later on. They now think they are seized on from oxidation and corrosion but hey are generally just over tightened.
 
My experience is to use anti-sieze on exhaust pipe bolts and anytime you bolt into aluminum.

That might be your "experience" but experts, ie: people who work on Corvettes every day for a living recommend not using metallic anti-sieze compounds in certain situations with steel threads into aluminum holes, such as the aforementioned spark plugs.

There's another reason not to use metallic antisieze on plugs is that, if during the antisieze application you inadvertantly get any of the antisieze lube on the center electrode, the plug will misfire. Some may say, "Well, I'm really careful when I apply it." My reaction is that even a tiny bit of antisieze (which you might not even see) can cause a misfire.

The suggestion to use a little engine oil on the threads then install the plug is good advice.

If you absolutely can't bring yourself to not use antiseize, go find some DuPont Krytox antisieze, which is a non-petroleum, non-metallic product and use that.

Bottom line: there are some situations where antiseize is appropriate and there are others where it is not.

As for wheel nuts, if you use antiseize on them then torque to the manufacturer's specification---which is derived with dry threads you will over-tighten the wheel nuts. When you overtighten the nuts you create a safety problem because you will stretch the wheel studs close to yield and, in some cases, you will warp the brake disc.
 
That might be your "experience" but experts, ie: people who work on Corvettes every day for a living recommend not using metallic anti-sieze compounds in certain situations with steel threads into aluminum holes, such as the aforementioned spark plugs.

There's another reason not to use metallic antisieze on plugs is that, if during the antisieze application you inadvertantly get any of the antisieze lube on the center electrode, the plug will misfire. Some may say, "Well, I'm really careful when I apply it." My reaction is that even a tiny bit of antisieze (which you might not even see) can cause a misfire.

The suggestion to use a little engine oil on the threads then install the plug is good advice.

If you absolutely can't bring yourself to not use antiseize, go find some DuPont Krytox antisieze, which is a non-petroleum, non-metallic product and use that.

Bottom line: there are some situations where antiseize is appropriate and there are others where it is not.

As for wheel nuts, if you use antiseize on them then torque to the manufacturer's specification---which is derived with dry threads you will over-tighten the wheel nuts. When you overtighten the nuts you create a safety problem because you will stretch the wheel studs close to yield and, in some cases, you will warp the brake disc.

very good information, thanks.:thumb
 
Anti seize usage

I agree wholeheartedly about the non use of Anti-Seize on wheel lugs, but disagree totally about spark plugs. I've been using antiseize compound on plugs for 20 years and never had a problem. On cars with 100,000 mile plug change intervals, you should remove them at 50K miles and use antiseize on the threads and put them back in. Not doing so risks damage to the threads and not being able to remove them at the 100K mark.
I'm not a mechanic by trade, but I know some who are, and that's their advice.
 

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