'95 Water Pump Change Question

[compyelc4]

Leaking water pump. Book says nothing about removing power steering pump pulley but it looks like that is the only way to get to the short bolt on the drivers side of the water pump. Is this true?

If true, can someone tell me a simple way to remove the pulley? It looks like it may be fastened with a large allen-head bolt, but the book says I must use a special pulley remover to get it off, and then a special tool to reinstall it. Come on!!! Any suggestions here?

I'll hold up on the process until I get the word from one of you.

As always, thanks in advance.

 

[sumoboy]

I don't think you have to, changing the optispark involves removing the water pump and states nothing about removing the power steering pully. But if you ever want to remove the pulley you do need a special puller and installer for it.
See if this helps http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/16758/

:eyerole

 

[compyelc4]

Summoboy,

Thanks for the response.

If any of you have extracted the bolt I refer to, I would love to know what tool you used. I'm trying to reach it with a 3 and 4" 3/8" extension, socket and 5" ratchet. Can't seem to get the correct angle around the left lower side of the pulley. I also tried to get to the bolt through one of the elongated holes in the pulley itself. Can't quite get the right angle there either. I'm frustrated but not broken. Funny....this looked like about a 2 hr. job to me!

 

[sumoboy]

Make sure you keep the antifreeze from the optispark and don't forget to bleed the system, there are two bleeder screws. I'm not too sure but I think 95's use dexcool antifreeze also.

 

[jmccloud]

C4 LT1 Water Pump

The service manual says nothing about removing the power steering pump or pulley.
Try a deep well socket - it's not needed for the bolt head clearance but may give a slightly different overall length of your combined tool and improved clearance.
Small block Chevys usually gush coolant when the water pump is removed regardless of how much coolant was removed via the water pump ports, radiator and hoses. This will likely soak the opti-spark. The only way to prevent the gush is to drain the block. The 95 has two knock sensors located just above the oil pan about 1/2 back (from under the car). Each sensor has a sheet metal shield that's attached to two pan bolts. Have a drain pan ready, there will probably be a flood when the knock sensors come out (sometimes the hole is covered with a cap of rust that can be broken with a screwdriver).
The service manual warns against chemical flush IN BOLD PRINT.
95's had a coolant change mid-year. Older ones take the green antifreeze and newer ones take the orange stuff. There should be a sticker somewhere in the engine compartment if yours needs the orange. My C4 was made in April '95 and takes the green antifreeze.
Hope this helps.
PS may I ask a favor in return? The service manual talks about air bleed valves in the bleed hose that runs from the back of the engine and from the radiator to the radiator overflow tank (the tank just above the heater blower motor behind the rf wheel). I can't find those valves. Where are they?

 

[sumoboy]

I only know of two bleeder screws if you have the LT1. One is at the thermostat housing and the other is located in a "tee" where the coolant from the throttle body connects to the heater return hose. They both have slotted heads which you can use a screwdriver to loosen. Try to put some rags around them when you do so the antifreeze won't run down the engine.

This site should help you.
http://h-body.org/people/projects/building_lt1/lt1%20info.html

 

[compyelc4]

jmccloud and summoboy,

Thank you. I got the bolt out tonight w/o removing the PS pump pulley. I used a deep-well socket. Just the right length with a short extension.

Regarding the gush of water and the opti, I know, I know. I'm on my second opti in 20,000 mi. I used Saran Wrap over the top of the opti and I don't think I soaked her...some slight splashing maybe. And fortunately I think I caught the water pump leak in time. I could detect some telltale leakage signs down the front of the opti, but I saw none on the top of the cover.

My first opti went south at 15,000 mi. That was 5,000 miles ago. At least I was told at the time that the Opti needed replacing. The female harness connector terminals that attach at the 10:00 position on the opti were corroded blue-green and so was the matching internal pins on the opti. I could see that down in the recessed terminal receptor using a small flashlight. Tonight I was looking at my old (supposedly bad) opti and, you know, I don't know how water can get into those things! There is a neoprene seal running 360 degrees between the sections. Maybe if that seal was constantly soaked in antifreeze from a bad water pump that would work its way in over time. Who knows!? I am almost certain that my opti problem was external connections, not internal circuitry.

If that is so I may still have a good opti in my bench drawer. Is there some way to bench test an opti? I'm going to open the old one up this weekend and take a peek. I'm betting it is dry in there and that GM was guessing the opti AND the harness was bad and so they just replaced both without testing the opti. :eyerole

As for the almost new one now hanging on the front of the engine, the only thing I noticed was a slight dirty oil smudge probably coming from the water pump engine seal. Think I should replace that too while I'm in there? How might that be done? Lookes like a screwdriver, hammer and small socket could get one removed and replaced.

 

[jmccloud]

Bleed screws and water pump drive bushing

Sumoboy,
Thanks for the info on bleed screws (the book calls them valves and I missed the slotted screw heads).
The articles in sumoboy's link point out that the timing chain cover, etc. need to be removed to replace the water pump drive seal. The articles are well worth the read. Thanks again.
John