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Bahhh !! Cranks but won't start.

Aha!! New developments:
Now she's talking to me,
she's throwing codes:
code 22 - TPS low volts at idle - gotta have that scoped.
code 44 - Exhaust something (I know one muffler is holed).
I consider this a good sign, even possible errors are better than her being mute.
gonna check the other sensors too.
Anything's better than screwing with the injectors.

But I'd still like to know how to remove the connectors on the injectors so I can check ohms, I can do that.
 
Before you pull your injectors, check your Water and air temp sensor. Most likely the H2O sensor.

Do you mean the same h2o sensor that feeds the temp guage? Is the air temp sensor part of the MAF unit?
 
not quite sure which ones you have, but if they are quick release just squeeze both sides of the connector and pull wire off, or if it is the wire clip across the top,, just push down on the wire clip and pull it off.
 
Do you mean the same h2o sensor that feeds the temp guage? Is the air temp sensor part of the MAF unit?

You know, at this point you would be better off taking it to a place that could put it on a machine and check all the sensors at once. Guess work is just going to cost you more money!! :confused
 
USE A DIGITAL VOM ON THESE CARS!!!!

I would surely check/adjust the TPS voltage. It is not hard to do as described or you can buy a plug-in adapter that allows probing the voltages.

I would also reset the ECM (block learn) by disconnecting the lead to it for a minute or so. I believe it is a smaller red wire near the (+) battery terminal, with an inline connector. You could also accomplish this by disconnecting the battery, but you may lose radio memory, etc. I am not sure if it has had enough run time to learn bad adjustment values from the 'bad gas' but this is free and easy.

You can also check the resistance off each injector with an ohmmeter: 16.5 ohms.
 
My current plan is to have my mechanic check out all the relevant sensors/features. It's too much for me to attempt without experience/tools. Since the drained fuel was clear of debris/clogging particles I'm less convinced it was fuel at all. I did save a coupla gallons un a container just in case I need evidence.
I did stop using ethanol/gas though. I didn't know there was a Gulf station in town that never sells ethanol. I noticed an immediate and pleasant difference in my Jeep Wrangler.
I can now run up "7-mile-hill", a twisty 5% grade, in 5th gear and maintain 75 mph. I had to use 4th before.
I even had to back off on some turns or risk rocking. Woot!!!
I never realized how much ethanol killed speed.
I'm looking forward to making that same run in the Vette.
I could do 110's before, with real gas maybe i could make 130's. he he he
Of course going DOWN the grade at WOT would be nutz. :)
 
As I mentioned before, guess work is just going to cost you more money, just have it checked, and get some answers! Good Luck!
 
No need to spend $1000 we can clean your injectors for $15 per injector, or you can purchase a set of the "new style" Bosch Designlll injectors. We have them for $150.00 per set. We have sold hundreds of them to corvette ownere and we have gotten fantastic feedback on them! www.southbayfuelinjectors.com

Would those Design III injectors be compatible with my present wiring harness/caps? I'm just planning ahead in case I do need to replace them, I'm trying to not replace any more than I really need. Some times these projects snowball and get outta control.

(Like just last week when I tried to fix a leaking faucet - every time I progressed something else crumbled away. I ended up cutting the pipes down in the cellar and capping them. Now I have to brush my teeth and shave in the kitchen. So much for my plumbing ability.)
 
Would those Design III injectors be compatible with my present wiring harness/caps? I'm just planning ahead in case I do need to replace them, I'm trying to not replace any more than I really need. Some times these projects snowball and get outta control.

(Like just last week when I tried to fix a leaking faucet - every time I progressed something else crumbled away. I ended up cutting the pipes down in the cellar and capping them. Now I have to brush my teeth and shave in the kitchen. So much for my plumbing ability.)

;LOLDon't feel bad, a buddy of mine was trying to fix a light switch, every time he turned on the switch his wife's vacuum went on!! ;LOL

Yes, the design lll's are bosch/ford injectors with EV1 connector. We have them in various sizes. Still think your best bet is to get a good mechanic to make a diagnosis first! Let me know how you make out.
 
Nothing further yet. Had to fix the Jeep when the brakd pedal went to the floor. I must be living right: The vette took me all over the county shopping and then crapped and wouldn't start after I stopped at a hardward store right in town - close enough to walk home and get the Jeep. Then the Jeep showed no symptoms until after I finished shores and stopped for coffee at a diner in town. I noticed the brake pedal crapped as I backed out from the lot, used the parking brake to stay in control as I drove to the mechanic's - two blocks from my house.
The Jeep is OK now, the vette is next on the list. Maybe another session with the mechanic this week yet.
I think my Christmas budget is in the toilet though.
My mechanic has a sign in his place that says:
"If it has tits or tires - it's trouble". He should knowm he's on his 3rd wife.
Later dudes. Thanks for all the advice and help,
it's mych appreciated. I'll keep on posting this saga.
 
No need to spend $1000 we can clean your injectors for $15 per injector, or you can purchase a set of the "new style" Bosch Designlll injectors. We have them for $150.00 per set. We have sold hundreds of them to corvette ownere and we have gotten fantastic feedback on them! www.southbayfuelinjectors.com

I guess I'm having a "stupid" day I didn't find injectors for my 89 vette on your site. I think I'm gonna just go ahead and get a set. Can you help me find what I need?
 
I checked out the injectors under "chevy" at the southbay site and only found rebuilt injectors for a 1989. How do these rebuilt injectors compare against new ones in terms of useful life? What parts are replaced? I never had great luck with rebuilt auto parts like alternators and starters, so I've learned to spend the extra money and buy new.
 
I checked out the injectors under "chevy" at the southbay site and only found rebuilt injectors for a 1989. How do these rebuilt injectors compare against new ones in terms of useful life? What parts are replaced? I never had great luck with rebuilt auto parts like alternators and starters, so I've learned to spend the extra money and buy new.

I'm with you. I've never had good luck with rebuilt anything. I'm better off biting the bullet and getting new stuff, either OEM or sometimes better than OEM, if appropriate.
 
Fuel injectors

I checked out the injectors under "chevy" at the southbay site and only found rebuilt injectors for a 1989. How do these rebuilt injectors compare against new ones in terms of useful life? What parts are replaced? I never had great luck with rebuilt auto parts like alternators and starters, so I've learned to spend the extra money and buy new.

I am sorry, I misunderstood, did not realize that you were interested in new injectors. We carry new Lucas injectors, what size are you looking for?
New injectors/rebuilt in comparison are close to being equal in longevity.
In our experience along with feedback from other rebuilders who have been in business longer than us have found that out of all rebuilt injectors, 1-2% have electrical failures. Once they are rebuilt they meet manufacturers specs on flow. Our injectors flow to within 1% or less. After placing the injectors through our 14 step cleaning process we replace all o-rings, screens, spacers, and pintle caps.
Hope this was helpful. We will try to help you in any way that we can!
 
Not in the market for new injectors. Prior owner took care of that. Was just interested in learning how well rebuilt injectors perform.
 

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