Welcome to the Corvette Forums at the Corvette Action Center!

2 fuel pumps in one month

rhandle

Active member
Joined
Apr 23, 2009
Messages
30
Location
boca raton
Corvette
1996 grand sport
Hi I Have a 1996 Grand Sport That get minimal driving. I replaced a fuel pump one yr ago .Last month the fuel pump died and I replaced it with a new pump from the dealership. The car fired immediatelly .
Two Days ago i went to start the car and it wouldnt fire . Fuel pump symptoms AGAIN . No fuel pressure, no humming of fuel pump when key is turned to run position.
This is a minimally driven car. I know i should drive it more often.But what would cause the loss of the second fuel pump 1 month after changing it. I am totally frustrated please any help would be appreciated. THANK YOU
 
Hi I Have a 1996 Grand Sport That get minimal driving. I replaced a fuel pump one yr ago .Last month the fuel pump died and I replaced it with a new pump from the dealership. The car fired immediatelly .
Two Days ago i went to start the car and it wouldnt fire . Fuel pump symptoms AGAIN . No fuel pressure, no humming of fuel pump when key is turned to run position.
This is a minimally driven car. I know i should drive it more often.But what would cause the loss of the second fuel pump 1 month after changing it. I am totally frustrated please any help would be appreciated. THANK YOU

Did your fuel pump/sender assembly have rust on it?
When you pull the assembly look for rust particles at the bottom of the tank.

I replaced a pump that didn't run and a couple of months latter the new pump failed.
Removed the assembly and applied 12 volts direct to the fuel pump motor. It started to smoke so I
knew it was seized.

That's when I took a closer look and found a lot of very fine rust particles at the bottom of the tank.
I wire wheeled the rusted assembly and bought some sealer that is used to seal the inside of metal
gas tanks from Eastwood. I coated the assembly being careful not to get it on the sender resistive material
and installed a new pump and sock. Cleaned out the tank and replaced the external frame rail fuel filter.
So far so good.

Corvette Central at one time was selling replacement fuel/sender assemblies made out of stainless steel.
 
Sounds like similar issue

Hey. Thanks for your input on my gas tank. I agree I took the sender unit out and there was a ton of crap that look like old gasket material that the last guy who change the pump left in the tank. Even though the new pump has a strainer do you think that that could cause the fuel pump to fail after one use.how did you get inside the tank to brush it and how did you empty all the fuel out? Your help would be really appreciated as the dirty fuel tank is the only thing I could find. I am just surprised the filter on the fuel pump didn't stop that little dirt from getting in and destroying the pump. Thanks. Rich
 
Last edited:
Hey. Thanks for your input on my gas tank. I agree I took the sender unit out and there was a ton of crap that look like old gasket material that the last guy who change the pump left in the tank. Even though the new pump has a strainer do you think that that could cause the fuel pump to fail after one use.how did you get inside the tank to brush it and how did you empty all the fuel out? Your help would be really appreciated as the dirty fuel tank is the only thing I could find. I am just surprised the filter on the fuel pump didn't stop that little dirt from getting in and destroying the pump. Thanks. Rich

You need to verify if the fuel pump is still under warranty and is really defective. :L

If you got the assembly out, take some jumper wires and apply 12 volts from the battery to the pump and verify if the pump works or if you have a wiring problem. (The pump is DC so the 12 volts has to go to the + of the motor terminal and - to ground terminal of the motor or it will run backwards).

I know you said you couldn't hear the pump run. Another problem is the short piece of rubber hose that attaches to the fuel pump outlet to the fuel pump assembly cracks or the plastic crimp hose clamps can fail causing a leak at the hose which results in no or low fuel pressure.

In my case it was fine particles of rust causing the fuel pump to seize. There was also rust colored stains on the fuel pump sock.

You can purchase a siphon tube from any auto part store. It has a bulb you squeeze to create a siphon and it draws the gas through the tube. As long as the container is below the level of the gas tank most of the gas will be drawn out. i used a sponge to get the remaining gas out. You can do the same thing with just a piece of plastic or rubber hose and use your mouth as the siphon bulb. :chuckle

After you remove the sending unit assembly, the hole is big enough to put your arm/hand in there to clean out the gas tank. The inside of the gas tank is lined with a hard plastic material so the gas tank itself is not the problem. I then used a rag and wiped out all the junk.

If the pump is seized and you're a curious type of person cut the pump open with a die grinder or hack saw and see if it's got junk inside of it.

After you clean the tank out and install a new pump remove the frame rail fuel filter. Attach a hose to the input line to the filter and the other end of the hose into a bucket. Turn the ignition key and crank the engine. The fuel pump will run and it will flush out the line from the gas tank to the fuel filter input line. Install a new filter and you're done.

 
no terminal G on diagnostic port

i trying to enegize fuel pump by attatching 12v to obd2 port g . But there is no g terminal in obd2 ,only numbered terminals. Is there an equivalent to "g" in obd2


[FONT=verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
 
OBD2 is a 1-16 pin connector.
Pin 16 has 12 volts on it to power a scanner.

ODBII%20Master%20Pinout.jpg






This is a OBD1 connector.
obd1pinout2.gif


At the fuel pump connector at the fuel tank
The Gray wire is 12 volts to the fuel pump.
The Black wire is ground.
The Purple wire is the resistance that goes to the fuel gauge.

Strip some insulation back on the Gray wire and apply 12 volts. The pump should run.
 
i am far from a mechanic

Hey E this is a 96 and is obd2 therefore there is no terminal g only the numbered ports of an obd 2 connector . wher e do i put 12 volts to on a obd2 car. Pls help
 
Hey E this is a 96 and is obd2 therefore there is no terminal g only the numbered ports of an obd 2 connector . wher e do i put 12 volts to on a obd2 car. Pls help

On your 96 there is no way to activate the fuel pump by using the OBD2 connector. On the older C4's
you could activate the fuel pump by applying 12 volts to Pin G up to I believe 89.


Not sure what you're testing.
If you want to verify there is 12 volts at the pump, use a volt meter.
Gray wire should have 12 volts on it while cranking the engine.

If you want to manually apply 12 volts to the pump use a long piece of wire.
Strip some of the insulation off at the Gray wire at the fuel pump connector plug at the fuel tank.
Connect one end to the gray wire at the fuel pump sender wiring harness. Then when you touch the
other end to the positive terminal of the battery positive post the pump should run. When you're done
tape up the insulation where you spliced into it.

If you don't feel comfortable in doing the above.
Pull the assembly back out of the tank.
Re-attach the wiring harness.
No need to re-attach the fuel lines.
Have someone crank the engine.

The pump should run as long as the engine is cranked.
It should also run for 2 seconds when the ignition is turned on.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Corvette Forums

Not a member of the Corvette Action Center?  Join now!  It's free!

Help support the Corvette Action Center!

Supporting Vendors

Dealers:

MacMulkin Chevrolet - The Second Largest Corvette Dealer in the Country!

Advertise with the Corvette Action Center!

Double Your Chances!

Our Partners

Back
Top Bottom