Wheel and or Hub Bearings

[captainrags]

Is it posible to remove and replace or repack all four hubs and bearings. Or do you have to replace complete units.
"Old style mechanic"

 

[G Winter]

The wheel bearings on a C4 are sealed units replaced as such.

Glenn

 

[Hib Halverson]

82 was the last year that front wheel bearings are field-serviceable by the user.

C4, C5 and C6 use hub/bearing assemblies that cannot be serviced in the field.

 

[boomdriver]

Is it posible to remove and replace or repack all four hubs and bearings. Or do you have to replace complete units.
"Old style mechanic"

Replace with quality OEM replacements. There are a TON of cheap chinese bearings that have been introduced into the American market and they find their way into aftermarket hub/bearing assemblys. They are half price, and last half as long too.
If you come across someone selling these hubs with grease zerks drilled in, run as fast as you can. These are old hubs that have been pressed apart, like the cheap ones and rebuilt with even cheaper bearings that are dependent on new grease all the time.The hole thats drilled in the hub weakens the assembly and they never get new grease anyway. They're junk designed to take your money, not extend the life of your car.
New sealed bearings are tight and made from top quality materials.
The BIG downside to cheap hub replacements is when the wheel comes off on the freeway. :ugh

The good GM hub will go 100,000 miles. The cheapie stays tight maybe 20,000...after that its only a matter of time before something comes apart.

 

[93Rubie]

I disagree with a good GM bearing going 100K, I have a LR wheel bearing with a little play in it. Not much, but it is there. All others are still good however at 54K. Any recommendations as far as brand? Obviously, AcDelco=Pricey, I have heard that Timken is ok, some of there stuff made in Chine? Wheel Bearings Inc. supposedly is all USA made stuff and reasonably priced.

You get what you pay for, however, if one can get a good product at a reasonable price, well duh...

I put some cheapies on for buddy of mine, his car is nothing but a DD and he got it really cheap. His car doesn't see drag strip launches they way mine does either.

 

[vetteoz]

. Any recommendations as far as brand? Obviously, AcDelco=Pricey,

Best price on late OEM Delco fronts
1991 - 1996 Corvette C4 Front Hub Assembly

Were selling the OEM rears for $140 but someone bought all their stock :ugh

 

[93Rubie]

Yeah, I checked them, bummer, they only have used GM bearings for the rear. Which ironically is what I need.

 

[LT4_UK]

GM bearings don'tr last 100k

My rear bearings had 51k with some play so I just replaced with Timken which say "Made in the USA" on the box so hope they are OK.

A friend of mine is replacing his on a 93 at 47k and he found a note in the history that advised replacement at 26k as one had paly in it.

There's a 93 for sale near me that has had new bearings at 50k and a friend of mine with a 90 ZR-1 replaced his at 45k.

All above refer to rear bearings apart from the Z which had all 4 replaced.

My fronts are perfect.

I hope the Timkens last. They seem very well made and have no grease nipples or anything...

Malc

 

[boomdriver]

My rear bearings had 51k with some play so I just replaced with Timken which say "Made in the USA" on the box so hope they are OK.

A friend of mine is replacing his on a 93 at 47k and he found a note in the history that advised replacement at 26k as one had paly in it.

There's a 93 for sale near me that has had new bearings at 50k and a friend of mine with a 90 ZR-1 replaced his at 45k.

All above refer to rear bearings apart from the Z which had all 4 replaced.

My fronts are perfect.

I hope the Timkens last. They seem very well made and have no grease nipples or anything...

Malc

Part of getting the maximum service out of any part is keeping it clean and free from grease/dirt buildup. When oil film appears, dirt and grit collect and start to slowly eat away at the part. Spraying that grease or oil film off every couple months will save hub bearings, help brakes last longer, and keep suspension joints tighter. Since the common complaint is rear wheel bearings going out at under 100K, I would have to believe that is because rears are more difficult to clean or even SEE if they are collecting dirt. If dirt sticks, its beacuse the grease is leaking out. At that point cleanliness is critical.
I learned a long time ago that a clean under-carraige last longer.


I guess all those quarters at the car wash laying in the water paid off...Even though a hub bearing has seals, grease still leaks out and dirt, water leaks in.

 

[captainrags]

Although i know that it is sugested that the complete unit be replaced, but if it's just pressing a bearing out and another in that dosent seem to dificult. Timken bearings are of good quality as far as i remember. Abearing and new seal must be much less expensive.

 

[G Winter]

I think the bearings are ball bearings, unlike the tapered bearings in older cars.


Glenn

 

[boomdriver]

I think the bearings are ball bearings, unlike the tapered bearings in older cars.


Glenn

i've never even heard of the parts.

I'm not real optimistic about a home made hub holding together at high speeds.

 

[G Winter]

I made a statement that wasn't fully true . Back in the early 50s ball bearings were used then somewhere around 60 give or take a couple yrs they went to the tapered bearing that used needles. The last unit,( hub with bearings installed like just about all the front wheel drive cars have used since some time in the 80s ) that I saw come apart had ball bearings in them.

Glenn

 

[TedC]

I disagree with a good GM bearing going 100K, I have a LR wheel bearing with a little play in it. Not much, but it is there. All others are still good however at 54K. Any recommendations as far as brand? Obviously, AcDelco=Pricey, I have heard that Timken is ok, some of there stuff made in Chine? Wheel Bearings Inc. supposedly is all USA made stuff and reasonably priced.

You get what you pay for, however, if one can get a good product at a reasonable price, well duh...

I put some cheapies on for buddy of mine, his car is nothing but a DD and he got it really cheap. His car doesn't see drag strip launches they way mine does either.

My rear bearings that were original GM bearings had play with 55,000 miles when I purchased the vette. I would bet it started well before that. I first ordered Timken's and ended up telling AZ to keep them because it said made in china on the box and they were selling at a made in the USA price. I ordered no name rear hubs on ebay and the box and the hubs looked exactly like that from AZ. Part number and date stamps in the identical locations. They installed perfectly, with zero play, and still have zero play after a year. What impressed me most is how handling improved with the new bearing. My local vette shop said to forget what the GM manual states on tolerances and replace at the first sign of any play.

 

[captainrags]

I used be be a mechanic back in the 50/60’s we repaired things then, So regarding the wheel bearing issue that I haven’t really looked at so just for communications sake I know that tapered bearings usually used back then, on front and sometimes rears required repacking but during the process you could inspect the actual case hardening and see if the bearings need to be replaced if they were pitted. In this instance they appear to be sealed ball bearings however are the actual bearings inserted into a aluminum casing eg wheel hub?
If inserted they would more that likely be pressed in, therefore my main question is why can’t the old loose or slack ball bearing be pressed out and a new one pressed in therefore doing a repair not a complete replacement of the entire hub assembly it has to be cheaper???

 

[G Winter]

I used be be a mechanic back in the 50/60’s we repaired things then, So regarding the wheel bearing issue that I haven’t really looked at so just for communications sake I know that tapered bearings usually used back then, on front and sometimes rears required repacking but during the process you could inspect the actual case hardening and see if the bearings need to be replaced if they were pitted. In this instance they appear to be sealed ball bearings however are the actual bearings inserted into a aluminum casing eg wheel hub?
If inserted they would more that likely be pressed in, therefore my main question is why can’t the old loose or slack ball bearing be pressed out and a new one pressed in therefore doing a repair not a complete replacement of the entire hub assembly it has to be cheaper???

If you have the right equipment to press them out and in , and the bearings are available , then I see no reason why this couldn't be done. I have actually thought about this often. I would want to inspect the hub very closely after the bearings have been pressed out.Also I think it would be wise to use a cyl retaining compound.


Glenn

 

[boomdriver]

If you have the right equipment to press them out and in , and the bearings are available , then I see no reason why this couldn't be done. I have actually thought about this often. I would want to inspect the hub very closely after the bearings have been pressed out.Also I think it would be wise to use a cyl retaining compound.


Glenn

Because its aluminum its not going to withstand the stress of high pressures on the thin-wall, carrier piece. I was told that they are assembled with a heat process thats not worth attempting outside a foundry.
When a wheel coming off is the result of a bearing coming apart, I still don't "get" why anyone would be willing to risk their life over $100..? Besides, its never been done to the best of my knowledge. No such parts.

The spindle nut on these is not designed to carry the inner bearing race. The only thing the spindle nut actually does, is hold the half-shaft yoke inside the hub/bearing. It has nothing to do with holding the bearing, so when the bearing fails, the wheel comes off.

 

[LT4_UK]

Timkens made where? I'm worried now!

My rear bearings that were original GM bearings had play with 55,000 miles when I purchased the vette. I would bet it started well before that. I first ordered Timken's and ended up telling AZ to keep them because it said made in china on the box and they were selling at a made in the USA price. I ordered no name rear hubs on ebay and the box and the hubs looked exactly like that from AZ. Part number and date stamps in the identical locations. They installed perfectly, with zero play, and still have zero play after a year. What impressed me most is how handling improved with the new bearing. My local vette shop said to forget what the GM manual states on tolerances and replace at the first sign of any play.

I just replaced the rears on my 96 with Timken specifically because it said "Made in the USA" on the box.

I previously had my 2005 Mustang GT dfferential rebuilt with Timkens and that's all friend's have used on their Corvettes / Mustangs.

The way I see it my car is made in the USA and I want as many parts US made as possible.

Hell I'm not even American and I'm a patriot!

 

[TedC]

Regardless of where hubs are made, my recommendation to C4 owners is to check both rear hubs for play every year. Forget the dial indicator, and replace even if you discover a hint of play. Just because the rear hubs are within specs or it passes inspection doesn't mean a thing.

 

[captainrags]

Well if they have been heat shrinked in or on, that’s a different mater, but I used to heat shrink flywheel Ring gears on flywheels back then but with alu it’s a different matter. I purchased this 96 C4with LT4 a month ago and after removing the wheels I found some bad rust on the nut, looking like the car had seen some water damage including some surface corrosion on the dif and gearbox the rear end appears a little loose and some little clunking when first starting to drive away so presumed the uni joints may need replacing and the rear bearings etc. Budget is my main concern so will ponder the issue maybe purchase one hub and see how it all works then go from there