when I first start car it starts then dies.

[Schrade]

This is great stuff, I'm having the same problem.

Exactly what's goin' on? Starts and dies? Anything else?

 

[TonyTM]

Exactly what's goin' on? Starts and dies? Anything else?

Similar to vette 53, start it and it quits right away. After 3 or 4 times it runs. I'm going to try some of the things posted over the weekend and try to figure it out. I don't know how to get the codes although I have the shop manual and was going to try to figure it out.

 

[vette 53]

good luck TonyTM hope it works for you as it did for me..thne you can sit back and enjoy a

 

[Schrade]

Similar to vette 53, start it and it quits right away. After 3 or 4 times it runs. I'm going to try some of the things posted over the weekend and try to figure it out. I don't know how to get the codes although I have the shop manual and was going to try to figure it out.

Codes.

 

[vetteboy86]

There are alot of considerations to take into account. Starting with codes is the best and easiest. Heck, it doesn't even involve getting dirty!!

Start, die, start die, could be maf, could be IAC.

TonyTM, what kind of shop manual do you have? Is it the Factory service manual? I bought one for my 86 from ebay, probably about 50 bucks is what I paid. It is a very good tool.

 

[TonyTM]

There are alot of considerations to take into account. Starting with codes is the best and easiest. Heck, it doesn't even involve getting dirty!!

Start, die, start die, could be maf, could be IAC.

TonyTM, what kind of shop manual do you have? Is it the Factory service manual? I bought one for my 86 from ebay, probably about 50 bucks is what I paid. It is a very good tool.

It is the original red GM shop manual, I bought it along time ago and this is the first time I ever needed it.

 

[vetteboy86]

That is the same one I have. Were you able to look through the troubleshooting section? If memory is correct, they basically have problems listed, than probably causes and solutions. I'm not saying this is the end all, but it is a very good tool, and what all the techs used on our cars when they were relatively new and nobody had much knowledge about our cars.

 

[TonyTM]

Well I changed the plugs first, didn't make a difference. Still trying to figure out how read the codes so I'm going to try changing the MAF sensor and see if that fixes it. Process of illimination I guess. Back to the garage!

 

[vette 53]

did you check for vacuum leaks around the MAF sensor? let me know how it goes,,also might be just wires, and what did the plugs look like when you took them out? if all esle you should get better fuel mileage..

 

[TonyTM]

Figured out the codes....it only flashes a 12. Ordered the MAF sensor. Runs rough, won't take the gas, hope the sensor works.

 

[vette 53]

good luck and let us know,,,

 

[TonyTM]

I'm going to try cleaning the throttle body to.

 

[TonyTM]

Plugs looked great, haven't changed the wires yet but I have them so that's next. With only 18K on the car everything is original so I'm sure a few things need to be changed. I just took the original tires off the car for safety reasons. It has to be more than the wires, the fuel mileage has dropped form 20 mpg to 11 mpg recently.

 

[Schrade]

Figured out the codes....it only flashes a 12. Ordered the MAF sensor. Runs rough, won't take the gas, hope the sensor works.

Hope? I can tell you right now that if you don't have a MAF fault code, a new one is not going to change anything. I really think you're wasting cash with the 'process of illumination' technique...

Plugs looked great, haven't changed the wires yet but I have them so that's next. With only 18K on the car everything is original so I'm sure a few things need to be changed. I just took the original tires off the car for safety reasons. It has to be more than the wires, the fuel mileage has dropped form 20 mpg to 11 mpg recently.

If you're getting 11mpg's, it's running in open loop, fuel delivery max'ed. I'm thinkin' maybe check for codes again. Can you describe how you did your code read?

Does it lope idle when warm?

 

[TonyTM]

Hope? I can tell you right now that if you don't have a MAF fault code, a new one is not going to change anything. I really think you're wasting cash with the 'process of illumination' technique...



If you're getting 11mpg's, it's running in open loop, fuel delivery max'ed. I'm thinkin' maybe check for codes again. Can you describe how you did your code read?

Does it lope idle when warm?

I jumped the A/B terminals on the ALCL connector, the only code that came up was 12. The Chev dealer told me the same thing about not having a MAP fault code, so I'm not going to waste the money. What do you mean by lope idel?

 

[vetteboy86]

Is the idle steady, constant RPM. Or does it search around changing RPM's?

 

[TonyTM]

Searching, won't idle smooth

 

[vetteboy86]

Have you made any new discoveries about your issue?

 

[Schrade]

Searching, won't idle smooth

Vacuum leak. Do the following test TO THE LETTER, (after it has fully warmed up, and begun to lope idle)...

No one got the proper technique for vacuum leak detection... :confused

FIRST; block the pedal, or block the throttle linkage. YOU HAVE TO DO THIS TO GET A STEADY IDLE , around 1,250 rpms, or a little higher. If you don't, you can fish a propane hose, or WD40, or Krylon, or hair spray, or pee, anything, until you need a sweater in Hades, but if the motor is lopin' already from a vacuum leak, you ain't gonna' find any vacuum leak, unless it's so big that Little Jack Horner can stick his thumb in it and pull out a pineapple NOPE.

AFTER you get a steady idle, THEN, you can spray starting fluid everywhere - that's the best detector, because it's vapor pressure is very high - a LITTLE at a time, until you get the SURGE. Follow the vacuum lines to the EVAP cannister too. You might even have to follow the EVAP lines from the EVAP cannister to the gas tank too, but that vac leak will show up as a DTC 32 EGR fault, and won't normally show as loping idle, unless the EVAP cannister has been by-passed (been there, saw that uh-huh).

If you get a surge in a tight spot, and can't tell exactly where it is, light a book of matches, blow out the match heads while they're still burnin', and feed the smoke to the tight spot.

Fear not the starting fluid; you cannot put the can down fast enough and light the matches fast enough to catch the starting fluid, because the vapor pressure is so high.

Bookmark this post YUP.

Wrench Wizard OUT!

 

[TonyTM]

Have you made any new discoveries about your issue?

Haven't figured it out yet, but Schrade just posted something I'm going to try. Maybe I can track down a vacum leak. I let you know how it works out. Thank you