'64 headlight problems

[brrrdman]

has anyone got any advice about repairing the retractable headlights. Mine do not smoothly roll over...one is alot slower than the other. They will make it with some manual assistance, but repairs are needed. when rolling back to closed....they seem to work fine.

 

[67l36driver]

This should help: http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_info/body_&_frame/Headlight Motor Rebuild.pdf

The only problem I have with the directions is the deal about rotating the output gear 180 deg. :eyerole It is much better to just replace both gears for about $50.

The contacts in the rollover switch can be filed and will help get juice to the motor.

Cleaning all the wiring connections is SOP on any C2.

After you get them all back together, run them on the workbench 4-5 minutes in each direction. They will get very hot as it is not a continus duty motor like your wiper or heater blower motor. This helps to polish the commutator and seat the brushs.

 

[67l36driver]

Rollover switch link.

Rollover switch link.

http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_info/electrical/Headlightupdownswitch.jpg

The problem with the switch is that it carries much more current as things get older that what it was designed for. Therefore the contacts burn quickly. (The General should have used a couple relays like the horn but he was too cheap.)

A points file is better than sandpaper as it will leave no grit behind to promote sparking/burning.

 

[magicv8]

has anyone got any advice about repairing the retractable headlights. Mine do not smoothly roll over...one is alot slower than the other. They will make it with some manual assistance, but repairs are needed. when rolling back to closed....they seem to work fine.

IMO the first thing to do is pull the clip that holds the slow motor and make sure the lamp assembly flops back and forth with no resistance.

If it does, the motor needs work. If not, try spraying silicone lube onto the pivot shaft (use the long thin tube on the nozzle) to see if you can lube the bugs, dirt, and corrosion before you go wild and replace the pivot balls.

 

[brrrdman]

thanx.... I will check that before I take anything apart.

 

[67l36driver]

brrrdman: In reply to your email question.

The motor/reducer is easily removed. Prop the hood open (There is absolutely no need to remove it!). Borrow your wife's hand mirror so you can see what you are doing. Disconnect the power leads. Remove the motor brace and pull the clip. Using the hand wheel, roll the buckets part way open/closed to remove any stress on the gearbox. Slide it off the shaft.

Getting it out from between the hood and nose requires a rolling flip (think olympic diving) motor end first. It may take some time to get the knack.

Old geezers: Take some ibuprofen for your back.

 

[65-to-00]

Is there any accident history on one side or the other?

Sort of dial this notion in before you start adjusting. I wasted tons of time on motors, tracks and "crows feet" only to have someone with a sharp eye point out that some areas were slightly off.

Check where you can for any "flash" repairs (on the underside) or overspray.

For that matter, I strongly suspect that many of the "Custom" Vettes with the "Modified" front ends ..... you know ... where they glass the nose and stick those rotten looking rectangle lights behind the grill & bumper ... have been in wrecks.

 

[brrrdman]

headlight problem

Its possible that there has been some front damage on the car...the bumpers don't seem to align completely true with each other.

 

[Kid_Again]

In my experience, you should take out the motors and rebuild them regardless of the true nature of the problem. I buy new gears as noted, I don't reverse them.

I'm sure you'll find dried grease all over the innards of the headlight motors.

To my eyes, the motors for the headlights are the same as that for the power antenna on a C2. Wonder if JohnZ or the few other experts will agree.

Oh yeah, almost forgot. Place a thin shop rag on the leading edge of the hood when you pull the motors. You WILL be glad that you did, especially on the first one that you pull.

 

[brrrdman]

thanx everyone 4 the advice

Thanx to all for the advice....I will have enough free time in the next couple weeks to get into this project.

In my experience, you should take out the motors and rebuild them regardless of the true nature of the problem. I buy new gears as noted, I don't reverse them.

I'm sure you'll find dried grease all over the innards of the headlight motors.

To my eyes, the motors for the headlights are the same as that for the power antenna on a C2. Wonder if JohnZ or the few other experts will agree.

Oh yeah, almost forgot. Place a thin shop rag on the leading edge of the hood when you pull the motors. You WILL be glad that you did, especially on the first one that you pull.

 

[Kid_Again]

not sure that i saw this tip but i've found it essential to rotate the thimb wheel on the motor while it's in place to relieve the tension in the gear mechanism

the only way to get the motors off, in my experience, is to do so

i see the advice of twisting the headlight buckets and that may do the same thing but i've never tried that

good luck, it was the first real fix i ever did on my cars and it requires no special knowledge, just common sense and a drawing (i literally had nothing more than a Long Island Corvette catalog open in front of me as a guide)

 

[brrrdman]

Thanks for your advice...my headlight motors are working good now.

This should help: http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_info/body_&_frame/Headlight Motor Rebuild.pdf

The only problem I have with the directions is the deal about rotating the output gear 180 deg. :eyerole It is much better to just replace both gears for about $50.

The contacts in the rollover switch can be filed and will help get juice to the motor.

Cleaning all the wiring connections is SOP on any C2.

After you get them all back together, run them on the workbench 4-5 minutes in each direction. They will get very hot as it is not a continus duty motor like your wiper or heater blower motor. This helps to polish the commutator and seat the brushs.

 

[brrrdman]

Thanks for your advice...my headlight motors are working good now.

Rollover switch link.

http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_info/electrical/Headlightupdownswitch.jpg

The problem with the switch is that it carries much more current as things get older that what it was designed for. Therefore the contacts burn quickly. (The General should have used a couple relays like the horn but he was too cheap.)

A points file is better than sandpaper as it will leave no grit behind to promote sparking/burning.

 

[brrrdman]

Thanks for your advice...my headlight motors are working good now.

IMO the first thing to do is pull the clip that holds the slow motor and make sure the lamp assembly flops back and forth with no resistance.

If it does, the motor needs work. If not, try spraying silicone lube onto the pivot shaft (use the long thin tube on the nozzle) to see if you can lube the bugs, dirt, and corrosion before you go wild and replace the pivot balls.