1
1981
Guest
Was driving around Galveston, TX when my Brake Light (warning light) came on. Read the manual, and this means I lost my power assist function. I drove the car back to Louisiana, the brakes worked fine manually, but you could tell they were a little weak. Putting the car in neutral at a stop light then back into drive would not create that drop down of the rear affect, just a flat push forward of the whole car. I really had a problem. I like the drop down affect!
Well, I checked the master cylinder, this was full, front and rear. I stuck my head under every wheel well, saw NO leaking. About 2 days later I had time to bring it into my mechanic I started using. At the mechanic we checked the master cylinder again, the rear was low. This is good, means the problem is probably in the rear. My wife needed me at the house so I left the car and waited for their report. Later that day I get a call, the master cylinder is bad going into the booster. Great, lets change it, cost is going to be $189 parts/labor. The master cylinder I had was only 3 years old. But you never know I guess. About 2 hours later I get another call, we found the left rear caliper bad, it is leaking fluid all over. Another $200. OK, can't argue with that, but what about the master cylinder? Didn't question it at the time, but after thinking about it, is the master cylinder really bad if the leaking is coming from the caliper? To me the master cylinder is just a resevior, and does NO mechanical function, I'm guessing here, am I right?
My question, how do I find out if my master cylinder was "shot gunned" changed and then the real problem was found and fixed when they started to bleed the system? I really hate throwing $200 away. So, what is the best way to go about it?
Next issue, the mechanic then tells me, "I noticed a funny sound coming from your left rear tire. Might be your U-joint." I have never heard a sound coming from this area, I drive the car everyday. But he tells me, "the sound begins when you step on the gas." Still haven't heard this while I drive it.
My left front brakes have been sticking sometimes and I get a "shhhick, shhhick, shhhick" driving through a parking lot and probably even at high speeds, but I have taken this wheel off and spun the rotor and verified it is the brakes sticking a little. (how do I fix this? I just chalked it up as too small to worry about)
Although I would like to have a quite ride when driving close to spectators.
So how should I treat the U-joint case? How do I verify that this may be an issue? I really do not want to spend another $400-whatever on something that the mechanic knows he can scare me with. As we know these older cars have all sorts of, "well, those front whatever always go bad, and when they do, look out to your pocket book. or Those back (inertial dampers) don't look too good, you may want to replace the flang bolt flaps with newer graybar tork handle loops." You get my picture. I thought I could trust this mechanic, and maybe I can, my father has used him for years, about 15. But I do understand this car can be a money maker in fixes for the right mechanic. But also remember my car has been frame off restored pretty well about 5 years ago. Everything under the car was replaced new. And only about 20,000 miles have been put on it since. But it did sit during winters in Wisconson.
What do you think I should do about the master cylinder? How do I verify the U-joint problem so that I don't chase a dog up the wrong tree? Any good mechanics in the Lafayette, Louisiana area that you know of?
1981
Well, I checked the master cylinder, this was full, front and rear. I stuck my head under every wheel well, saw NO leaking. About 2 days later I had time to bring it into my mechanic I started using. At the mechanic we checked the master cylinder again, the rear was low. This is good, means the problem is probably in the rear. My wife needed me at the house so I left the car and waited for their report. Later that day I get a call, the master cylinder is bad going into the booster. Great, lets change it, cost is going to be $189 parts/labor. The master cylinder I had was only 3 years old. But you never know I guess. About 2 hours later I get another call, we found the left rear caliper bad, it is leaking fluid all over. Another $200. OK, can't argue with that, but what about the master cylinder? Didn't question it at the time, but after thinking about it, is the master cylinder really bad if the leaking is coming from the caliper? To me the master cylinder is just a resevior, and does NO mechanical function, I'm guessing here, am I right?
My question, how do I find out if my master cylinder was "shot gunned" changed and then the real problem was found and fixed when they started to bleed the system? I really hate throwing $200 away. So, what is the best way to go about it?
Next issue, the mechanic then tells me, "I noticed a funny sound coming from your left rear tire. Might be your U-joint." I have never heard a sound coming from this area, I drive the car everyday. But he tells me, "the sound begins when you step on the gas." Still haven't heard this while I drive it.
My left front brakes have been sticking sometimes and I get a "shhhick, shhhick, shhhick" driving through a parking lot and probably even at high speeds, but I have taken this wheel off and spun the rotor and verified it is the brakes sticking a little. (how do I fix this? I just chalked it up as too small to worry about)
Although I would like to have a quite ride when driving close to spectators.
So how should I treat the U-joint case? How do I verify that this may be an issue? I really do not want to spend another $400-whatever on something that the mechanic knows he can scare me with. As we know these older cars have all sorts of, "well, those front whatever always go bad, and when they do, look out to your pocket book. or Those back (inertial dampers) don't look too good, you may want to replace the flang bolt flaps with newer graybar tork handle loops." You get my picture. I thought I could trust this mechanic, and maybe I can, my father has used him for years, about 15. But I do understand this car can be a money maker in fixes for the right mechanic. But also remember my car has been frame off restored pretty well about 5 years ago. Everything under the car was replaced new. And only about 20,000 miles have been put on it since. But it did sit during winters in Wisconson.
What do you think I should do about the master cylinder? How do I verify the U-joint problem so that I don't chase a dog up the wrong tree? Any good mechanics in the Lafayette, Louisiana area that you know of?
1981