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Brake bleeding a tool available

Thanks for the info!

Ordered the universal one that came with the 1101 adapter. My MDX takes the 1101, as do my Hyundai and Camry, so that works. I'll let you know how my homemade adapter turns out. Now to make one for the Harley...

Vaughn
 
Sealawyer If you cant make it I can.ship me your cap if you need to ,Good luck
what type of fluid are you going to use
 
Used it yet?

I am eager to hear about your actual use. My 66 racer just got a fresh rebuild of the J56 system and uses DOT 5. At 20 bucks a quart, I hate to use up a lot of fluid. The brakes work, but the pedal goes spongy after a hard run.

Also just got done rebuilding and flushing one of my delivery vans DOT 3 systems. That bleed and flush took over an hour and the pedal still feels a little soft. Used the pump the pedal method. My girfriend hates pumping that pedal!!

I need a better way. Let us know when you do the job. Thanks!!
 
So HOW DID IT WORK

EXCELLENT! I still had a half a gallon of the dot 5 so I stayed with it.I used less then 3/4's of a quart to bleed the entire car encluding flushing .I replaced the rear brake lines and hose's.


My fault but I chipped my paint with the quick connectors.I connected the unit,tested as per there instructions,Filled it up with fluid,pumped it up to 10 psi MAX and then just went to the furthest port and just slowey bled untill I got clean clear fluid.

This was too easey to do.I had my son watch the pressure gauge and he had to only pump it once. THis realley was a very simple process and I recomend the unit to others.I purchased the magnum unit because I wanted the larger size (figuring the useual use a 1/2 gallon for a bleed) and I wanted the quick connect's(the ones that scratched my car) Any ways I paid 99.00 plus shipping.
With connecting the unit.testing the unit,using the unit,then disconecting the unit and putting it away it took me less the 20 minute to do an entire bleed.(keep in mind the car was allready up on a lift and the rear tires were off.

The only thing I made a slight mess was disconecting the adapter

Below is my son watching the gauge for me .

I also went out and purchased 2- 18" lenghts of 3/16 clear tubing to make this project easyer
 
Sounds like I need this tool.

Just to clarfy, the additional tubing you bought was used in the traditional bleeder to jar hook up?

Do you now have a firm pedal after hard braking using silicone (DOT 5) fluid ?

Is this the answer to all the brake system stress I have been dealing with lately?

Please tell me yes, or at least a solid maybe...
 
Please tell me yes, or at least a solid maybe...

Just to clarfy, the additional tubing you bought was used in the traditional bleeder to jar hook up?

Yes I wanted enuff hose to leave them both connected to the rear bleeders so I would not have to keep switching them.The greatest thing is you dont have to keep refilling the master cylender with the fluid you removed.(most of its airated and thats why we have so much trouble getting air out of our cars )

Do you now have a firm pedal after hard braking using silicone (DOT 5) fluid ?

I realley have never done any hard braking to know if I have fade or not.I had a post about using dot 5 fluid and from a link some one had posted it seems dot 5 is a better fluid for agressive braking

Is this the answer to all the brake system stress I have been dealing with lately?

If you have air in your brake system. DEFINATELY this tool will remove it easeyly No questions asked here

Please tell me yes, or at least a solid maybe

As for your problems.I have heard from others,That if your rotor are not trued with you bearing in the rear that the brakes calipers pulse (actually pump in and out) because of them being out of true .This airates the system and also cause'e brake fade.any chance this is your problem?

Again all I can say about a power bleeder is that It made quick work of a treaded brake bleed,I dont know if there are better units out there but as soon as I seen this one I bought it
 
Thanks for answering questions

All I know is I hate bleeding brakes. Sounds like this rig is worth trying. I appreciate your comments.

I have 4 midyears and use silicone fluid in all of them. Three have solid firm brakes. A pita to install and bleed, but finished with great results.

I know the effects of rotor run out having "been there" with one of the other cars years ago.

This black racer with the J56 is the tough one. Rotor runout is non-existant. I think it is a presistant air problem. The pressure bleed will certainly be a help. Next week I plan to order the unit. But for now....

Off to Bloomington Gold for some work and fun!!!
 

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