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92 Door Panel



I have a passenger door panel (inside,92) that keeps "poping" loose at the top. I've removed and replaced the door panel several times and the panel "top flange" or "hook" surface doesn't seem to be linning up with the door "hook". 1.)Has anyone ever tried to heat and bend the panel plastic "flange". 2) What kind of glue can be used for reparing a small crack in the plastic?
My passenger door panel does the same thing!
Haven't had the time to look at it though...
...maybe it was an option or something.

Trick door panel $165
There is a GM TSB which addresses this problem. It is common on most C4s. TSB 87-116. "Door trim panel retainer" P/N 10082828.

Unfortunately, I tried to buy the retainer from my local GM dealer, but GM discontinued this part in August 2001! Please let me know if you find some of these retainers so I can get one too!
Thanks for the info Turismo!

Did you contact Alaska Sales and Service in Anchorage?
They always seemed to have things I needed.
Although I didn't need Vette parts back then...

C V,

I haven't personally called down to AK Sales and Service. A lot of people have had bad experiences with AK S&S. I personally have not had any experience with them at all, so I can't say much.

Tip Top Chevy here in Fairbanks suposedly did a dealer search for the retainer and they turned up nothing. Maybe I'll call around some of the dealerships to find one myself.

When did you move out of Alaska?
Cracks in the door panel....I repaired mine. Take the panel off and get a soldering iron with a flat blade versus a pointed one. Take the panel and press the crack closed, every inch or so press the hot iron into the crack but not enough to go through...just melt the plastic,
x x x x x
then when you get to the end, go back and fill in the spots, make the crack look like a bunch of x"s along the top of the crack...


when finished carefully use the flat of the blade to push the plastic the was pushed up back into the holes the iron made. If you smooth it out carefully it will be "about" as strong as the original. If you try the strength of the fix you could cause it to crack again, but with normal use it should hold up.
Both my doors were cracked and would not hold...they both were done and hold perfectly now. Any questions just ask....
To answer your question Turismo, I moved out of Alaska in late '96. It was a military thing, I wasn't there for the snow.

I looked at buying two different Vettes while I was there, but it just wasn't cost effective at the time. Oh well, I came back to Texas, bought a '95, and now I have this door panel thing...

...if all else fails...:bang
CV Man,
If you ever find that part let us know. My passenger side has the same problem. The top part of the door actually looks like it is warped and why it pops. I tried a couple of makeshift ideas and none work well.
I think that P/N 10082828 is drivers side and P/N 10082829 is the passenger side. So double-check when and if you find the part.
I'll keep looking too!
Door Panel clips

Thanks Guys, If I find a source, I'll let you know. If you happen to have some pics of the mysterious clips. Please send me a copy. Perhaps they can be fabricated.

I'm on a quest...
... I'll see if I can find these darn retainers.
If not, we'll have to keep poppin' 'em back or get some bailin' wire an' have at it...

CV Man,
Well I don't know about bailin' wire... but... i did get a small tie-wrap and loop it through the black edging on the inside of the top of the door panel and through a hole next to the fiberglass clips. Then snugged the tie-wrap up a bit. At least for now I don't have to keep on poppin' the panel back on :(
Definitely not a long term fix but as an interim it works.
Door Panel

Good news, you can re-set the plastic lip (top flange) with a heat gun. I put a piece of wood on the one side of the plastic lip and heated the inside with a heat gun while applying a little pressure to move the lip to where I wanted it. You may want to pull the covering back a little, at the top, to keep from harming it. Hold the position until the plastic cools and the new "set" position will stay. I used a wooden paint stick to push the flange into position, primarily to keep from burning the finger. It took about three passes until it was in the position I wanted, then I glued the covering back down. Seems to work very well. Time shall tell.

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