1982 Window Adjustment -too close to the top

[82ColEd]

Hey Gang.

I was reading a few adjustment procedures but i am still puzzled.

I had the car in the shop and he adjusted the windows to stop the rattling (the passenger side). Well, the rattle is gone, but he lubed and adjusted both sides. And now both sides when closed dont hit the little stopper on the weatherstrip to close, but go under it. Ie. too close inwards. He also replaced the outer weatherstrips on both side, does that have anything to do with it?

Do i have to loosen all screws up and re-adjust the whole thing again? It does close well, and it goes down where it should be. Though the driver side cant be opened when the door is closed, as it seems to hang on the weatherstrip. ad

I was thinking of taking the car back to him, but it would be an hour ride, leave the car there for a few days until he finds time and then pickup the car again. If it's simple, maybe i can do this. hnoes

Thanks in advance!


-Stefan

 

[damoroso]

The AIM shows a good window adjustment procedure, but the shop manual is better for adjustments like your talking about. It can be a pain, but it works well. If you don't have a manual, I can scan the pages and send them to you. It isn't difficult, but can take a couple of trys.

 

[82ColEd]

Appreciate the offer, but i have the Shop Manual and gave it a try this Saturday. No go.. Somehow i am not getting it. I loosend the proper screws and moved the channels, no luck. It got worse then before.

So all back to where we were and luckily i got it back.

So, question: Who's done this before and has any tips? I was imagining one would have to move the lower part of the channels towards the inside of the car, not the top of the channel. Puzzled..

Just to clarify, i need the top of window a little further outward, so it hit's the little metal clip instead of sliding under it.


Tia..

-Stefan

 

[damoroso]

Okay, I've done this before and several times!! LOL I did it when I got the car, it was leaking, then when I replaced the tops, then again when I did all the weather strips. I'm assuming the clip you're talking about is the "blow out" clip that's on the A-pillar. Your window is supposed to be under it. That clip is supposed to keep the window from blowing out of the weather strips from the air pressure that momentarily increases in side the car when both windows are up and one of the doors is closed. Besides, if your window is over the clip when closed, it won't seal at all...

Does the window leak? Are you getting water or air past the weather strips? Maybe I'm not understanding what the issue is, it sounds like there really isn't one though.

 

[Evolution1980]

Stefan, lemme know if you ever get this resolved. I gave up on my windows years ago when I replaced my weatherstrips. I have no idea what a C3 sounds like on the inside with windows that seal 100%.

 

[minifridge1138]

Stefan, lemme know if you ever get this resolved. I gave up on my windows years ago when I replaced my weatherstrips. I have no idea what a C3 sounds like the inside with windows that seal 100%.

So have I...

 

[damoroso]

Really? I guess I've been lucky. I know you three know what you're doing, I've read your posts! First I adjust the tops, by the service manual, then the windows. I use the assembly manual procedure to get close sometimes it works for a final fit, but not usually. Then I use the service manual for finer adjustments. I can tell you that because the glass tops don't sit flush to the halo bar on the back of the car, so I do get some wind noise from there. Fiberglass tops are quieter than the glass ones. There are zero water leaks though, I've driven the car in the down pours we get here in florida and nothing comes inside.

I've adjusted the windows on my car three times. Once because the old passenger side top glass was pulled away from the frame and I didn't realize it until I'd played with the window for a couple hours to get it to seal the wind noise, once for the new tops, and once for the new weather striping around the A-Pillar, rear vertical seals and the door strips. Each time I was able to get the windows to seal, but it did take some time and did get frustrating at times.

The typical issues I've had are, even though in the first part of the adjustment procedure, I'd have the window about an inch away from the top, from front to back, and had it square in the opening, when the window went all the way up, there'd be a small gap in the front top corner. I found that comes from the front of the window not hitting the A-Pillar seal evenly, and binding the window. That was because the window was a bit too far forward in the opening. The other common issue I've had is that the window is pressing too hard or is too far away from the rear vertical seal trying to get the window to seal up. Mine seals were a bit hard and weren't sealing well. I wouldn't get any water in there, but there was wind noise. You could feel the air coming in while you were driving. Once I replaced those, things really sealed up though.

 

[82ColEd]

We've collected some interest i'd say.. :L

Right, let me clarify: My windows seal 150% right now. They were ok before the mechanic got to them (driver side), but as the passenger side was rattling in the door when it was down, i was afraid it would break at some point. Usually when someone would close the door.hnoes hnoes

So, when he tightened up the passenger side window and replaced the door switch (auto door lock switch, driver side), he greased and tightened up the driver side as well. Well, good intentions and all.

The window sit's where it's supposed to, though it looks odd when the door is open, it hit's all the seals when i close it and it's under the T-Tops properly. No wind noise whatsoever.

Issue i have is: It's so tight against the seals, i cant open it while the door is closed. It opens a tiny bit then stops as it senses pressure, presumably.

And when i have it open and want to close it, it slides under the metal clip. NOT the Blow Out clip.. but the metal clip on the inside of the A-Frame..

Picture (1000 words etc):

I have followed the Shop Manual to loosen the 4 channel screws but whatever i do to the channels, it doesnt do squat. Other then making it worse. Once i moved the channels back where they are now and pushed hard on the anti-rattle cushions, it's back to step 1. But i cant see how i can gain anymore outboard on the window without pushing harder. (Can you say CRAAAACK) hnoes

Gents: Look through the Shop Manual, the directions are VERY good. And detailed for each different issue, but basically, you're looking at loosening all screws and once set to seal and square tighten them up.

Makes more sense now?

 

[damoroso]

That helps alot! You may have two issues. One the window seems to be too far inboard, and the other, the up stops may be set too high allowing the window to go too far into the top seal. That would explain why it's so hard to open.

If you look at how the window is hitting the weather strip in the pic, it isn't just hitting at the top (which would indicate it's tilted towards the inside of the car), it looks like it's coming up straight but too far inside. Seems the channels are a bit too far inward and based on what you said about the anti-rattle cushions, I wonder if they aren't pushing against the window too much pushing it inboard further. Also, it sounds like the anti-rattle cushions were the problem on the passenger side in the first place. It's my understanding that those things are there for when the window is down, not up.

Regardless, if it were me, I'd loosen the cushions, bring the window down, then set the cushions and try the window again. If that takes care of the problem in the pic, check the up stops next. Close the door roll up the window and set the stops. If you need to bring them down just a bit, then fine. If that doesn't fix it, loosen the cushions again, then work the adjustments of the channels out of the service manual to bring the window out a bit. If that doesn't work, the AIM starts with loosening everything including up stops and anti-rattle cushions....

I know it's a pain but it'll work, it was there before!! I'd volunteer to come over and give you a hand, but I don't think I have enough miles for the flight!

 

[jdp6000]

There is no easy fix its trial and error. You can always get it about 90% its that last 10%.

If you have the aftermarket hard rubbery weather stripping you won't get it to adjust unless you coat the rubber with something like armor-all so the glass doesn't grab. This is important.

The adjustments seem basic but arn't. They are very sensitive. I also found the angle setting on the front track is not the same as the rear. You want the back part of the glass as far out as possible and the front perfectly in to match the angle of the pillar weather stripping.

Wha I found that helped was adjusting the upper stops on how high the glass will go up. No matter what I did originally the window seem to catch about 1/2 from the top. So what I did is set the front stop just a bit lower then the rear. Keep in mind a worn regulator has play. So when you powered the window up...the front stopped the rear continue for about 1/8 of an inch more...sort of angling the window into place at the front....remember because of play thw windwo hits the stops but the window still goes up as the regulator distorts..does this make sense????This is tough to explain.

Jim

 

[jdp6000]

Appreciate the offer, but i have the Shop Manual and gave it a try this Saturday. No go.. Somehow i am not getting it. I loosend the proper screws and moved the channels, no luck. It got worse then before.

So all back to where we were and luckily i got it back.

So, question: Who's done this before and has any tips? I was imagining one would have to move the lower part of the channels towards the inside of the car, not the top of the channel. Puzzled..

Just to clarify, i need the top of window a little further outward, so it hit's the little metal clip instead of sliding under it.


Tia..

-Stefan

If you want to mess with it you need to adjust the two bolts for the in/out tilt on the front track. They are more sensitive then you think. Try a bit at a time. Don't do it wi the windowo all the way up...the pressure throughs everything out. Raise the window to about the height of the metal tab. Loosen just the two bolts for inward/outward, push the window to where you think it should be. final settings for the bolts do not have to be equal...one can be in more or less then the other...depends on wear.

Jim

 

[XRayOne]

Door window glass.

Well here's my two cents. My Chiltons has a very nice picture of ALL the adjustments, like 8 places. I tried aligning mine and it seemed like it made no difference afterward. Then I ran the window down and suddenly everything dropped and the window felt free. I put it up and it was a mess out of alignment. I went back down, reset everything as close to the starting point as I remembered and started over one step at a time running the window down and up and gently closing door each time. That way I could see progress or not. It's not perfect now but it no longer rattles, does not catch the guide on closing, or make that awfull sound like the glass will break when I hit a bump, looks straighter as well. I'm guessing the glass is under tension from the mechanicals and that keeps it from moving when up. I too was afraid to break my glass. I have power windows.