C-5 wont start, no power to anything

[Pags]

So im having an issue with my 98 c-5 and dont know where to go from here. I recently took the ignition module out from the dash to clean the contacts up to see if that was causing my intermittent starting issues. Well it seems i made it worse, not only does it not start now, but now something is not letting power to anything in the car. No radio, dash lights, windows, nothing. And when I put the key in and turn it nothing happens, its just dead. As soon as i hooked the battery back up after putting the ignition back in, i immediately heard a fast ticking sound coming from the front of the car, and the only other sign of life is the security light flashing real fast but also real dim on the gauge panel. Battery is good, no blown fuses, and all the grounds are good. Im stumped on where to go next.

 

[dadaroo]

I assume you mean you removed the Body Control Module (BCM)? Can you pull any DIC codes?

 

[Pags]

No i pulled the ignition switch out, took it apart to clean the metal contacts inside. Didnt touch the bcm at all. No i cant pull any codes, for some reason the dash, as well as the entire car has no power. Except for a faint security light on the dash.

 

[dadaroo]

Normally issues are with the electrical contacts on the back side of the ignition switch, not the mechanical switch. The mechanical switch does contain the VATS system contacts in order for it to read the resistance of the ignition key to allow the car to operated. Sounds like you may have hosed that up.

If you did, there is a way around it though. You can measure the resistance of the key and then buy a resistor of about the same value and put it in place of the key in the wiring. You should have noticed the two wires when you removed the ignition cylinder.

I also have a method to completely bypass/jumper the system to start and drive the car if you want to do that for trouble shooting to see if it will crank and run.

Here is some key resistance info:

Key# Value (Ohms) +/- 10% of these values will work.
1 392
2 523
3 681
4 887
5 1130
6 1470
7 1870
8 2370
9 3010
10 3740
11 4750
12 6040
13 7500
14 9530
15 11800

 

[Pags]

Yea i was thinking that too. But would that cause the weird symptoms i have going on even when the key isnt in the ignition? Like the security light flashing really fast? How would i bypass the entire system?? Id love to do that lol.

 

[dadaroo]

Here is the info to get around the Security to crank and run the car. YOU MUST HAVE THE CAR IN NEUTRAL IF YOU HAVE A MANUAL OR PARK FOR AN AUTO..



Here is a way to jumper the car to start and drive. Go to Post 66 and read about jumpering the Theft Deterrent Relay.

The jumper is just used to get the starter going to fire up the engine. Remove it as soon as it fires since the starter is engaged when the jumper is in place.

You can test it first with the ignition OFF to see how it gets the starter turning. Then with the key in ON you can crank and start the car and drive off.

I know several people that have used this and it worked perfectly.



http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-tech/3369906-i-am-completely-stumped-ipc-out-4.html

 

[LLC5]

So im having an issue with my 98 c-5 and dont know where to go from here. I recently took the ignition module out from the dash to clean the contacts up to see if that was causing my intermittent starting issues. Well it seems i made it worse, not only does it not start now, but now something is not letting power to anything in the car. No radio, dash lights, windows, nothing. And when I put the key in and turn it nothing happens, its just dead. As soon as i hooked the battery back up after putting the ignition back in, i immediately heard a fast ticking sound coming from the front of the car, and the only other sign of life is the security light flashing real fast but also real dim on the gauge panel. Battery is good, no blown fuses, and all the grounds are good. Im stumped on where to go next.

What is your battery voltage with a quality voltmeter hooked up to the battery terminal studs, AND the ignition switch turned to the "on" position?

 

[Pags]

I have a pdi 920, it reads the voltage on the battery at 10.62 today after a little trouble shooting the other day. As soon as i hook up the terminal studs it goes down to 7 volts, the security light starts flashing really fast on the dash,and i hear a clicking sound coming from behind the driver side front tire.no change in anything when i turn the key. I had to mess something up under the driverside dash. Thats the only part of the car i messed with. Im going to pick up some resistors tomorrow and also try to bypass the secirity system to see if i can at least get it started for a little.

 

[LLC5]

I have a pdi 920, it reads the voltage on the battery at 10.62 today after a little trouble shooting the other day. As soon as i hook up the terminal studs it goes down to 7 volts, the security light starts flashing really fast on the dash,and i hear a clicking sound coming from behind the driver side front tire.no change in anything when i turn the key. I had to mess something up under the driverside dash. Thats the only part of the car i messed with. Im going to pick up some resistors tomorrow and also try to bypass the secirity system to see if i can at least get it started for a little.

You found at least one of your problems (and possibly all of them), the battery is either low on charge or bad. 10.62 ad 7 volts are bad. You need to charge your battery to full charge, AND then after fully charging have it properly load tested, and replaced with a good "properly load tested new battery" (yes, have any new battery that you just bought load tested by the seller before purchasing) if the old one is bad. Let us know what you find. Good luck with it.

 

[Pags]

Sounds good! i'll get it taken care of tomorrow and see what happens

 

[LLC5]

Sounds good! i'll get it taken care of tomorrow and see what happens

One more thing, make sure that your battery cables are clean and tight. After cleaning and tightening the cable bolt, make sure that you cannot twist the cable ends back and forth by hand, sometimes the bolt can be tight and the cable is still loose on the battery terminal. Good luck with it.

 

[dadaroo]

DON"T charge the battery in the car with the negative cable installed. The square DC waves from the charger cannot be filtered with a really dead battery and you can damage the electronics.

 

[Pags]

I just measured my key so i can get some resistors today. Measured 5.97 kohms. Sound about right to anyone? Im guessing that would be in the # 12- 6040 key category(acceptable range 5798-6302)

 

[Pags]

Ive already had the charge this 30 day old battery 4 times now. Im going to exchange it for a new one today as well, and get it tested before i leave the store.

 

[dadaroo]

Have the battery load tested. My guess is you have a battery drain and it is not the battery.

We need to know with a FULLY charged good battery what issues you still have. You probably will not need to install resistors unless your rework of the cylinder damaged the contacts.

If you have a battery drain we can help you diagnosis it. A fully charged battery should last without running the car for up to 3 weeks.

 

[Pags]

I had it charged and tested friday by the firestone on base, they said it was good. I checked it this morning and it read 10.52 volts. Only had it hooked up for about 5 mins the entire weekend. When i do hook it up it drops to 6.5 volts immediately and i get a weird clicking sound coming from the front of the car, by the radiator somewhere, cant pinpoint exactly where though. Its about the same speed as a turn signal but a little faster. That didnt happen until i decided to take the ignition apart. So now i unplugg the battery when im not trying to trouble shoot what i did wrong bc the clicking sound keeps going as long as the battery is plugged in. I figures id try the resistors just to eliminate that as a problem, along with a new battery. And then bypass the system just to get it running so i can try to pull codes.

 

[LLC5]

I had it charged and tested friday by the firestone on base, they said it was good. I checked it this morning and it read 10.52 volts. Only had it hooked up for about 5 mins the entire weekend. When i do hook it up it drops to 6.5 volts immediately and i get a weird clicking sound coming from the front of the car, by the radiator somewhere, cant pinpoint exactly where though. Its about the same speed as a turn signal but a little faster. That didnt happen until i decided to take the ignition apart. So now i unplugg the battery when im not trying to trouble shoot what i did wrong bc the clicking sound keeps going as long as the battery is plugged in. I figures id try the resistors just to eliminate that as a problem, along with a new battery. And then bypass the system just to get it running so i can try to pull codes.

The clicking sound you hear is more than likely caused by your low battery voltage and can be normal, don't worry about it - yet. Get a known good battery in the vehicle with clean and tight battery cables (no twisting by hand) and see what happens. All the symptoms you have described can all be caused by low battery voltage. Good luck with it.

 

[dadaroo]

Where are you reading battery voltage?

We need a reading at the battery using a voltmeter. Reading on the IPC could be low because of the ignition electrical switch which can then provide lower voltage to the electronics. Very common issue.

I would not worry about the key resistance issue at this time unless you just want to eliminate using a key resistance.

 

[Pags]

Im reading it directly off the battery with my voltmeter. I cant read it off the ipc bc the entire car has no power. (except for that stupid clicking sound)

 

[LLC5]

Where are you reading battery voltage?

We need a reading at the battery using a voltmeter. Reading on the IPC could be low because of the ignition electrical switch which can then provide lower voltage to the electronics. Very common issue.

He did. See post #8.

With low battery voltage the ignition switch cannot be properly diagnosed.