Question: Worth the money to restore?????

[Pudge]

Engine block code

Yea, I guess the F just means Flint where it was made. There is a good deal of rust etc on the pad and it does look like there may be a "2" after the FI so maybe the FI is really a F12...... I will have to go back an dig deeper to try to clean the pad and get the other numbers. I don't want to use a wire brush but may have to. I tried WD40 and a toothbrush so far. Unfortunately probably can't get back to the car until next week sometime. Thanks for the help.

 

[Tom Bryant]

I think you are on the right trail now. You might try some fine emery cloth on something flat like a steel rule. Just make a couple light swipes at a time to remove rust and highlight the high spots on the pad. I've done this to clean old pads before with good results.

Tom

 

[Pudge]

More engine pad info

Tried to get more of the engine pad stamp and it may be this: 3106456 FI23IRE
The RE are not conclusive, nor is the letter just before the RE. I tried scrubbing like crazy with a toothbrush and WD40 and an engine degreaser. Afraid to scrap with anything metal because I don't want to ruin anything.

Any other ideas to get the stamp to come out better? Thanks in advance.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

That's exactly what would be seen on an original factory pad. I'd stop scrubbing and leave well enough alone. Maybe take a nice close up photo and post it here?

Car S/N 06456 was built somewhere around Jan 9 1963, so the engine date of Dec 31 works well.

 

[haganml]

Not recommended

Tried to get more of the engine pad stamp and it may be this: 3106456 FI23IRE
The RE are not conclusive, nor is the letter just before the RE. I tried scrubbing like crazy with a toothbrush and WD40 and an engine degreaser. Afraid to scrap with anything metal because I don't want to ruin anything.

Any other ideas to get the stamp to come out better? Thanks in advance.

I do know the police will use acid to bring up obscured of purposely mangled numbers. I do not recommend anything stronger than penetrating oil. It is what it is. If you haven't been to the GM Heritage site it may answer some of your questions. GM Heritage Center Archive | Free Vehicle Information Kit Downloads Click on corvette, agree to the rules and select your year and you will be at the page for your year corvette.

 

[haganml]

I do know the police will use acid to bring up obscured of purposely mangled numbers. I do not recommend anything stronger than penetrating oil. It is what it is. If you haven't been to the GM Heritage site it may answer some of your questions. GM Heritage Center Archive | Free Vehicle Information Kit Downloads Click on corvette, agree to the rules and select your year and you will be at the page for your year corvette.

Sorry it should read "obscured OR purposefully". The RE on that number records as a L76 327cid 340hp, m/t, high lift mechanical lifter cam, large 4 barrel carburetor engine with 11.25:1 compression ratio. The red line on the tachometer should be 6000 to 6200 RPM. F = Flint (manufacturing plant), 12 = December, 31 = 31st day. 3106456 is the last digits of the vehicle identification number (VIN). If those agree with the actual VIN on the plate behind the glove box, you have the original engine. Worth the time and money to restore. Very valuable, 63 split window coupe with original engine. Great starting point.

I just wish I had the original engine for my 65 coupe

 

[my 58]

If you're just looking for a ballpark number I can tell you I just spent $78k for my 58 resto mod and still need a few grand worth of stuff. Mine was probably in a little worse shape than yours but be prepared to spend some serious cash. In your case you will get it all back and then some at least.

 

[vigman]

Restoration & bucks

1st... Get the paper straight, nothing worse the finding out you do not have the papers to get the pink in your name....

2nd Do you have a garage to store all this stuff?.. Sort it all out & clean it up....

3rd If you have no mechanical skills ( or are old & lazy like me ) this will be costly....just to get it running as is.... 6~8K minimum...
it will chew at your wallet.. and as stated before 63 has a lot of one off parts... EG gauge cluster & clock...

4th ) Good news, most everything is serviceable, parts are available... but the more " correct " you make the car... the more it will cost.
a 63 split is VERY RARE... compared to a base 65 coupe...So if you sell it outright as is ... it will be worth some coin... ( if you have the pink )

5th) To date I have spent 35K to get my 64 vert ( non matching number car ) in ALMOST daily driver condition... I have done 30% of the work myself..
the rest I have sent out. I have had to put a new front clip, headlight motors, clutch, rebuild the braking system, new gauge cluster, new wiring harness new rag top.. and WAY WAY more to go... but today I can jump in it and drive it around the block with no fear...

6th ) Read read read... get the shop manuals so even your not going to do the work, you can get a feel of what it takes to do the work...

Lastly, make lists, set goals, have a direction.....If it was my car I would start with getting the engine running....which would entail, oil change, getting an oil primer tool ( that goes in place of the distbutor ) and uses a cordless drill to spin a LONG shaft to turn the oil pump and circulate fresh oil into the crank & cam.... pouring oil ( atf ) down the cylinder walls and spinning the engine over by hand ( breaker bar on crank ) ... if the engine turns FREELY...
then a compression test would be in order....

The fuel system would have to be drained prior to all this, tank flushed ( or replaced if rusty ) all rubber lines replaced... and probably the fuel pump replaced as well....

Mike