C2 carb question

[brumbach]

A year ago I bought my vette. It came with NOM engine, 327/350 hp. I replaced the holley carb with an edelbrock 1604 series, 600 cfm carb. I did this because the holley was giving me fits, i.e., only started when it wanted to, flooded routinely, had dead spots, etc. The edelbrock I bought came highly recommended. I've got to say, the car runs extremely well, plugs are clean, and it never fails to do what it's suppose to do when it's suppose to do it! But I have a new problem. The edelbrock carb combined with the gm/holley high rise intake manifold conflicts with the hood. I knew it was a tight fit but have discovered that the hood is beginning to separate from its framing. Obviously the hood is pressing down on the "correct" air filter. To correct, I have a few options. 1) install a big block hood...dumb idea and costly too. 2) Change the air filter...can't get much slimmer than the correct one and besides, wouldn't look original. 3) rebuild the the holley...might do it but will always doubt the reliability. or 4) change the intake manifold to a lower profiled type that would resolve the conflict with the hood.

At this point, I've decided to explore the last option. I'd like to use a edelbrock intake with the edelbrock carb but can't seem to get a handle on which version of intake to use that won't take away performance. Can anyone recommend an edelbrock intake manifold or holley intake that will, inconjunction with the edelbrock 1406, 600 cfm provide the best performance for the car while offering proper clearance for the hood?

 

[65 Sting]

Brumbach, My advice is to have your Holley rebuilt by a pro. Edelbrock carbs and intakes are good, but they do not work well in low profile situations. If you must try them, then go with the Performer RPM intake. DO NOT go with the Performer Air Gap intake. It's 1/4 " taller than their other intakes. Also the low profile air cleaners for Edelbrock carbs, aren't as "low" as Holleys air cleaners. You can't fit a Holley low profile cleaner on an Edelbrock carb either. Good Luck

 

[studiog]

Couldn't you shave a 1/32 or 1/16 off your existing intake, or try a thinner gasket? It doesn't sound like you need too much if you can already close the hood.

 

[ctjackster]

The edelbrock carb combined with the gm/holley high rise intake manifold conflicts with the hood. I knew it was a tight fit but have discovered that the hood is beginning to separate from its framing. Obviously the hood is pressing down on the "correct" air filter. To correct, I have a few options. 1) install a big block hood...dumb idea and costly too.

The 65-66 BB hood is not such a dumb idea, and it would only become more costly than some of your other options when painting/matching costs are involved, of course, it would not be correct . . . .

signed,

a 65 SB with a (65) BB hood . . . .

 

[WayneC]

I'm with 65 Sting: rebuild the Holley, they work fine when properly set up... no expense for purchasing a BB hood and repainting it, you already have an air cleaner, and you can sell the Edelbrock to recover some of the rebuild cost.

They're not hard to rebuild yourself, or try:

Bob Kunz 314-845-2566 (MO)
Carburetor Works 315-662-3055 (NY)
Holley Carburetor http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/Sales/CustShop/CustShop.html
Custom Rebuilt Carbs http://www.customrebuiltcarbs.com/

 

[brumbach]

I just purchased the rebuild kit. I'll try this first. Wish me luck. Bill

 

[65 Sting]

Brumbach, Good Luck.... Let us know how it turns out!

 

[brumbach]

Okay guys I need help on the rebuild. I need a choke thermostat for the holley. Just returned from the local parts place and after an hour going through holley parts manuals, they came up empty. The holley I'm rebuilding is a 4160 series, 585 cfm. The list number is 3367. The OEM # is 3884505. Can you help? What's the best online source to buy this item? Thanks, Bill

 

[BarryK]

Okay guys I need help on the rebuild. I need a choke thermostat for the holley. Just returned from the local parts place and after an hour going through holley parts manuals, they came up empty. The holley I'm rebuilding is a 4160 series, 585 cfm. The list number is 3367. The OEM # is 3884505. Can you help? What's the best online source to buy this item? Thanks, Bill

I looked on the Holley website for you and even found your carb. they list it for the '66 'vtte w/ 327/300 -350 motors.
In their parts listing they have the choke thermostat retainers but not the actual thermostat. you may want to try calling them direct.

Contact Holley Tech Service at:
(270) 781-9741, fax: (270) 781-9772

or:

All Holley carburetor related questions:
carburetor@holley.com

hope this helps

 

[Grizzly]

After having trouble with my Holley, I went with a BG Road Demon 625 cfm. Same dimensions and it runs like a champ right out of the box

 

[brumbach]

Well I've found the choke thermostat at Ecklers, Paragon and Zip. Can't believe the price of the spring @ $20 -26. My spring looks to be okay but the rod is bent way out of shape. I'll buy an new rod. Is there any way of determining the status of the existing spring?

 

[WayneC]

Try Dr Rebuild (they have a disclaimer that catalog prices may not be current, though):

http://docrebuild.com/dr-r-web/CHOKE.PDF

Long island Corvette also carries those parts:

http://www.licorvette.com/pdfcatalogfiles/cat22/22.pdf

 

[brumbach]

The rebuild is moving right along. All is back together but have a question regarding the jets. They both have the number 65 on them. Are these correct or should I change them? The carb was running too rich when I changed over to the edelbrock. From what I've read, adjusting the holley is accomplished both by the air-fuel screws and also the jets. I know how to tweak the screws but know nothing of the jets (other than how to change them). Any suggestions beyond changing them out until I achieve optimum performance, what other jets should I have at my disposal? Thanks again, Bill.

 

[Rowdy1]

A Little Late Now But............

Did you consider a drop base air cleaner? I went through a similar situation a few years ago and was able to clear the hood by using one.

 

[magicv8]

I swapped to a 65 intake with a Carter carb ( that the Edelbrock is based on). Great carb. Extremely reliable. No leaks. Swap to a low rise manifold and enjoy life.

 

[brumbach]

Where did you get the air cleaner? Don't know how well this holley is gonna do after my makeover. Might need to reinstall the edelbrock if I'm not successful.

 

[Rowdy1]

Summit Catalog

I bought mine from Summit Racing but they're all over.

 

[magicv8]

My air cleaner uses a bb lid or a MrGasket lid interchangeably. The base is from an 80s full sized Chrysler with a 2bbl.

DZVETTE has a complete aftermarket cleaner assembly on the Edelbrock on his 65. He uses 2 inch tall filter elements instead of the 3 inch tal BB elements that I use. He posted pictures of the cleaner on the edelbrock a few months ago.

 

[JohnZ]

The rebuild is moving right along. All is back together but have a question regarding the jets. They both have the number 65 on them. Are these correct or should I change them? The carb was running too rich when I changed over to the edelbrock. From what I've read, adjusting the holley is accomplished both by the air-fuel screws and also the jets. I know how to tweak the screws but know nothing of the jets (other than how to change them). Any suggestions beyond changing them out until I achieve optimum performance, what other jets should I have at my disposal? Thanks again, Bill.

#65 are the correct original primary jets, and the secondary jets are #76; it shouldn't run rich with #65's unless the air bleeds are dirty/clogged, or the power valve is leaking - I'd leave the jets alone and concentrate on getting the carb absolutely clean while you rebuild it. The mixture screws on the side of the front metering block are only for adjusting idle mixture - they have nothing to do with the main metering system.

 

[brumbach]

#65 are the correct original primary jets, and the secondary jets are #76; it shouldn't run rich with #65's unless the air bleeds are dirty/clogged, or the power valve is leaking - I'd leave the jets alone and concentrate on getting the carb absolutely clean while you rebuild it. The mixture screws on the side of the front metering block are only for adjusting idle mixture - they have nothing to do with the main metering system.

Got it! Everything is clean or has been replaced. Unless I've missed something, it ought to work right. I'll install next weekend and hopefully be back in business. Thanks