WOW! Big performance gain!!!

[Zektor]

Twinnie,
Now you've gone and done it... now I've got a thirst for more power. Ok, I want to fit this camshaft to my car!!!!

I really need to replace the lifters as well... yes?

To do this, I need to take the intake off. Shouldn't be a problem.

With the extra lift this camshaft makes... will I need to get "cut outs" done in the pistons to make clearance for the valves or will the cam go in without any changes to bottom end?

Can I keep my Roller Rockers?

Give me the full lowdown of what I can expect running a cam like this... performance, fuel consumption, idle etc.

By the way, I live in the UK and emissions laws are not very tight. You can basically drive more or less what you like... the older your car the less tight the law is.

Cheers
Dazza

 

[Twin_Turbo]

do you have 1,6 or 1,6 rockers? They should be fine, no problem. You can go to .500 lift with conical springs that fit the stock head spring pad. If you have 1,6 rockers take that into consideration! multiply the lift by 1,06666666666666666666666666666666666666 to get the real lift w/ the 1,6 rockers. 2030 or even 2040 (bit more aggressive, 2030 would perhaps be better choice w/ close to stock setup) should be fine with the 1,6 rockers.
The stock pistons are forged 464664 TRW L82 pistons w/ one single 3cc valve relief. They will clear those cams, no problem.

Fuel consumption will go up a bit, but you didn't buy this car for fuel economy right Power will increase significantly. Idle will be nice and steady, probably better than what it is now if the stock cam is worn.

If it were me (and I don't have to worry about emissions, clean idle & such) I'd slap in a 220@.050 ~278 seat duration cam 110LCA (lopey!), it'll probably have a 106/114 ICL/ECL (most cam grinders grind in 4 deg. advance) because it has to be cheap and off the shelf, accompanied by some 58cc L98 alu D-port heads to up the compression (you can run a longer duration w/higher comp. without losing a lot of cylinder pressure down low)

Go to http://www.crossfire.homeip.net , there are a lot of other enthousiasts there and quite a number of them have the 2030 cam.

Marck

 

[Zektor]

Twinnie,
I have Comp Cams 1.52 ratio roller rockers (#1417-16).

Incidentally, I can get hold of Comp Cams camshafts over in the UK far easier than Crane Cams products.

Do you know what the equivelant Comp Cams camshaft is compared to the compucam 2030?

Cheers
Dazza

 

[Twin_Turbo]

The details of the cam are on the cam card.

The compucam 2030 is now known as the powermax 2030 and the part # is 254122

http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=254122&B1=Display+Card

As you can see, it's a 264/274 seat duration grind with .423 lift using 1,5 rocker duration @.050 is 204/214

The max lifts are the lobe centerlines, being 105ICL/113ECL.

Marck

 

[mmvette80]

Zector, cam change is worth every last cent!

 

[cruzer99]

I would also suggest new cam bearings if you put in a new cam as well......

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Cam bearings are really simple in metallurgy, nothing fancy like the modern triple layer bearings for the crank/rods.

If the cam bearings look fine you can use them, the crank only turbs at 1/2 the speed of the crank and the load on it is much less. The only reason to replace the cam beatings is on a full strip down, when you have to clean all the oil passages (can't clean out the passages behind the cam bearins w/ the bearings still in the block). Changing cam bearings can't be done without the proper tools, you'll need to have feel for it and the block needs to be stripped down.

I say stick in the new cam, use a good degree wheel to dial the thing in, check all the rocker's geometry and that's it.

Marck

 

[JHL]

Zektor

If you really want to use the Crane cam and can`t get it over here just give Summit or Jegs a ring and get it sent over. I have used both and had no problem with either. Jegs sent some parts in two days delivered right to my desk here in Newcastle. Even paying the airfreight was only $40 extra.

For some reason Crane is out of favour here but you could try Peter Cooper in Pickering, I got my Crane roller rockers, guide plates and pushrods from him, I dont have his number handy but he advertises in most of the magazines.

Replacing the cam in the car is reasonably straight forward once you get at it and you should fit new lifters at the same time. I can`t imagine you will have any clearance problems with the cams discussed, the RPM cam I was running had about 498/510 lift and was in with flat top piston without any problem but you should as a matter of coarse check to be sure before you fire it up. The only problem I had the first time was when I replaced the timing cover I bent it on the sump, the second time I loosened the sump bolts and dropped it down then fitted the new timing cover without any problem.

Good Luck
J.

 

[Zektor]

JHL,
Cheers for the info... that's really helpfull. I will give them a call sometime in February, got to get over the Christmas expense!!!

Twinnie,
My engine was fully rebuilt just 6000 miles ago, and it had brand new cam bearings fitted throughout... in fact, it had a new stock cam, lifters, chain etc at the same time. So really, it's an ideal candidate for a cam swap. At the time of the rebuild it didn't have any other performance mods so it was not deemed neccessary to fit a better cam etc.

It was only after the rebuild (and running in, of course) that I felt that the car does not deliver the performance that I thought it would. At this time, I feel that the car is now giving the performance it should of had in the first place...

A camshaft to compliment the current mods seems like a good next step.

But, I've also been thinking about other mods...

I see that a March Power Pulley can give upto another 20 bhp (yeah, right!). Are these any good? And if so, how much power do they really give... also, don't forget that I only have 3 items running off the crank rather than the normal 5!!!!

The fan itself, I don't want to replace the fan for an electric fan kit because I like the temprature it keeps my engine at (all year round)... But, will a lighter aluminium fan make a difference?

Plus, whilst we are at it. When the car is cold with the engine not running. If I spin the fan, it does not spin freely... it feels like it's binding. I'm not sure if this is right? What's everybody else's fan do... spin freely... or bind?

Cheers
Dazza

 

[Twin_Turbo]

You sure it's the stock cam? I don't think it's available anymore, could be wrong though.

If you get a new cam, dump the nylon coated sprockets and the stock chain, get a cloyes setup.

Do not waste money on the march stuff, it may sound like a nice deal but it isn't. The puylleys can cause your accessories to turn slow, one thing often caused is low or no charging at idle w/ the Gen light coming on. What are youy running crank-waterpump-ps pump ???

The fan is a real waste of power and it'll make the engine run rough. I have an early C4 fan on the stock shroud, it's almost a direct fit. You only have to trim the ears of the C4 fan. I ran the fan from a temp switch located in the thermostat (I used a FIAT switch but you can get a GM switch if you want, even the thermostat drilled for the sender as used in older carbed cars w/ EGR/EFE vac switches there) I retained the stock auxiliary fan.

The stock fan never freewheels but it has a visco clutch. If the temps get higher the viscous fluid gets thicker and the fan will have less slippage.

aux fan:

early c4 fan:

It did a nice job at cooling the L83, even in modded form. I'm gonna dump this stuff because it'll never successfully cool the new engine. I'm probbly going for twin spals.

Marck

 

[JHL]

Zektor

I run my car with no mechanical fan and have the original electric fan hooked up to a switch inside and it works ok for me with no overheating problems I only need to use it in traffic or if I`m sitting at the lights. I have also been having a look at and electric water pump which would only leave the power steering and alternator to worry about.

J.

 

[GerryLP]

JHL,

Is your car's hood (or should I say bonet ?) a Stinger model without the air scoop?

 

[page62]

One more question on those rocker arms:

I looked up these rockers in my Summit Racing catalog. It indicates the difference between the 1412-16 and 1417-16 rockers is the 1417-16 units are for centrebolt valve covers. Does the '82 have centrebolt covers? Is there any other difference between the two?

I guess what I'm trying to figure out here is what would work in my '79...

 

[Zektor]

Page62,
I'm not sure what centrebolt valve covers are? Does it mean that the bolt goes through the top of the valve cover itself?

If it does, then no, the 1982 has 2 small bolts either side of the valve cover. 2 near the intake, 2 near the headers.

I've seen (up close and personal!) both the 1412-16's and the 1417-16's. Both sets are absolutely identical... apart from the 1417-16's have little washers either side of the roller to stop the rocker from "walking" off the top of the valve stem... 1417-16's are the ones you are supposed to use if your car does not have guide plates. If your car does have guide plates... then you can use 1412-16's instead.

Looking at both of these rocker types. I can't see any reason why using centrebolt or sidebolt rockers would make any difference! They are virtually identical!

Don't forget to replace your pushrods as well... if you have guide plates you need the hardened material pushrods (a little more expensive). If your car does not have quide plates you can buy stock unhardened material pushrods (cheaper!).

Does anybody else know if the '79 uses guide plates or not?

Cheers
Dazza

 

[mmvette80]

79's dont have giude plates unless previous owner put them in. The centerbolt valve covers first came on the C4. 4 bolts front to rear center of the valve cover.

 

[JHL]

Gerry

As far as I am aware it is the original "bonnet" . I had to cut the hole in it because it wouldn`t shut after I was finished rebuilding the engine.

:L :L :L

J.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

One more question on those rocker arms:

I looked up these rockers in my Summit Racing catalog. It indicates the difference between the 1412-16 and 1417-16 rockers is the 1417-16 units are for centrebolt valve covers. Does the '82 have centrebolt covers? Is there any other difference between the two?

I guess what I'm trying to figure out here is what would work in my '79...

If it was specific for center or flange bolt you have been looking at rocker coverrs, not rocker arms. Rocker arms only come in different stuf sizes, different ratio's and self aligning or not. The 1,6 small block stuf self aligning rocker will work for you (since you don't have guide plates)

Marck

 

[page62]

Two more questions:

What's the difference between 1.5 and 1.6 rockers?

What's the best technique for adjusting valves? (I used to do it on my Beetle, but I know this is VERY different...)

 

[Twin_Turbo]

1,5 ratio rockers pish the valve down in a ratio of 1,5 :1 as opposed to the lifter/pushrod. So if the lifter rises 0,5" the valve is pressed down 1,5X0,5" the 1,6 rocker has the pushrod hole closer to the pivot point and therefore it presses down the valve further (1,6x0,5" for the example)

 

[page62]

OK, now I understand that. But is it OK to use 1.6 rockers in a stock L82 engine, or are there problems (ie., why did Zektor only use 1.5 rockers?)