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Rack inner tierods, outer tierods and excessive play in the rack preload will let it jerk over ruts. If you replace the rack don't get a cheap rebuild, they only replace the badly worn parts. Last Detail has a Delco rebuilt rack for about $100 more than AutoZone, ect. must be something more done...

If there aren't zerks they are sealed. Some of the info in the manual isn't kept up to date. My 87 has zerks. The tierod ends I put on the front end didn't have them and they were GM replacements. JS

You can get Performance Friction pads with Lifetime warranty from Autozone! They don't make them for the 87 but they worked good on some other cars we put them on. They have the shims on the back and the wear sensors to. JS

You have trashed front rotors. If you don't have 13" brakes on your 88 you can get them from any 94-96 all you need is rotor bracket and caliper. The pads are the same for all 88-96 C4's JS

If the bose sound is OK you can get an adapter and a MP3 CD player and load enough songs you won't have to swap disks from JAX to MIA! That's what I did until mine took a dive. I replaced it with an Alpine with a MP3 player did some minor re-wiring and dumped the Bose amps. JS

Have you checked the for the creak with the hood both up and down? Some of the sound could be comming from parts of tied to the front sub-frame that aren't tight enough. Later cars have some additional bumper and gaskets around the hood. I have seen notes posted about the intake rubbing on the...

That's right seep OK, a drop it's hosed. They will rebuild them for about 1/2 price of new. check their web page. JS

Check the wheel bearings with a dial indicator. That is the only way you can tell if you have more than the .006 in endplay. The shop manual shows how to do it. If they have never been changed they are more than likely loose. Something to do when you are doing the u-joints. Oh, get...

That's a lot for a drill, tap and plug. I used a magnetic drain plug from a trashed outboard lower unit, it was free. The drill and tap we already had. Cost $0.00 JS

I think you might look a little more. Valve guide seals usually won't suck down that much oil. Even at 200k miles and 15yrs all mine do is a puff of smoke 1st thing in the morning. I rarely put a quart in, I'm talking over 2000 miles. JS

Not to be a smart, for that much park it outside or get a piece of cardboard. If you have someone take apart a 15yr old rear end you might as well have it entirely rebuilt or it will be back in the shop in a flash!! My 200K mile 87 leaks a bit but I'm not going to touch it besides changing the...

Last Detail has Delco rebuilt racks for @$225 or so. don't get a cheap rebuild they dont replace anything they dont have to. The stiffness is morning sickness, notorious in 80's GM racks. Takes a Saturday to change one out. The manuals give a decent idea to go by. You need a 18mm wrench to get...

I used a qt bottle of oil and mixed in the posi additive. We drilled a hole in the back of the rear end case and threaded the hole for a magnetic plug now I dont have to try and suck the stuff out. JS

Look at the hunter.com site and find a location with the GSP9700 machine. One more thought, if the tires are balanced and you still can't get rid of the vibration on cars with plenty of age or over 75K miles take a close look at the rear halfshaft u-joints. They will cause a high speed...

I have almost 4yrs and over 20Kmiles on SZ50's. Like everyone says they have great traction, especially in the rain. If you are looking for the tire bargian take a look at Kumho. JS

The sound you describe turned out to be a loose brick in my pre-cat. When you have the car up tap on the side of them with a hammer handle and see if they rattle. If it breaks up it will plug up the main cat. JS

My daily driver 87 has one that came from Pep Boy's. It was less that $50 new. Been on it over 100K miles now. Don't know if is any better or worse than than GM but was cheaper and they had it when we walked in. Temp seem OK on the road. JS

I got a rebuilt one locally and it's been good for 4 yrs now. @$75. JS

If you want to keep the locks see if you can get togther with the local club and find someone with a key that fits. I seem to rememeber somewhere in my car in some of the owners manual or something it tells the code for the key. I would go the socket route an pitch them in the trash. I have all...

No idea about the pan. The battery won't cause a problem. The computer will re-learn everything in the first few mile you drive it. JS