Question: Worth the money to restore?????

[catbert]

Sounds lile my friend and his 72. A crate motor and modern transmission is the way to start a driver quality classic. All the modern replacement pieces, paint and trim are only a wallet away. Going the restomod route with "modern suspension and all the bells and whistles is a lot of work and pretty pricey. You can start with a driver, and work your way up if you feel the need. A fun dilemma.

 

[KANE]

Call me a dork... but I've found taking thoughts to paper helpful.


Writing out what the strong points are for the car as it stands (current state)... issues (current state)... opportunities to improve (future state)... and things that could really drain you (future state).

Put each of those in a quadrant. Then, take a look at what seems to come out.



What stands out? Originality? Is there a clear vision or direction of what SHOULD be in your mind?


Regardless- it'll turn out great. It will be whatever it is supposed to be.

Just my $.02

 

[Huskerman]

So many choices....that is the car of many a man's dream to find and restore. If it is unique in any way other then the fact it is a split window 63 and it has the original block and tranny it would be more then worth it restoring it NCRS standards in my book. A lot will depend on what history and documentation you can find on the car. You have had it how long........?

It would cost a lot but it would be worth a lot.......the problem with that is you can get worried about taking baby out for a spin since its worth so much.....I think it would bring pretty good money just the way it sets and then you can go get a newer Corvette daily driver.......so many choices...good luck with it.

 

[GerryLP]

Yea, I realize that and am actually willing to put a good chunk of change into it. Just trying to get an idea about it being 15K or 30k or more. I also will try to get the block number and trim info next time I see it. No interest in making it a show queen. Want to be able to drive it a bit here and there is all.

Pudge,

I would think that the engine block numbers would be more important than the intake. Once you find the block vin / designation number, then the right intake can be found.

I think it is worth bringing back to life in either form, restoration or restomod. Daily or weekend driver. A vehicle with 30 years of history with you has to be surely worth it.

GerryLP :cool

 

[Pudge]

Got some Trim info

Pudge,

I would think that the engine block numbers would be more important than the intake. Once you find the block vin / designation number, then the right intake can be found.

I think it is worth bringing back to life in either form, restoration or restomod. Daily or weekend driver. A vehicle with 30 years of history with you has to be surely worth it.

GerryLP :cool

Truth be told, my history with it is very complicated and only for the knowledge that it has been sitting in my wife's fathers garage since the early 80's. It kind of came with the wife, who bought it from her Uncle. I have no documentation, other than old registration forms from the mid 70's. Tried to see if it was registered in my wife's name today and apparently there is some hold on it so need to go to DMV to settle up.

I've got the trim info:
E2
style =63 837
trim = blk
body = 3494
paint = 923A
Engine block = 3782870
I have another intake, as mentioned, with number 3794129

If I had to guess, the tranny is the same as the block but no ida where the tranny number is. Someone did some switching as they put a Hurst shifter in (but I do have the original) so if they really went crazy, maybe they did change the tranny. I hope not.

 

[JohnZ]

I've got the trim info:
E2
style =63 837
trim = blk
body = 3494
paint = 923A
Engine block = 3782870
I have another intake, as mentioned, with number 3794129

If I had to guess, the tranny is the same as the block but no ida where the tranny number is. Someone did some switching as they put a Hurst shifter in (but I do have the original) so if they really went crazy, maybe they did change the tranny. I hope not.

The numbers say it's a '63 coupe, built the second week of January, 1963, Riverside Red exterior with a black vinyl interior. 3782870 is the correct block casting number (used in all '63-'65 Corvettes), and the raised block casting date code will be found on the rear flange of the block about six inches toward the passenger side from the distributor (letter followed by two or three numbers). What's stamped on the machined surface on the portion of the block just forward of the front of the passenger side cylinder head? That will tell where the engine came from and its original horsepower rating.

The 3794129 intake was used on very late '62 and all '63 Corvette 327/340hp engines.

The car should have a Borg-Warner T-10 4-speed transmission with a T10D-1 main case, T10-7D tailhousing, and T10-148B side cover. The Borg-Warner assembly date code (5 digits, starting with a "W") is stamped on the machined surface on the driver's side of the main case adjacent to the upper rear corner side cover bolt.

 

[Pudge]

Engine code

So I looked for the engine code. Either looked in the wrong spot or have my doubts it is there. Here is a photo of where I thought it would be. Maybe I just need to clean the flat surface off to see what is there. In the photo shouldn't the numbers be on that flat surface where the letter "B" in the word Block is?

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

That's exactly where it should be. If it's blank most likely the block has been 'decked' during an overhaul which would have removed the info.

 

[Pudge]

That's exactly where it should be. If it's blank most likely the block has been 'decked' during an overhaul which would have removed the info.

I am going to have to go look again. But what does "decked" mean? Never heard of that.

 

[haganml]

Trials and bureaucracy.

"Truth be told, my history with it is very complicated and only for the knowledge that it has been sitting in my wife's fathers garage since the early 80's. It kind of came with the wife, who bought it from her Uncle. I have no documentation, other than old registration forms from the mid 70's. Tried to see if it was registered in my wife's name today and apparently there is some hold on it so need to go to DMV to settle up."

If this car is like mine the DMV hasn't seen the car in more than 10 years, it doesn't exist for them as a vehicle. You will need to have the vehicle inspected at the DVM or have a law enforcement officer verify that the Vehicle Identification Number on the paperwork and the body match and it is a real vehicle. You can get the forms off the internet. A trip or three to the DMV is still necessary. I am such a fan of bureaucracy. We have to keep all those civil servants busy.

 

[haganml]

Cubic Money

Sounds lile my friend and his 72. A crate motor and modern transmission is the way to start a driver quality classic. All the modern replacement pieces, paint and trim are only a wallet away. Going the restomod route with "modern suspension and all the bells and whistles is a lot of work and pretty pricey. You can start with a driver, and work your way up if you feel the need. A fun dilemma.

That is the idea, crate motor and 4 speed (have a new 5 speed in a box that I may use). Run around in my mid-life crisis for a while and enjoy the wind. All I need is cubic money.

 

[haganml]

elbow grease

So I looked for the engine code. Either looked in the wrong spot or have my doubts it is there. Here is a photo of where I thought it would be. Maybe I just need to clean the flat surface off to see what is there. In the photo shouldn't the numbers be on that flat surface where the letter "B" in the word Block is?
View attachment 9881

A squirt of WD40 and a little elbow grease with an old toothbrush should allow you to read the number, if there is no number it is a replacement engine that wasn't stamped.

Go to the GM Heritage center <www.gmheritagecenter.com> (delete brackets) for a list of the numbers on your car. At the home page click on "corvette" and agree to the terms then click on the year of your corvette.

 

[haganml]

Shaving the block

I am going to have to go look again. But what does "decked" mean? Never heard of that.

A machine shop will machine the cylinder block with a milling machine to correct imperfections ( warpage due to overheating, rust ) known by several names, "decking" "shaving" are just two. If the block is machined the intake manifold must also have some material removed for it to fit correctly.

GM replacement engines do not have any numbers stamped into them, the installer is required to stamp the engine. Some times the numbers do not get on the blocks.

Sometimes I have scraped the machined number boss with a single edged razor blade to bring up the number.

I have heard rumors that some people will machine the blocks and re-stamp them to match up with the vehicle. I have an engine block where a individual has ground off the numbers with a die grinder. The casting numbers match my 65 coupe and the date is correct (but why have the numbers been ground off? It bothers me)

 

[Pudge]

A squirt of WD40 and a little elbow grease with an old toothbrush should allow you to read the number, if there is no number it is a replacement engine that wasn't stamped.

Go to the GM Heritage center <www.gmheritagecenter.com> (delete brackets) for a list of the numbers on your car. At the home page click on "corvette" and agree to the terms then click on the year of your corvette.

Thanks very much. I will do that. I am going back to the car tonight to see if i can see numbers.

 

[Tom Bryant]

Just a reminder that this stamping is being discussed in your other thread . Talking about the same thing in 2 places will get confusing in short order. I would suggest anyone wanting to respond to the engine stamping question follow the link (underscored "other thread" above) to the block stamping thread so your comment isn't missed.

Tom

 

[Pudge]

Just a reminder that this stamping is being discussed in your other thread . Talking about the same thing in 2 places will get confusing in short order. I would suggest anyone wanting to respond to the engine stamping question follow the link (underscored "other thread" above) to the block stamping thread so your comment isn't missed.

Tom

Hi Tom, yea, sorry about that. If you want, you can delete that other thread, or I can. Did not mean to cause confusion.

 

[Evolution1980]

I...am actually willing to put a good chunk of change into it. Just trying to get an idea about it being 15K or 30k or more. I also will try to get the block number and trim info next time I see it. No interest in making it a show queen. Want to be able to drive it a bit here and there is all.

Something else to consider in the "versus" chart.
Since you aren't turning your own wrench, there's a very good chance that you'll definitely be spending more money than time on this car.
The question I always pose to people is this: Since you aren't turning your own wrench, and given the amount of money you expect to spend *chuckles*, could you just buy a nice '63 driver with that money and be done with it? You could sell this existing car as a very respectable rebuilder for someone that has the time, knowledge, and money, and then put the money from the sale towards a ready-to-go driver.
It can be frustrating to see all your money going to a shop and having the car spend most of it's time there as well. Depending on how much time you are expecting to spend, it still could be another few years before you are able to spend an entire day driving it and not thinking about the next part to be fixed/updated.
However much money you expect to spend, multiply that by 1.5 as your actual realistic number. 10K becomes 15K, 30 becomes 45...

And on to a different topic... always focus on the safety features of the car first: Brakes & steering/suspension.

 

[Pudge]

Engine block stamp

Was able to get the engine block stamp; 3106456 FI

Matches the VIN but was expecting to see RE. I assume FI is Fuel Injection (327 CID/360 hp) but the intake manifold on the car and as a spare (see very first post) sure don't look ready for fuel injection. Obviously the previous owners did some things to it.

 

[Pudge]

Something else to consider in the "versus" chart.
Since you aren't turning your own wrench, there's a very good chance that you'll definitely be spending more money than time on this car.
The question I always pose to people is this: Since you aren't turning your own wrench, and given the amount of money you expect to spend *chuckles*, could you just buy a nice '63 driver with that money and be done with it? You could sell this existing car as a very respectable rebuilder for someone that has the time, knowledge, and money, and then put the money from the sale towards a ready-to-go driver.
It can be frustrating to see all your money going to a shop and having the car spend most of it's time there as well. Depending on how much time you are expecting to spend, it still could be another few years before you are able to spend an entire day driving it and not thinking about the next part to be fixed/updated.
However much money you expect to spend, multiply that by 1.5 as your actual realistic number. 10K becomes 15K, 30 becomes 45...

And on to a different topic... always focus on the safety features of the car first: Brakes & steering/suspension.

Evo - Thanks for the input. Good points for sure. I've thought about that aspect of it for sure and once I figure more out it may come to that but the car has been ion my wife's family since the early 70's I believe so it would be kind of neat to see it run again.

 

[Tom Bryant]

I merged the 2 threads together and left a redirect in the old location. Now everyone will come here to post on this topic.

That's good that you were able to bring up the vin dirivitive on the pad. Don't know why it has a FI after it but that is not the engine code. Your engine code should be stamped above the vin, usually in larger font, and start with a F followed by a 3 or 5 digit number for the date of manufacture. The first number(s) 1 thru 12 for the month and the second 2 numbers (01 thru 31) for the day. This will be followed by the engine code suffix. In your case you are looking for a RE for a 340 horse. Here's a made up example using Feb 1st.

F201RE

Maybe John can shed some light on why there is a FI on the pad. The only Chevy engine codes I can find that start with a F are from the 1956-1958 area and none with FI.

Tom