Open loop.

[bradfordsvettes]

there is an interface module for some setups and there are adapters ,you may need to use a tech1 . I could hook you up but georgia would be a hall I would check the resistance that would be a good start and remove any doubt about the electrical properties of the injectors Steve

 

[Paul Higg]

Okay, I will try to find the resistance values in the FSM but you know how tedious that can be looking. Boston huh? I am originally from East Boston. I have been here 19 years. I grew up there.

 

[bradfordsvettes]

more south towards the cape . 10 to 16 is pretty much the range take the values and post them or send me a pm i can tell you if they are ok or not Steve

 

[Paul Higg]

Okay, thanks Steve.

Paul

My uncle lives in Centerville.

 

[Paul Higg]

Steve, I ohmed out the injectors. Every single one of them measure 12.0 ohms. The TPS however was reading .84 so I adjusted it to read .5. Now, I still haven't test driven it yet. I will tomorrow as my wife and I have a lot of shopping to do. But the WORST news is I have an oil leak. I had it jacked to changed the oil and filter and I saw the leak. It is leaking right at the forward edge of the drip pan. I do not have the time or inclination to do it. We do not have another car. So my Vette mechanic at Corvette Country (ONLY Vettes) said it will cost a total of $264. I have a call in to Junk to see what he would charge as we do not live too far from each other.

Paul

Oh yeah, I didn't disconnect the O2 sensor yet as I wanted to test drive it and see if the TPS might be causing it.

 

[Steve40th]

I had been fighting via tuning, an idle problem. Basically I thought due to my camshaft (xe 230/236) it was just causing reversion and my LT1 just wouldnt idle till warm. Also, people reading my logs were saying you have an exhaust leak or a vacuum leak. I chased that forever. So, I wasnt able to run AC in gear at idle, and warm ups were a little tearful due to richness burning my eyes.
According to Data logging, the IAC was working. Wrong, the PCM was working telling the IAC what do do, but it wasnt.
So, I was looking at open loop tune etc for the idle which allot of people do with larger cams.
But I came across this little photo.
http://shbox.com/1/iac2.jpg
Never thought the IAC was bad per sey, because I was expecting a code, which now I know there is none for IAC in the FSM. Just a resistance check. Well I checked mine, A to B was bad. Bought a new one and WOW it idles on its own immediately, and even allows AC in gear (Kinda lopey, but the IAC is doing what it can to help idle).
So, lessons learned here guys. Just because you dont have a code, doesnt mean you dont have a problem. GM DOES NOT HAVE CHECK ENGINE CODE FOR THE IAC, and this caused me a long of money and time,

 

[Paul Higg]

That's interesting Steve. I don't have any of those problems. I spoke with Junk last night and he told me all his C4's and C5's do that what mine is doing when the engine is cold. He said he lets his cars warm up for five minutes before driving. I cannot find any problems except for a new oil leak at the oil pan. Not THAT is going to be a lot of work to put in a new rubber seal. I tried to tighten the bolts but they were so tight I couldn't get a 1000th of a turn out of 'em.

 

[So Bay Vetter]

I spoke with Junk last night and he told me all his C4's and C5's do that what mine is doing when the engine is cold. He said he lets his cars warm up for five minutes before driving.

Glad Junk mentioned that. I've always let her heat to at least 100 before driving, even in So Cal. But I felt stupid suggesting it. I feel better now!:L
"Doc!, it hurts when I do this . . . well then, don't do it!" I guess it works on Vettes too!:L

 

[Paul Higg]

Yup, Junk is the MAN! Now that I have let it warm up, all is right with the world.

Paul