Brake System Parts Advice

[wolf_walker]

Brill rotors? You mean drill out the rivits that hold them on? Baa, to $$$ for two minutes a wheel with a drill.

Otherwise it sounds about right. I'd do what I could at home, about what 77-4speed said, except I'd try the hard line replacement just for the heck of it.


And if you DO do all this at home, you can take the cash saved on labor and buy youself some rear bearing assemblies with the rotor already matched to them, problem solved, bolt them right into your t-arm and your set with the rear bearings which will go out just as soon as your done with the brakes, acording to Murphy's Law.

 

[Hijinx]

All the parts are coming from VBP. I would have no problem doing the job, it does not look that hard. I just not sure I can set the run out, and getting her up to someone who can after I did all the work would be an issue. I sure hate paying over $1000 for work I know I can do. Still contemplating.

 

[Hijinx]

OK, let me throw a real twist into this discussion. I know that my T-Arms are too rusted to rebuild. So, I am looking at having to buy another set. Has anybody tried Guldstrad's 5 bar rear suspension setup? I know its $2100, but the local shop said to replace my arms was going to run me aroun $2000 anyhow. I know I am thinking too much, but hey.

 

[wolf_walker]

You sure the t-arms are totally rotted? It's possible, but those things are expensive, Van Steel can rebuild them with new bearings, rotors with runout already set and new parking brake hardware for this..

http://www.vansteel.com/Rebuild/tarm.html

Or just the bearing and rotor for $225 a pop like I did.

If your stuck finding new t-arms they will likely run $2K for a pair built, be sure yours are bad! Maybe you can find a used set to send as a core to vansteel or someone like that.

Dunno about the 5 bar setup, if you go stock again i highly recomend atleast the VB&P adjustable lower link's to make alignment easier.

 

[Hijinx]

Already running VBP adjustible link. In fact full suspension.

 

[77-4speed]

You can pick up the trailing arm with bearings for $219 a piece from zip. I don't see a core charge listed anywhere. Unless I'm missing something, you could just throw on your rotors and transfer the hardware and your good to go. Maybe I'm wrong but $2100 seems like a lot of cash that you don't need to spend

 

[wolf_walker]

Zip's arms are here..

http://store.yahoo.com/zipproducts/zip-su-118.html

That's bare with only the bushing, not a bad price, but you have to add the hub with bearing, parking brake stuff and a rotor to that.

Figure $438 for a pair, $450 for rebuilt rear wheel bearings with a matched rotor to bolt into those new T-arms, plus parking brake parts, that's a grand or therebouts, and there pretty easy to assemble, minus the stinking parking brake, which there's probibly some trick to it.

I looked at flat out new t-arms with bearing and rotor, but it was cheaper to piece them together like that as I recall.

He could stick his old bearings back in there, but sure as s*&t after a week of driving they would start acting up, you know how things usually go....

 

[77-4speed]

True, true. I think our cars really do have feelings. Because If you pull an assembly of parts off of the car and replace some, but not all of the parts, the ones that weren't replaced break! It's like the car is saying, "If you don't love me enough to fix all of me than I'm not going to love you either." Prissy little B!!ches.

Still, the zip route is much less expensive than the $2000 the shop quoted you.

-Russ

 

[wolf_walker]

That $2K is almost exactly what a pair of complete new arms already dressed from Ecklers($$$) are going for, that probibly explains them..

 

[Hijinx]

How Hard Is This?

OK, guys, help me understand something. I think everyone I have talked to has told me how hard it is to replace the hard lines. How the body has to be removed and all. I just got out from under the car and they are right there. Does not look easy, but doesnt look like anything that is that tough to remove. Am I missing something? Granted, they run through the cross member, but that can be removed if necessary. Thoughts?

 

[wolf_walker]

See my reply to your thread about the hard lines..

 

[mgms_1968]

Hijinx,

When I bought the hard lines I had the same problem. Need to lift the body off so I could replace the line.

Instead of doing that I did something else. I bought a 12" long piece of Aeroquip TFE racing brake line (-04 size) and two brake fittings (also -04). One fitting is a 45 deg fitting and the other is a 90 deg fitting. When the hard line starts to make the bend around the rear cross member I cut the brake line near the top, re-flared the end, and used a brake line to -4 AN fitting adapter. I also had to use male brake line adaptor for connecting the line to the distribution block.

It took a little bit of work but I got it all to work.


Also as for the trailing arms.

I would recommend that you take the trailing arms out of the car and have those items rebuilt. While you are waiting for the rebuild you can complete all of the other brake work.

This is my 2 cents.

 

[69Crazy]

Brake fluid

I noticed in an earlier posting that someone mentioned the use of silicone brake fluid. Give that a lot of thought unless you race your car extensively. Silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) has better heat tolerance; but, it is difficult to get the air out of your brake system. While DOT 3 fluid does adsorb moisture from the air, necessitating replacement, there are many stories about brake failure due to entrained air in the silicone fluid. If you elect to go with silicone, make sure that you, or the shop you choose, are fully competent in the use of DOT 5. DOT 3 will perform very well under all but the most adverse conditions. Flushing the system every year in very moist enviroments or every other year will prevent component corrosion from contaminated fluid.

Just what I discovered from some research......

You might give Bair's a call, they rebuilt my trailing arms and did a fantastic job. (800) 421-9644. Make sure that your rotors are turned with the hubs. It is essential that the job is done correctly. You want to prevent rotor pulse and the sucking of air into the system. That is why the rotors are rivited to the hubs from the factory.

Good luck!