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plug The engine ran fine for the last two months since I pulled the plugs and checked them. But what I failed to mention is that this misfire I had, seemed to start after I let er rip. Shifted at 6000 out of third.Hummmmmm! That one plug wasn't loaded up either. Looked the same as the others...

I noticed a slight miss recently on left bank, and when I pulled plugs I noticed #5 plug electrode was bent, just about touching tip. Well, theres cause to problem. But, why was electrode bent? Any idea? Maybe I accidentally dropped that plug while installing, but that was approximately 2 months...

Insurance I have J.C.Taylor for my 64 coupe. $199.00 a year, full coverage, zero deductible. Had a glass claim this year, no cost, no hassle, no problem!

I found an interesting item at www.balancemasters.com that looks interesting. Anybody hear of these driveshaft balancers, or try them? Wondering if they really work.

Is that a pcv valve on your left valve cover? The other end of hose isn,t connected. Have you possibly also have an open vac port on carb or intake?

Hey 67, them the ceramic coated? I have same exhaust except painted, I mean rusted headers. But new is on the way, hopefully by xmas. But what I really wanted to say was Hooker now has their sidemounts in stainless steel. Did you already know that and found out the price on these babys, or not...

Wow, i'm glad I posted a topic that was of good use to many people. Makes me feel good that in a way I helped out. This is the way our country should be run . Oh yeah, thanks Ron! .

Corvette central, Corvette America, Corvette World, They all have em.

Thanks for comeback everyone. Ron, I sent you e-mail.

Anyone know the procedure for replacing aluminum face on a glovebox door, 64 coupe, Thanks.

Hey JohnZ, does it matter if pcv valve is on right side. I also have a 68 block in my 64, and have valve on right side. I don,t think it would matter. Thanks.

Ya no, I have the same set up, internal regulator alt., alt is now on left side, ext. reg. still on right side, and it's still hooked up! I bought car this way,and everythings perfect for years. No fires. Maybe I don't need ext. regulator hooked up. I had lectric limited fab a enginess harness...

The ins. issue ia a good point. I had my rear glass replaced, no cost, with a guarantee of no effect on my policy, through J.C. Taylor ins. Just thought I would say this. Wouldn't think a call to your ins. co. would hurt.

Depends on how bad it leaks. I used Gold Eagle brand, I think thats the brand, brown bottle. Worked excellent in my winter beater 88 Beretta. But, it's my beater, so mechanic in a can was a good "fix''. In your vette, as in mine also, replace seal. Don't need to pull trans to replace rear seal...

You could use great stuff, by permatex. Best there is, $14.00 for 8oz cartridge. You use a caulk gun. This would eliminate leaks if you have a warped cover.

Good question. I have a bad answer. I'm not a body man, but if you think about it, the only way to correct your gap would be to twist the door, by the window frame to decrease gap, and obviously that can't be done, but it sure works good when installing aluminum storm doors. Wish I could help...

Thanks for the responses everybody. I too like the shim idea. Would it be better to have door striker removed, especially when trying to lift door, say an 1/8" or so? Thanks everybody.

Is it easier to loosen/tighten hinge bolts reaching across from inside of car, or through the window of the door you are working on? Possible to hold door shut then adjust up or down, or adjust, close, adjust, close, and on and on. Thanks a lot, skids.

Does anyone have any tricks for aligning the doors? 64 coupe. Redid hinge pins and bushings a while back and I know its a sucky job. Theres gotta be way easier than the way I did it. I basically sat in car to tighten hinge bolts. I need to raise one door about 1/8th".

Those are stops for the steering knuckle. They belong there.