92 vette ASR light on, stalls and won't start

[mvsvette]

I have seen a ton of threads about this issue. I have a 92 vette, on the way to work, cold morning temp 45. The ASR light came on and it started stalling. As the engine temp got hotter in stop and go traffic is completely died, but would start and run. This repeated over and over again for a few days. On the way home, outside temp 89, engine died and would not start. Battery died, as I tried to start over and over again ( it was on the freeway). Had to tow it. Pulled codes, first set, mod 1 - c13, mod 4 - h26, mod 9 - h62. Car started when I got it home drove it for a few hours and it died in the drive way. second set of codes, mod 1 - h13, h31,h33,h35,h37, none on mod's 4or 9.

History on the car. I did a complete top end overhaul (due to blown head gaskets) and replaced all sensors, Opti, fuel injectors, coil and all sensor connectors. I have completely rebuilt the suspension. I have also, fixed and cleaned all the grounding points.

 

[ecss]

module 1 - c13, mod 4 - h26, mod 9 - h62. Car started when I got it home drove it for a few hours and it died in the drive way. second set of codes, mod 1 - h13, h31,h33,h35,h37, none on mod's 4or 9.

History on the car. I did a complete top end overhaul (due to blown head gaskets) and replaced all sensors, Opti, fuel injectors, coil and all sensor connectors. I have completely rebuilt the suspension. I have also, fixed and cleaned all the grounding points.

You never mentioned if the car ever ran properly after the overhaul?

Module 1 DTC C13 is a problem with the switches on the driver information center.
Module 4 DTC 26 is a a problem with the EGR solenoid circuit.
Module 9 DTC 62 is the loss of the tachometer signal to the ABS/ASR control module.

Second set of codes Module 1 DTC 31, 33, 35 and 37 were probably set because of the low battery charge.

So the code that you need to investigate is for the EGR circuit.
The ECM monitors the Gray wire that goes to the EGR solenoid. DTC 26 indicates the incorrect voltage on the Gray wire. If you turn the ignition On you should read 12 volts on the Gray wire. This indicates the solenoid is not energized. If you start the car with the engine at idle you should also measure 12 volts on the gray wire. If you read zero volts the Gray wire is shorted to ground or the ECM is bad and grounding the Gray wire which will allow vacuum to pass through the EGR solenoid turning on the EGR valve which can cause a rough idle or stalling. You can disconnect the EGR vacuum hose, plug it and see if the engine idles properly.

You should disconnect the negative battery terminal to clear any codes and see what codes reset.

 

[mvsvette]

Thanks for the reply. Yes the car ran really good after overhaul. I pulled the air pump and it was full of water. So, I bought one on ebay and cleaned it out and it keeps blowing fuses. This could be the reason for the code 26. Which one of these codes will cause it to stall and not start ?

You never mentioned if the car ever ran properly after the overhaul?

Module 1 DTC C13 is a problem with the switches on the driver information center.
Module 4 DTC 26 is a a problem with the EGR solenoid circuit.
Module 9 DTC 62 is the loss of the tachometer signal to the ABS/ASR control module.

Second set of codes Module 1 DTC 31, 33, 35 and 37 were probably set because of the low battery charge.

So the code that you need to investigate is for the EGR circuit.
The ECM monitors the Gray wire that goes to the EGR solenoid. DTC 26 indicates the incorrect voltage on the Gray wire. If you turn the ignition On you should read 12 volts on the Gray wire. This indicates the solenoid is not energized. If you start the car with the engine at idle you should also measure 12 volts on the gray wire. If you read zero volts the Gray wire is shorted to ground or the ECM is bad and grounding the Gray wire which will allow vacuum to pass through the EGR solenoid turning on the EGR valve which can cause a rough idle or stalling. You can disconnect the EGR vacuum hose, plug it and see if the engine idles properly.

You should disconnect the negative battery terminal to clear any codes and see what codes reset.

 

[ecss]

Thanks for the reply. Yes the car ran really good after overhaul. I pulled the air pump and it was full of water. So, I bought one on ebay and cleaned it out and it keeps blowing fuses. This could be the reason for the code 26. Which one of these codes will cause it to stall and not start ?

So a fuse keeps blowing even after you replaced the air pump?

On the second set of codes, none of them would keep the engine from running or stalling.
I'd say the first set of codes were cleared with the dead battery and when you tried to start it with the dead battery the 2nd set of codes were set. Those are all related to the dash cluster test the CCM does when you turn the ignition key to On.

Clear the codes by disconnecting the negative battery cable.

Start the engine and see if any new codes set.

If the engine only cranks, verify if the tachometer shows rpm. If it does that indicates the Ignition Control Module is pulsing the coil and you should have spark at the plugs. If no rpm on the tach you need to use a volt meter set to AC and verify there is around 3 volts AC on the White wire which is the input signal to the Ignition Control Module from the ECM while cranking the engine.

92's are known to have flakey ECM's due to poor solder joints. Symptoms are random stalling, no spark, or rough running engine with no codes being set.

 

[mvsvette]

Yes, the fuse keeps blowing. The pump I bought on ebay, didn't spin freely.

I cleared the codes and started it. Ran it for awhile. The tach shows PRM's, but it sporadically shows a miss and the tach drops to zero. This is how this issue started. I have heard of the issue with the ECM. I continually have problems with my vette. Would you recommend having the ECM rebuilt?

So a fuse keeps blowing even after you replaced the air pump?

On the second set of codes, none of them would keep the engine from running or stalling.
I'd say the first set of codes were cleared with the dead battery and when you tried to start it with the dead battery the 2nd set of codes were set. Those are all related to the dash cluster test the CCM does when you turn the ignition key to On.

Clear the codes by disconnecting the negative battery cable.

Start the engine and see if any new codes set.

If the engine only cranks, verify if the tachometer shows rpm. If it does that indicates the Ignition Control Module is pulsing the coil and you should have spark at the plugs. If no rpm on the tach you need to use a volt meter set to AC and verify there is around 3 volts AC on the White wire which is the input signal to the Ignition Control Module from the ECM while cranking the engine.

92's are known to have flakey ECM's due to poor solder joints. Symptoms are random stalling, no spark, or rough running engine with no codes being set.

 

[ecss]

Yes, the fuse keeps blowing. The pump I bought on ebay, didn't spin freely.

I cleared the codes and started it. Ran it for awhile. The tach shows PRM's, but it sporadically shows a miss and the tach drops to zero. This is how this issue started. I have heard of the issue with the ECM. I continually have problems with my vette. Would you recommend having the ECM rebuilt?

So you replaced the air pump fuse and just have the air pump disconnected?

Since the rebuild how many miles has the engine run properly?

That could confirm if all of the engine grounds were reinstalled after the over haul and it's probably not a wiring problem.

My guess is it's either the Optispark, ECM, Igniton Control module, Igniton coil or tach filter.
1) To eliminate the Optispark, reinstall the original. :L
2) To eliminate the ECM, borrow one or send yours to a fellow Corvette owner for testing.
Because most of the 92 ECM problems appear to be poor solder joints it's a hit or miss whether a repair company can fix it.
3) To eliminate the tach filter, disconnect it at the Grey connector at the Ignition coil. See if you can poke the pin out. If not, cut the wire and re-solder it after testing. This is the White wire that sends the tach pulse signal to the ABS/ASR module. (You did get a Module 9 DTC 62 loss of tach pulse to the ABS/ASR module).

Doing this test will disable the tach signal from going to instrument panel and the ABS/ASR module so DTC 62 will probably set. It's not a common problem but the tach filter does go bad.

Here's the schematic showing the tach filter Grey connector Pin A which I beleive is a White wire.

 

[mvsvette]

I have replace the air pump fuse a few times, same result. The pump is not disconnected. The check engine light comes on after a drive.

I have driven it a few thousand miles since replacing the Opti, ICM, Coil and all the associated sensor connectors.

I have an extra coil and ICM will swap them today. I'm also going to check the all the plugs and wiring gong to both of them. Also, I'll check the tach filter.

I'm also going to send the ECM out this week.

Thanks again for all your help ECSS. I'll give an update ASAP.

So you replaced the air pump fuse and just have the air pump disconnected?

Since the rebuild how many miles has the engine run properly?

That could confirm if all of the engine grounds were reinstalled after the over haul and it's probably not a wiring problem.

My guess is it's either the Optispark, ECM, Igniton Control module, Igniton coil or tach filter.
1) To eliminate the Optispark, reinstall the original. :L
2) To eliminate the ECM, borrow one or send yours to a fellow Corvette owner for testing.
Because most of the 92 ECM problems appear to be poor solder joints it's a hit or miss whether a repair company can fix it.
3) To eliminate the tach filter, disconnect it at the Grey connector at the Ignition coil. See if you can poke the pin out. If not, cut the wire and re-solder it after testing. This is the White wire that sends the tach pulse signal to the ABS/ASR module. (You did get a Module 9 DTC 62 loss of tach pulse to the ABS/ASR module).

Doing this test will disable the tach signal from going to instrument panel and the ABS/ASR module so DTC 62 will probably set. It's not a common problem but the tach filter does go bad.

Here's the schematic showing the tach filter Grey connector Pin A which I beleive is a White wire.

 

[ecss]

If you send the ECM out for repair make sure you remove the little circuit board with the Eprom on it.
On the bottom of the ECM is a small metal plate cover held on by two small bolts. After you remove the metal plate
there are two tabs you press on and it will eject the circuit board. That board contains the engine calibration information. They don't need that module to repair the ECM so make sure you remove it and keep it.

Beware of a company called SIA in IL. I sent them a ECM for repair via Rock Auto Parts about 7 years ago. The problem was no Vehicle Speed Sensor signal coming out of the ECM. I verified there was a good input signal. I wrote that information down and sent the ECM to the address Rock Auto requested. I received the ECM back with the same problem.
The supervisor at Rock Auto apologized and had UPS pick up my ECM. A week latter it was repaired. I did notice Rock Auto stopped using that company for repairs.

 

[mvsvette]

Update: I started the car and as it was running, I did the wire wiggle trick and it stalled. It was a bad solder joint going to the ICM. AKA: operator error lol. I must have messed that one up.

I really appreciate the info about that company. That's where I was gonna send it.

You're the man ECSS. Saved me again brotha.

If you send the ECM out for repair make sure you remove the little circuit board with the Eprom on it.
On the bottom of the ECM is a small metal plate cover held on by two small bolts. After you remove the metal plate
there are two tabs you press on and it will eject the circuit board. That board contains the engine calibration information. They don't need that module to repair the ECM so make sure you remove it and keep it.

Beware of a company called SIA in IL. I sent them a ECM for repair via Rock Auto Parts about 7 years ago. The problem was no Vehicle Speed Sensor signal coming out of the ECM. I verified there was a good input signal. I wrote that information down and sent the ECM to the address Rock Auto requested. I received the ECM back with the same problem.
The supervisor at Rock Auto apologized and had UPS pick up my ECM. A week latter it was repaired. I did notice Rock Auto stopped using that company for repairs.

 

[ecss]

Update: I started the car and as it was running, I did the wire wiggle trick and it stalled. It was a bad solder joint going to the ICM. AKA: operator error lol. I must have messed that one up.

I really appreciate the info about that company. That's where I was gonna send it.

You're the man ECSS. Saved me again brotha.

Your persistence paid off.