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I purchased a new used spring from a forum member. I was confused because it has 8 leafs versus my 7 leaf that is on the car now. Your post is the first time I have ever read anything about an 8 leaf. I thought the guy had lied by selling me a 9 leaf minus one since I posted that I was looking...

You can have your original spring re-arched. I believe places like Eaton Springs can do this service. I'm in the process of replacing my 7 leaf spring right now.

No way would I do that. I only jack it up from the frame rails. I also place a 2x4 on the jack or jack stands to more evenly distribute the pressure on the frame rails.

I just picked up a clean used one off ebay for $19.50.

I just received my completely rebuilt trailing arms from Van Steel. They are very well known for the quality work and honesty. That's why I went with them. The t-arms look great. It will be much more fun installing the new rebuilts than removing the nasty old ones. Also, I have heard nothing but...

That's why they are called the stealership instead of the dealership :eyerole

Removing the idler arm bolts are a real pain in the ars. You may want to go ahead and change the rear main seal while you are in there. It's not very difficult or time consuming.

I've been thinking about 17" C5 or late model Camaro/T-A wheels for a different look. I'm looking for experience from anyone who has used wheel adpaters. Any problems using them?

You can purchase a product called de-glosser (liquid sandpaper) at any hardware store. It removes the gloss before repainting. I've used it many times as a paint prep. You may want to try it on a small area and see if it removes enough of the gloss to your liking. It just may work and the cost...

Idler arm is on the passenger side...mounts against the frame with 2 bolts. If you have not ever checked it, this would be a good time to check for play in the idler arm. Should not have much movement in the joint. I think my book says 1/4 in or less in any one direction.

If I remember correctly, when I needed to remove the oil pan to replace my rear main seal, I disconnected the idler arm. This allowed me to pull down on the entire steering assembly just enough to gain the clearance necessary to drop the oil pan.

Chrisr, I purchased my vette this way. I talked to the shop that performed the conversion. It was done around 1997 or so, so it could not be the one you saw.

Here is a pic of my 1980 vert...

Check the cowl (area under the windshield wipers) for cracks. Over time this area is known to leak water. I've got cracks out the wazoo that I need to fix. Everytime I wash the car, water leaks onto the floor board.

I bought similar ones off ebay for my 80. The problem is that they are much larger and longer than oem and take up more room. As you are probably aware, there is not much room inside the door. I had mine actually working but decided to buy oem type actuators that will fit better. Because of...

My low fuel light works, yet I don't have the wires to the fuel gauge. I thought the signal for light comes via the printed circuit board???

I would call some of the vette only junk yards. I'm sure one of them probably has one. Be prepared to pay as they are difficult to find. I was able to repair mine with my trusty $5.00 soldering iron.

I think the newest new tank one can purchase is a 1977. Will that fit into a 78-82?

Here is a link that contains the all electrical diagrams for a 1980 corvette. Good Luck! http://iotech.no/corvette/technical/1980_schematics/index.htm

That's exactly how someone fixed my cracks in the cowl area.