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Antique Black & Decker Valve Grinding Machine

I Made A Splash Guard This Morning

I made a splash guard this morning and it took a LONG time..............about 4 hours or so. I started off by soldering a 4" piece of 3/16" steel tubing onto the edge of a piece of 22 gauge galvanized steel, made a hinge pin from 3/32" welding rod, then started adding pieces and bending them to match up to the lower aluminum "trough" that gravity-feeds the coolant back to the reservoir. I still lose a little bit of coolant but only a few drops and I'll fix that this afternoon. Prior to making it I searched E-Bay for parts for these antique machines and found NONE so I knew I would have to make my own..........somehow!

The only part I am missing now is the 2-1/2" seat grinding stone and that should arrive in Monday's mail. Once it arrives I'll have everything I need to tackle the valve installation. OH yeah, I also ordered a Makita electric die grinder and that should arrive by mid week. The weather is starting to cool off so with luck I'll be able to dive into it by mid October.
 

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Looks great, although I'm not sure what it has to do with a Corvette..

I put up a 100' random wire antenna with a 9:1 unun transformer for shortwave and two silly scarecrows today. However, detailed explanations of how to wind a 9:1 UNUN are not something I'd post here..
 
I put up a 100' random wire antenna with a 9:1 unun transformer for shortwave and two silly scarecrows today. However, detailed explanations of how to wind a 9:1 UNUN are not something I'd post here..

Why not post it here? It's something we all need for our vettes
 
Why not post it here? It's something we all need for our vettes

Personally. I'd use new valves so nothing required except lapping.

If you were going to install oversized valves; would you buy new valves or old ones that required resurfacing??

Where one would buy used oversized valves that needed re-sufacing is quite another question.
 
Antifreeze For Coolant? Might be A BAD Idea

I now have second thoughts about using antifreeze for coolant. When I was testing my new splash guard a few minutes ago I began noticing a VERY foul taste in my mouth as the grinding wheel was literally atomizing the antifreeze into a super-fine mist. So I may have to abandon the antifreeze idea and use a soluble oil like I am using for my band saw. The problem is the soluble oil isn't staying uh "soluble" as after a couple of months it separates from the water. Maybe I need to find a better grade of soluble oil that STAYS soluble. Or as I have a lot of used ATF I might try using that because it's so thin. I have my splash guard off at the moment to plug a tiny hole that was allowing the coolant to leak onto the lower carriage. I sandblasted the area and applied some J B Weld and that'll stop the leak for sure.
 
There are cutting oils and grinding fluids; I doubt antifreeze is one of them..

Hopefully, you aren't letting it drip on the floor..
 
ATF Works Much Better

I tried using used ATF as coolant and it works great. The high-speed grinding wheel doesn't whip it into a mist and it doesn't splash all over the place. And, I tried it without the splash guard in place so it should work great when the splash guard IS in place. It does have a higher viscosity but I don't think it'll make any difference as long as the valve face ends up being real smooth.

My new Makita electric die grinder is supposed to arrive on Friday so I may get started this weekend. The temperature is supposed to only hit the low 80's so the weather will be a lot better for tackling a big job like this.
 
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Okay, I'll bite. Why would antifreeze dripping on my concrete floor be a bad thing?

It makes a mess that you'll track into the house. :chuckle

BTW, cutting and grinding fluids aren't any different.

If I needed to go to manufacturing, I'd take off my shoes and put on safety shoes. Not that a chairborne ranger like me needed safety shoes. However, not ruining the car's or house carpets was common sense...
 
Mineral Oil

I just got a brainstorm. I keep a bottle of mineral oil on hand for those uh "difficult times" and noticed it was a very light viscosity (as well as clear). I have been using ATF that has been heavily contaminated with a lot of black carbon fiber from my locking torque converter so it's almost black and hard to see through. So on a hunch clear light mineral oil may work very well in my valve grinder I just ordered a gallon just to try it. What's another $15 when I have well over $500 invested in this machine?

Mineral oil has many uses other than for constipation. Uses like hydraulic fluid and for a light machine lubricant or for lubricating clocks. It is a byproduct of the process of turning crude oil into gasoline and it's very cheap. So I thought I'd try it just to see how well it performs in my antique Black & Decker.
 
Mineral oil is not grinding lubrication.. Its flash point is 182F.

"【Inhalation】
Get medical aid immediately. Remove from exposure to fresh air immediately. If breathing is difficult, give oxygen.【Skin】
Get medical aid immediately. Flush skin with plenty of soap and water for at least 15 minutes while removing contaminated clothing and shoes."

White mineral oil(8042-47-5) MSDS Melting Point Boiling Point Density Storage Transport

There is something called MSDS:
"A Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) is a document that contains information on the potential hazards (health, fire, reactivity and environmental) and how to work safely with the chemical product. It is an essential starting point for the development of a complete health and safety program."

I suggest you read it before you head out to reinvent the wheel using unsafe lubricants.

TBTR, you truly live in a world of your own. Again. before attempting to reinvent the wheel for personal safety. I strongly suggest you use the internet...

OTOH, admittedly, you're fun to read..



 
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Heck, you'll die if you inhale too much water. Life is full of risks so all we can do is minimize our exposure to those risks.
 
I tske it yhis means you're still going to try the mineral oil?


Yep, as you can drink the stuff without dropping dead I figure I can handle it without dropping dead. As antifreeze is barely thicker than water the 10,000+ rpm grinding wheel was whipping it into a super-fine mist that I quickly began tasting. Since the little pump has no problem pumping ATF I figure it'll pump the mineral oil with no problem. The pump is an aluminum casting and over the years the aluminum got VERY deeply pitted so I want to avoid using water or anything that contains water to prevent further damage. I think I'll sandblast the pump again but fill the pits with J B Weld and then coat the entire outside of it.

And yep, I will start tomorrow morning now that all of my parts have arrived. It's only 68 degrees today but it'll be hitting the high 70's to low 80's by this weekend so the weather will be ideal.
 

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