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Car cranks but doesnt start

I'm with Hrtbeat1 on this one, replace that little harness. That same area has often failed since the HEI came out.


Glenn
:w
 
Thanks for the info guys, where might i find this harness at?
 
Don't think thats the problem, but then again i've been proven wrong many times before. Test the existing harness with ohm meter before spending 77 dollars. If the chewed wire is between the module and pickup coil then yes, but I think your talking of the wires going to the ECM. The ECM got nothing to do with spark while cranking the engine, the module handles that. The ECM only takes over spark timing above 500 or something revs. The ECM uses the signal from one of those wires to fire the injectors, but you don't have a fuel problem. Go read page 3 and 4 of next page, very interesting: http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt26.pdf
Just my opinion, probably worth nothing.
 
That is some good info but i removed the egr a while back because it was giving me nothing but trouble. I also had my prom burned to disregard the egr. The car ran fine for several months like this.
 
Read page 2 and 3, that's about the workings of the ignition module. Did you check the pickup coil, remember everything starts with the pickup coil.
 
A new Direction

I had the same crank no start on my 93. Yes I know it has opti and you have a distributor. The one thing your engine and mine have in common is the TPS. Mine went bad (Did not code) it sends a message to the ECM that the engine was flooded and in wide open throttle to clear the cylinders. Under this condition the ECM shuts down the fuel rail until engine clears and starts, then it returns fuel to the fuel rails. You might try spraying carb cleaner into the front of the air intake to see if the engine sputters when you turn it over. If it does and runs try disconnecting the TPS and restarting the engine. I hope you find the answear soon and will give us a post on the solution. :beer

Before I discovered my problem it cost me a new ECM that I did not need.
 
Read page 2 and 3, that's about the workings of the ignition module. Did you check the pickup coil, remember everything starts with the pickup coil.

The purple wire that he was refering to is the R terminal (HEI ref pulse) if the ECM is not getting that then the solid state relay will never close and allow the ECM to take over spark timing. It would be constantly trying to run off of the ignition module itself.

The timing of the distributor may be off enough that the ignition module is not able to get the car to run on its own. I think replacing the distributor terminal board would be the best place to start, especially since you already found one bad wire in it.

:pat
 
Okay i see what you mean now, I thought the pickup coil and ingnition coil were the same thing. Would i have to replace the entire distriubter if this is bad?
 
If the pickup coil is bad you can replace it, you may have to take it to a shop that specializes in distributor rebuilds. I don't know how hard it is to replace.

:pat
 
Well i just put in the new harness and the car still wont start i guess ill look into the pickup coil and find out more about that
 
On my 86 I have had a problem with the anti-theft (resistor matched key)
could you possibly have a problem there?
Tom
 
will the car still crank, i thought it wouldnt do anything if it was vats related. How do i check the vats system or is there a way to bypass it?
 
will the car still crank, i thought it wouldnt do anything if it was vats related. How do i check the vats system or is there a way to bypass it?

On my 86, it will crank, and continue to crank, I do not know what you can test to see if it is the VATS.
Tom
 
Have you tried your spare key? It could be the resistor. I had one go bad a year ago. You can bypass it by adding a resistor under the dash not sure on wire color. Do you have an add on remote start if so they bypass the vats to get them to work and allot of them go sour down the road. If you go to one off the remote start sites they will give youi instruitions on where to put the resistor. You will need to get the resistance from your key and match it. Remember this removes the security from your car that the vats system gives you. Also try unhooking the battery cable for 5 min and then hook it up that will reset the computer.
 
So what's going on, did you get it started? let us know where you are with the problem.

- Tom
 
I have been working a lot and its still getting dark early so i havnt done much with the car, i hope to get the distributer back in sometime this week. I hope thats the problem if not ill look into the vats system. I put up post after the disb. is in and let you guys know what ups, thanks for the help.
 

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