What motor oil do you use?

[brandywine]

I use Red Line 10W30. I change the filter every 3k miles and the oil about every 6-7k miles. I don't let the car sit over the winter without starting it every couple of weeks at least.

 

[JohnZ]

I use Red Line 10W30. I change the filter every 3k miles and the oil about every 6-7k miles. I don't let the car sit over the winter without starting it every couple of weeks at least.

Unless you take it out and drive it at least ten miles in the winter so the oil gets to full operating temperature, you're better off not to start it at all; otherwise all the cold-start rich mixture combustion by-products and blow-by contaminants combine with the condensation in the pan and make the oil more acidic every time you start it. That junk won't boil off unless the oil (not just the coolant) gets over 200*F. Just let it sit- won't bother it at all - none of the seals will "dry out" during winter storage - that's an old wives' tale.

 

[bossvette]

I drive mine quite a bit so I use the new Mobil 1 synthetic extended use and have been using regular Mobil 1 for over 10 years in other Cars with good results.
For me the longer Oil change intervals are worth the extra money otherwise I would be changing my oil every 2 or 3 months instead of twice a year.

 

[redvett]

I'm not offended at all by a differing opinion, I'd like to settle this in my own mind. I would appreciate additional comments from Vettehead Mikey. He obviously has more real experience than the rest of us, but I wonder if requirements of aircraft maintence are comparable to auto maintence. Hopefully they are a great deal stricter.

On the other hand if you are like me the oil in my collector cars seldom even gets that dark because I change oil by time rather than mileage.

Any more details Mikey?

Your 92 came factory filled with Mobil 1 and it needs it to keep oil temps in check since there isnt any oil cooler. Change your oil by the oil life monitor or once every year.

 

[TJay]

I use Castrol GTX 10w-30 in mine

I use the same in all my cars.

 

[Scott Winebarger]

I guess you will hear all the brands before this is over .

I use Valvoline Max Life . It comes in a pretty bottle. :L

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Your 92 came factory filled with Mobil 1 and it needs it to keep oil temps in check since there isnt any oil cooler.

I think you've misinterpreted why there is no oil cooler and why GM filled with Mobil 1 instead of dino.

Synthetic oils do not cause an engine to run any cooler (or hotter) than any other type.

 

[Norseman]

Oil

I have used Mobil-1 in all my motorcycles for years. Sometimes I change the oil every other year the bikes get riden hard and I have had no oil related problems. I have run it in V-twins and crotch rockets and it is one of the best investments you can make in your machines. IMHO

 

[brandywine]

Unless you take it out and drive it at least ten miles in the winter so the oil gets to full operating temperature, you're better off not to start it at all; otherwise all the cold-start rich mixture combustion by-products and blow-by contaminants combine with the condensation in the pan and make the oil more acidic every time you start it. That junk won't boil off unless the oil (not just the coolant) gets over 200*F. Just let it sit- won't bother it at all - none of the seals will "dry out" during winter storage - that's an old wives' tale.

I agree... when I start it up in the winter, unless the hoods up, I am going somewhere... usually for food!:L

 

[Chas]

Pennsoil 10-W-40

Pennzoil works well for me in all of my rides...
(and that bright yellow bottle looks cool when im letting it drain!)
Chas

 

[Jeb]

Junkie - I've been told that it's better to break in a rebuilt engine with regular oil, a little heavier than one would use normally, for a couple of hours and then switch to the synthetic 5W30 (or whatever oil one uses regularly).

Do you have an opinion on this?

 

[Gry Ghst]

I second THAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ps.I use Castrol SynTec in my LS6 in my Haul'n Truck!!

The junk man knows these things and a lot more...........

 

[GRAND SPORT #12]

I use synthetic mobile one but and good synthetic is ok your brand preference. Alot of times i see people who use synthetic thinking they can go a longer interval between oil change service that i dont agree with. does synthetic protect better i dont know, but i do know when i run synthetic the oil temp is usually 10 degrees cooler than with regular oil, so which ever i use i still change a 3k miles. i really dont reccomend ever going over 5k miles on intervals regardless of what type of oil

 

[larryg3]

I am a little late to this rodeo but the only thing that i can add to this is that for flat tappet engines Like ours we need Zinc and Phosphorus. the new oils do not have enough zddp to protect the cams from wear.
For example
Castrol sytech offers a special formula with higher levels of ZDDP and is labeled (Classic Car Formula).

Do you homework before you add any oil dino or syntetic for that matter

 

[Evolution1980]

I am a little late to this rodeo but the only thing that i can add to this is that for flat tappet engines Like ours we need Zinc and Phosphorus. the new oils do not have enough zddp to protect the cams from wear.
For example
Castrol sytech offers a special formula with higher levels of ZDDP and is labeled (Classic Car Formula).

Do you homework before you add any oil dino or syntetic for that matter

I agree with the zinc and phosphorus part. Basically, when looking at an oil (I prefer full synth), I choose the oil with the LEAST number of certs (ILSAC, SAE, etc). More certifications means less phosphorus.

 

[JimVette]

I use Mobil 1 15-50 because it still has ZDDP in it and it's more easily available.

 

[baxsom]

I am surprised that the ZDDP thing wasnt mentioned until the 3rd page. Flat tappet cams need that additive in the oil so it doesnt wipe a lope. There is a sticky over on corvetteforum.com that lists every oil that has the universal agreed amount of zddp in it. List of Flat-Tappet Oils - Corvette Forum

Me, i switched my BB over to a roller cam so now I can use modern oil and not ever worry about flat tappets or zddp anymore.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

I am surprised that the ZDDP thing wasnt mentioned until the 3rd page.

That's because the thread was mercifully sleeping for three and a bit years before somebody dragged it back from the dead. Three and a half years ago is before the world became convinced that the sky was indeed falling.

The thread on CF does far more harm than good, I wouldn't put much faith in it.

 

[Hib Halverson]

Oil threads draw misinformation like s**t draws flies.


It was said earlier that switching from petroleum-based oil to synthetic will not change oil temperature. For the most part, that's incorrect. A top quality synthetic (not synthetic blends) will reduce peak oil temperature and ester-based synthetics (Red Line and some Lucas products) can reduce it more.

As for Zinc, phosphorous and ZDP, some of what's been posted in this thread is not correct. For the right story on ZDP levels in oils used in engines with flat tappet camshafts see an article elsewhere on the CAC
CAC's Comprehensive Look at Engine Oil and Flat-Tappet Camshaft Durability

 

[Norseman]

First oil?

This makes no sense to me.

Junkie - I've been told that it's better to break in a rebuilt engine with regular oil, a little heavier than one would use normally, for a couple of hours and then switch to the synthetic 5W30 (or whatever oil one uses regularly).

Do you have an opinion on this?