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First, try setting the idle a little higher for now while you check things. Check for vacuum leaks. Take a peice of vacuum hose. Put one end in your ear and hold the other close to areas where there may be a leak, pay particular attention to the carb. Here is a stupid thought: I once...

I agree, but I do use the Haynes manual also. It is pretty user friendly for basic stuff, but the GM manual is THE one to have. God bless, Sensei

Photo?

Check and clean the coolant sensor connection. I recommend this stuff for all electrical connections: http://cgi.ebay.com/Caig-Deoxit-Conductivity-Spray-Awesome-NEW-DP5S-6_W0QQitemZ180253175038QQihZ008QQcategoryZ46537QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem If that does not do it, then clean...

What codes are you getting? God bless, Sensei

The stock secondary rods were CH. Edelbrock makes replacements: PN 1952 (CK). A good bit richer than stock PN 1951 (CE). A bit richer still. This is what I use with my modified engine. PN 1950 (CC). Stupid rich If you are using an open air filter element, the thin, hot under hood air...

You can remove it, but you get no benefit except visual clean up, and you will have hot start problems (vapor lock) :_rock Right on! God bless, Sensei

The duct work is ugly but it really is good performance wise. I'd keep it! God bless, Sensei

Yoda is Correct. Also, do yourself a BIG favor and spend the extra money for the OEM latex. The cheaper stuff is worthless, it will never seal. God bless, Sensei

I know NAPA's are made by Spicer, but they have grease zirks. The Brute Force ones you can get at Autozone are solid Spicer type joints that I have had no problems with so far. God bless, Sensei

With the computer and carb, you must have an O2 sensor! Put it on the long tube header just after the primary pipes come together. God bless, Sensei

Yea, when I took it off, I stored it in a box. Then my wife took it to a rental storage building and re-stored it!:D

I used shorty headers and put them just just after the collector, but a lot of people put them right on the header when using long tubes. I think you can even order them that way. Chuck it all! Take off the pump, brackets, plumbing, everything (including the cat); no problems. God bless, Sensei

Trash the A.I.R. Don't worry about the heat riser. Keep the O2 sensor! I did a rebuild that was probably similar to yours, perhaps going a little farther. My headers and 2.5" true duals made a more noticable performance difference than the entire rebuild.

First, I'd put on a new air filter. After that try this: Technical Information Bulletin Rev. New 9-19-04 How to Set Up a Q-Jet Choke by Lars Grimsrud Lafayette, CO This tech paper will discuss basic set-up of the Q-Jet automatic choke systems. The procedure outlined here differs from...

Have you looked at section 8 in the GM service manual (electrical trouble shooting)?

Just speculation, but the fiberglass spring improved ride comfort, not handling or performance. The Gymkana suspension had steel springs as did the manual tranny cars. Now I believe you can get performance oriented glass springs, so there should be no problem changing. God bless, Sensei

The TV cable hooks up exactly like the kickdown cable from your TH350C. As a matter of fact, I really felt conned when I bought a TV set up for my 700R4. I used the kickdown cable bracket on the carb instead of taking the carb off to install BTO's bracket. They were the same thing. The only...

Try this: http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/Instructions/TV_101-1.pdf God bless, Sensei

I'm not sure if the Ram Jet will fit under your hood, but there is a lot that can be done to really beef up your L81 for under $5000 (I'm getting in the mid to high 300 HP range for around half of that). The 700r4 is a good choice. Might also look at the 2004r. Check them out at...