bunch of engine questions here...

[Chas]

i have my edelbrock performer manifold being glass blasted , trying to shine it and save a few bucks...im looking for opinions on gaskets for the engine...over the summer i had a leak in a valve cover so im not sure if i had the right one in it...the right type.....i didnt use sealant when i installed it, it was thick cork , (felpro i think) and i didnt think i needed to ... so when i saw the leak i used the blue rtv stuff...and it went away .
i have a few questions if anybody has advise , i would appreaciate it deeply.

is cork the right gasket for the valve covers? (i have chrome gm covers with chevrolet stamped in them.)should sealant be necessary ?
what about the intake manifold gasket? is one kind better than another? and will the blue rtv stuff be good for around the coolant ports in the manifold gasket?
i want to get new bolts for the engine...im looking at package deal for the engine, polished stainless with bowties on them from summit...do i torque them the same specs?
should i use loc-tite or anti-sieze on any of these screws or bolts?
any opinions on the orange anti-freeze?
i have more but this is plenty for now....thanks again in advance for your advise and opinions...chas

 

[Dave L.]

I use cork gaskets. I use a little #2 permatex (non-hardening) to adhere the gasket to the valve cover. I usually will let them sit a while and then install. I put them on dry (no sealant between the head and the gasket). Never had one leak yet with this method. If the valve covers are tin instead of aluminum,you also might want to use some of those spreader bar type retainers which put even pressure on the valve cover.

 

[Jack]

Burglar's VC advice is good ... follow it. Do use both antiseize and loctite ... but it depends on where ... some places neither. Stainless motor bolts will torque same as OE. Use only old school green antifreeze ... flush & renew every two years and you'll be golden.
JACK:gap

 

[Culprit]

Whatever you chose, just don't mix the green and orange anti-freeze. It will turn into a thick gel when mixed. Good ole Zippy Lube did that to a friend's VW and it blew the water pump.

Semper Fidelis,
Culprit

 

[Chas]

many thanks fella's ... it always helps to have this kind of advise in my toolbox when i start to go.
im sticking with the green anti-freeze.....why not use the rubber end pcs when i re-install the manifold...they were there when it came off....just need to understand why i should do with out...i was thinking the super blue 2 rtv was the good stuff....the ultra is a step up further?
thanks again to everyone for there help here.chas

 

[AKRAY4PLAY]

if your lucky the rubber inserts will seal up. GM stopped using them for dealer repair, swapped to RTV Ultra Black. the black repells oil and stands up to heat. arguably the best silicone sealant on the market, just make sure your sealing surfaces are CLEAN! i use some starting fluid to prep the area before laying a bead, let the bead skin up before installing the intake. be carefull not to shift the intake front to rear when placing. it also helps to use some Gask-A-Sinch (spelling?) to hold the intake gaskets in place, just a couple drops at the ends should do. rubber cement used very sparingly also works to hold the intake gaskets in place. Brian

 

[Chas]

thanks a lot brian...

this will come in very handy ... hopefully this weekend...soon as i get the manifold back from the blaster!

if your lucky the rubber inserts will seal up. GM stopped using them for dealer repair, swapped to RTV Ultra Black. the black repells oil and stands up to heat. arguably the best silicone sealant on the market, just make sure your sealing surfaces are CLEAN! i use some starting fluid to prep the area before laying a bead, let the bead skin up before installing the intake. be carefull not to shift the intake front to rear when placing. it also helps to use some Gask-A-Sinch (spelling?) to hold the intake gaskets in place, just a couple drops at the ends should do. rubber cement used very sparingly also works to hold the intake gaskets in place. Brian

 

[resto75]

When you clean up the end sealing surface under the intake manifold I take a small piece of fine emory cloth and clean the surface with that and lacquer thinner. Just keep any trash out of the engine. I would also use the black RTV for the intake and then give it overnite to dry before starting the engine.

 

[Chas]

thanks ...

When you clean up the end sealing surface under the intake manifold I take a small piece of fine emory cloth and clean the surface with that and lacquer thinner. Just keep any trash out of the engine. I would also use the black RTV for the intake and then give it overnite to dry before starting the engine.

this stuff is invaluable pal!

 

[AKRAY4PLAY]

one last thing i forgot to mention. if you have a distributor with o-ring grooves, use o-rings. most blocks are not machined for the o-rings and cut the o-rings when you install the distributor, i use a thinner 95 duro viton o-rings. it will work with unmachined blocks, just install and remove a couple times to make sure you don't have shreaded o-ring chunks floating around in the oil system. by sealing the dist shaft, you prevent oil from squirting up and "pressure washing" the rear valley to intake area. this greatly reduces the chances of developing a leak at the rear of the motor. good luck with the project. Brian