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I've also done this conversion and have some pix available if you need more. There are two kinds of hydraulic rods, one which mounts at the bottom of the front wheel-well (the later C4 style) and one that uses a curved bracket that mounts near the front top of the wheel-well (the 87-89?) style...

Sounds like a good combo... let GM in on the secret when you figure it out :). [RICHR]

I don't mind at all... now I just need to get one of my own. I can do a Subaru Legacy seat, but it's not quite the same... Sometime I promise I'll make it up to Brewsters! [RICHR]

Agreed. Ed, my early (VIN 3036) 86 with CI heads has a one-piece RMS. [RICHR]

Yup, I am quite happy here... now just waiting for the Prominator to arrive so I can start dialing things in. Found one problem with my custom prom - it thinks I'm driving an automatic! That'd make the ol' OD run oddly :). [RICHR]

Same lane, believe it or not... Track times in the spring, after I spend the winter tuning with the PROMinator that should arrive any day. I did do a 13.71 @ 105.84 in 95-degree weather last June. [RICHR]

Took the Vette to emissions for its second go-around after the mods; it failed earlier this year with HC *way* over the limit. After that, I had found that the hose on the AIR system to the cat had gotten a crimp, so I put a molded curved one in place. I also added a second PCV valve on the...

Isn't the IAC supposed to push the TB open just a bit to keep idle up? Maybe the bigger TBs are letting in a touch more air than the ECU is expecting, causing the higher idles. Of course, that doesn't address Tigmaned's problem... unless his IAC is messed up. [RICHR]

Add another - Keisler makes a 5 or 6-speed transmission kit specifically as a 4+3 replacement. [RICHR]

FWIW, I have the same problem with the SR (like Moon's), a 52mm TB, and the STOCK chip. Using a custom one, though, it doesn't happen as often or as badly (ie, drops to 900 then falls to 700). [RICHR]

Ok. Right now I'm getting into tuning up my own 86, trying to pass emissions. Mad-mic told me to check the O2 sensor voltage because he too thinks I need a heated one. Is the 100-900mV the raw data you're seeing using the scan tool? Did the car want to stay in closed-loop all the time? Mine...

Got me... In a normal application (ie, not racing), I'd expect the roller lifters to last the life of the motor. Pushrods, though, will wear at the rocker ends unless you have full-roller lifters. [RICHR]

If you're planning to do a full build-up, yes... that's the route I wound up doing. However, if you don't want to pull the whole engine and do heads, etc, then the retro lifters are cheaper. [RICHR]

*IF* he wants to run roller lifters, then his choices are: 1. Buy the set of retrofit roller lifters (which are tied together in pairs) at about $500/set (they went up). There are problems with these separating at high RPMs, I was told on "the other forum." 2. Have his block drilled and...

Yup. And they rotate in the lifter bore, while the roller lifters do not. Hence the need for the "spider" which holds down the dogbones which keep the roller lifters aligned... which is why it's non-trivial (or non-cheap) to upgrade to a roller cam. [RICHR]

FWIW, I have run K&N's for over 300,000 miles in MAF-equipped cars and never had a coating problem. A MAP would be even less affected due to its location. [RICHR]

Here... http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm I use the K&Ns in my car mostly because it's cheaper than buying paper for the Subarus and I want all the air I can get in the Vette. Subaru OEM paper filters are about $15 each and the K&N was $23. It pays for itself in less than...

Wonder if that's a poor man's VATS bypass... [RICHR]

I agree. If you have a mechanic you trust who can do a compression test on each cylinder, that may point to a problem with the rings. Where in Paris are you, out of curiosity? [RICHR]

Sure, bring the car over sometime this week (call first; I think you have my # still). I can either check the vac for you or just loan you the part. [RICHR]