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[toobroketoretire]

My stone dresser was supposed to be spring loaded so when I pushed the handle down it would spring back up all by itself. But it was so darned tight I could hardly move the handle. I could tell someone had tampered with the internal adjustment because the aluminum cover plate had been removed (I could see pry marks on it). So I readjusted it and now it works slick. So this valve seat grinding set is ready to use once I get the 3 new stones.

 

[kpic]

A new exhaust valve is only 3/16" smaller in diameter than an old intake valve.

Might I ask what does that have to do with the price of tea in China?

 

[Tom Bryant]

I like old tools that are in good condition. They have a feeling of quality about them and the look of experience. This equipment should work well for many years.

Tom

 

[toobroketoretire]

My valve grinding set also came with the 3 popular 5/16", 11/32", and 3/8" guide knurling tools but no reamers. As guide knurling vanished once the terrific valve and guide cutting machines came along it gives you an idea how old this set is. But for my home use it's more than adequate. I just ordered a few more carbide burrs because I use them all the time for other projects. If you don't abuse them carbide burrs last a very long time. Whenever I use a burr for extensive metal removal I constantly cool it in oil to both cool and lubricate it. I use a Harbor Freight die grinder that I bought back in the 1970's for $18. I also have a 90 degree die grinder that came with a set of paint polishing tools.

 

[kpic]

TBR
30 degree intake valve seats; as usual you lost me. The 30 degree cut is not the "seal."

Intake: http://www.grumpysperformance.com/instv1.png

Exhaust: http://www.grumpysperformance.com/exvls1.png

multi-angle valve job related | Grumpys Performance Garage

Modern OE engines us a 3 angle (30-45-60). The aftermarket uses more.

Here is an excellent read on the subject:
The Inside Angle on Valve Seats: What you need to know to go with the flow - Engine Builder Magazine


The valve head to insert seal does not locate the valve. The valve guide locates it.

[h=3]LOCATING FOR REALIGNING VALVE SEATS[/h] Several mei.iods are being used today to locate the grinder for realigning and resurfacing valve seats. There is, however, one accepted method that engineering practice has never improved upon. As an illustration, it has been common practice in machine shops for the past thirty or forty years to use what is known as a "machine arbor." This is a piece of hardened and ground steel microscopically tapered from end to end. Whenever a piece of precision work having a hole in the center was brought back to a lathe for machining, such an arbor was used to keep the machine work concentric with the hole in the center of the piece.

The Kwik-Way Manufacturing Company recognized the infallible accuracy of this procedure and designed a Tapered Arbor to be used for centering the valve seat alignment operation. The application of this arbor to the operation of servicing valve seats is covered by patents owned by the Kwik-Way Manufacturing Company and although widely imitated, it is not or should not be made available for this use by other manufacturers.
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[h=3]NONE BUT A TAPERED ARBOR WILL PROPERLY ALIGN A VALVE SEAT RECONDITIONING OPERATION[/h] The Kwik-Way Tapered Arbor, commonly known as a Pilot, is microscopically tapered throughout the stem (the part that enters the guide). When inserted in the guide it takes its alignment from the least worn portion of the guide, which is towards the center, and not from the bell mouth portions on either end. Note (illustration at right) that the arbor does not contact the worn portions A-B at top and bottom of the guide and is not misaligned by those worn portions. It is accurately aligned by the unworn part. The Kwik-Way Eccentrimeter (below) measures the concentricity of the valve seat with relation to the guide. Some of the imitations have a straight surface for the greater portion of the stem with a conical or cork- shaped part for about an inch at the top. Since the valve has been crowded over to one side of the valve guide due to misalignment and the peculiarities of valve spring tension, the wear caused by this crowding of the valve stem to one side makes the top portion of the guide a most unsatisfactory point from which to locate for reconditioning of the seat. The seat cannot be reconditioned and realigned

Valve Functions

You most definitely are not a mechanical engineer because you don't think like one.

 

[kpic]

PS:
This is the tool that cuts the bore for both the guide and the bore for the seat.

Guhring, Inc. - PCD Valve Seat/Guide Bores

One of the "slang" terms for this type of tool is a "profile" tool. It cuts both bores in one operation which minimizes the error between the insert and the guide.

With a finish machined head; an arbor is used to cut the 3 or more angles in the seat which are located by the valve guide.

 

[toobroketoretire]

I was at the automotive machine shop I used to run many years ago and the cylinder head department has a set of closed chamber oval port heads Just like mine) that have had 2.30" intakes and 1.88" exhausts installed. Oddly enough the ports were left untouched as were the sharp corners in the valve pockets. I can't understand why anyone would go to the trouble and expense of having huge valves installed then not touch the ports and valve pockets.

When I install my larger valves I'll do the whole job to get the most out of my heads. I bought new carbide burrs of various shapes and lengths to make the job easier. You can get Chinese-made burrs pretty cheap thru E-Bay and Amazon and if they aren't abused they'll last a long time, The key to making carbide burrs last a long time is to take care to not "bounce" them and keep them cool and lubricated while spinning them at slower rpm's. When I do porting work I use my air pressure regulator to limit the speed of my die grinder. By using around 85-90 psi it's easier to control the burr and make slow steady cuts instead of rapid deep cuts. And then I spray WD-40 onto the area I'm cutting to limit how much powder gets thrown into the air (and up my nose). I also bought a dozen carbide burrs for my Dremel.

 

[kpic]

TBR...
You didn't understand a word of what I or any of the links I said posted.. As most people who read this thread already knew..

.

 

[toobroketoretire]

Back In The Old Days

Back in the 60's and 70's it was common for us to rebuild shaft-mounted rocker arms and grind solid lifters rather then buying new ones. Lifters were ground at different angles depending on the angles ground on the camshaft lobes and we had charts that told us which angle to use. Once ground we then polished the foot of the lifter with a big cloth buffing wheel about 16" in diameter while applying jeweler's rouge. We also arced truck brake shoes to match the drum and I clearly remember standing in a small 12' X 12' un-ventilated room that got so full of asbestos dust I could hardly see the ceiling lights. That was 45 years ago and I still haven't gotten lung cancer which I think is amazing. I think some people are very sensitive to asbestos exposure and some aren't and it appears I am one of the aren'ts (so far anyway).

 

[Toms007]

....I clearly remember standing in a small 12' X 12' un-ventilated room that got so full of asbestos dust I could hardly see the ceiling lights. That was 45 years ago and I still haven't gotten lung cancer which I think is amazing. I think some people are very sensitive to asbestos exposure and some aren't and it appears I am one of the aren'ts (so far anyway).

I've often thought about that as well. I never did the brake re-arching, but used to pull those brake drums off and use air pressure nozzle to blow the dust out of the brake components and the shop would be full of asbestos dust. I can remember blowing my nose after those times and just blow out black crap for days. :W

I guess we were (at least so far) the lucky ones.

 

[toobroketoretire]

Good Black & Decker 11/16" Super Service Automotive Valve Refacer

If you are interested in seeing the old Black & Decker valve refacer I bought Google the title of this post and click on the top link and then click on "Original Posting". From the looks of it I would guess it was made in the 1930's or 1940's because of the way it was made and the style of toggle switches it still has. All of the motor ID plates say 110 volts AC/DC and the wheel head motor appears to use brushes. The work head is driven by a jack shaft using 4 pulleys with VERY worn original belts. As I like old mechanical things this will be really fun to restore to good working condition.

The close-up rear view of the jack shaft pulley appears to have something sticking out of it's hub and I'm trying to figure out what that something can be. Also notice the complete use of pan head screws instead of hex head bolts which further indicates 1930's to 1940's manufacture. After I sand and repaint it and replace the electric switches and cords it'll look a lot better. Also note the VERY unusual electrical plug that has one cord sticking out of the side of it. I think I'll change it to dual 3-prong receptacles with steel cover plates to "modernize" it.

It appears to be 100% complete which is good because I doubt I could ever find used parts for it (other than the v-belts).

 

[toobroketoretire]

Odd Pilot

One of my pilots has a huge 1.033" stem diameter and I'm wondering if it's for a flat head Ford V8 or maybe a Jeep. I haven't ground the seats on a flat head Ford in 45+ years so my memory has faded. It has a Black & Decker part number stamped into it so maybe I can Google that number and see what it's for.

 

[toobroketoretire]

Vintage Black & Decker Valve Grinding Machine

I picked up my vintage Black & Decker valve grinding machine this afternoon and the moment I got it home I dove into it to clean it and lube it. It is in excellent condition considering how old it is and is 100% complete. All three of it's motors have brushes and all three are able to run on either AC or DC current. The stone used for grinding valves is in excellent condition but the stone used for grinding the tips of the valve stems has been worn a LOT from someone using it to sharpen drill bits so it has a deep groove in the middle of it. No big deal as I have a new one coming. And all three of it's belts appear to be the original belts and they are SHOT. As other machines of this vintage are selling for $750 to $800 I came out okay.

 

[toobroketoretire]

My Black & Decker valve grinding machine is coming out fantastic. I completely stripped it and painted almost all of it's parts. I'll take a few pictures after I get it rewired and assembled. The red paint is still a little bit soft so I'll give it at least another 24 hours to cure. All three of it's motors will run on either 110 volt AC or DC current. It uses three 3L-210 belts which are REALLY short. I may never use it but it'll look really cool and I've had a blast working it over. I like old machinery and this is certainly old.

 

[82ColEd]

How is this related to a Corvette C3 again? :confused

 

[Antz81]

How is this related to a Corvette C3 again? :confused

Only about half of what tbtr posts is c3 related. Maybe less

 

[bill81vette]

How is this related to a Corvette C3 again? :confused

It's not but he has nothing better to say

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[kpic]

It's not but he has nothing better to say

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

Bill: I believe you have covered it quite well..

TBR:
"The Dayco FHP Utility V-Belt is designed for use on lawn & grounds, home, farm or shop applications."
CARQUEST by Dayco Utility V-Belt 3L210: Advance Auto Parts

 

[Toms007]

It started out as C3 related, but has, kind of, gotten sidetracked.

 

[toobroketoretire]

Problems

I had ordered two carbide burrs about two weeks ago and ONE of them arrived on the 19th. I asked the seller why only one got shipped and he told me if it didn't show up by Monday the 26th he'd send me another one. Well, it didn't show up on Monday so I asked him to send me another one and now he's telling me it's MY job to find out where the missing burr is. I have the original "soft pack" envelope the first burr came in and it has "3 ounce" printed on it; indicating the maximum weight that soft pack is designed to hold. Well, as one burr weighs almost 3 ounces I would think it would be impossible for two of them to be shipped in the same envelope. Is it possible TWO packages were shipped with both of them bearing the same tracking number? I sure wouldn't think so but I'll check my mailbox and see if by some miracle my missing burr arrived today. I think the seller is trying to screw me over and E-Bay will have to step in and resolve this problem.