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Bypassing Ignition Lock?

Spiderman

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2002
Messages
139
Location
Grand Haven, MI, USA
Corvette
Gorgeous White '91 Coupe
Hello all!

Does anyone know a way to bypass the ignition lock tumbler to get the auto trans into neutral? My ignition key will no longer fully enter or engage the lock, therefore I cannot start the car or get it into neutral so I can get it on a flatbed to get the car to my repair shop.

Dealing with mechanical problems is one thing, but this is paralyzing. I'm screwed.

Thanks, Ed
 
Is it the lock or the key causing the problem ?
You can take your vin number to the GM dealer and they can make you a new key for about $25
 
No. The key is fine. It only goes in the cylinder half way. I thoroughly sprayed it with silicone lube to try to free up the tumbler, but it was unaffective.
 
If I remember correctly you need the key in the lock to remove it. Think there is a small hole that you insert a pin into with key inserted to remove it. You don't know a dar thief do you ? HA HA. With a good bit you can drill them out. Would think someone would have a better sulution . You could jack the car up, unhook the shift cable and put it in neutral but that still would allow you to stear it. Good luck .
 
I was thinking that when I started righting the thread. I'm not a theif though. She's got over 97k miles on her so the lock is pretty well used. it hasn't been driven for the last 6 weeks, so the car has been sitting for a while. That was why I lubed it, due to it may have just gotten stuck by not being used.

I'm in the middle of a huricane right now so I was going to pass the time in my garage, trying to get the car in neutral (or freed up to start). I'm not brave enough to disassemble the column, so Monday if the storm blows over my shop said I could tow it over. I not taking any chances with the airbag.

I figure (worst case senerio) it could be dragged on to the flat-bed truck. I'd rather not due that though.
Ed
 
Lock Cylinder Bypass

The lock-out is to the driver's side of the shift linkage inside the console.
Pop the shifter button out with a knife (at the rear, I think) then remove the snap ring to remove the shift knob. One member recommended placing a plastic bag over the shifter while removing the snap ring since it usually tries to go into orbit during removal.
Remove the console door (there are dimples in the cover hinge for alignment during re-install) then pull the carpet from the bottom front of the console interior. There are two screws near the front of the 'glove box', another under the cup holder (I don't remember any others but watch out for other screws). Pull the shift linkage cover gently rearward then upward to remove it. Note how the gear indicator engages its pointer so you can get it right upon reassembly.
Once the cover is off, look to the front driver's side of the shifter (down in the hole) to see the lock-out solenoid. Push the plunger out of the slot with a 'proper tool' and you can get the car out of gear.
This sounds like a lot of stuff but once you've done it, no more than 5 minutes is required.
 
Update: It's now 11-13-04 and I'm finally back home long enough to really get around to fixing this lock. Well, having my repair shop www.corvettemasters.com replace my ignition lock.

I got the center console apart this morning and released the Park Lockout Cable. I can now put the car in Neutral.

On to problem two. The Lockout on the Steering column. My repair manual is very non-specific on this, anyone had to do this?


Thanks,

Ed
 
The cable from the transmission selector has to be pulled towards the shifter (I believe you have to pull it, instead of pushing it - I can't remember right now. ;shrug). Then you have to secure it somehow, then it'll release the column lock.
 
Thanks, Ken I'll give that a try. I'll keep you all posted.
 
OK - so what my feeble man brain has calculated is that the cable I released at the shifter is exclusive to the lockout for the transmission. The cable doesn't pull past the released position.

My mighty Haynes manual only refers to this under anything having to do with the steering column lock. It's a different beast that I'm guessing for "indirect theft training" reasons is not disclosed.
I was feeling like I was making progress too.
 
My suggestion...Take the column out of the car and ship it to these people. http://columnsgalore.com/ They will fix it in one day and ship it back to you the same day. Its really not that hard to remove the column. Then you go to U-Haul buy a Lamp box, put the column in there, fill it with styrofoam peanuts and ship it.
Here is a site to help you remove the column...look at the bottom of the page

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/suspension/t_steering.html

You are driving yourself nuts for nothing. They will tighten everything, and replace anything broken. and paint it.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. This has really just become a mystery I have'nt solved yet. My sanity is well intact. The Vette will be towed on a flatbed on Wednesday, but it's parked in my garage at an angle I'm trying to make it as easy as possible to get it on the truck.
 
So the problem is trying to turn the wheel? ...If so, disconnect the airbag if your car has them...don't want them exploding on you. If you look under the dash along the side of the column, you should be able to see a metal bar running along side. I think if you disconnect that and pull it, it should allow you to turn the wheel. Before you disconnect it, try moving it up and down while rocking the wheel.

.02
 
If it doesn't "pull" then it "pushes" to release the column lock. ;)

My scanner isn't working at the moment, so I can't show you with an image. The cable should be the only thing connected to your shifter on the interior side of things. Granted, I've never worked on a '91 column so there may be something I'm missing. ;shrug

Jon's on the right track if you want to rebuild your column. :CAC
 
Spiderman said:
The Vette will be towed on a flatbed on Wednesday, but it's parked in my garage at an angle I'm trying to make it as easy as possible to get it on the truck.


How about buying or borrowing a set of 4 wheel dollies to get the thing straightened out and moved?
 
[QUOTE= She's got over 97k miles on her so the lock is pretty well used.

I would be will to bet that you have the key on a key ring with many keys.
What wears out the ign locks is the weight of the keys and the bouncing while driving & turning the ign on & off. If you have only the 2 keys and a light key ring & nothing else the life span of your lock is greatly increased.
 
Not sure if I understand the question.
most GM are the same. pull the wheel.
you will need a special tool that will allow you to remove the locking plate.
once thats off, you will have to remove the turn signal ring.
after that! you will have access to the ignition lock.
It's been a while since i did this. I belive it is held in place with one torx bolt.
It's not a hard job, just time consuming. just don't loose any of the C-clips.
I went through this on a cadillac a few times when the VAT wires kept breaking off the lock. After two tows.. I bypassed the VAT. problem solved!
 

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