Have Engine,Trans etc. also have questions need answers please.

[Gerry]

Hi,
I finally received my engine from Shafiroff and it looks beautiful, I will post pics later. I have a few questions and I hope someone can provide answers.
What is the fuel line size from the pickup in the gas tank to the motor?
The car is a 67 427/390 all original. Is it 3/8" or what?
Will the original line be big enough for a 540 CI 675 HP motor?
Does anyone make a Aluminum flywheel with steel or carbon fiber insert (must be for internally balanced motor) and has anyone used this kind of flywheel with this type car/engine. The trans is a Keisler TKO 600 5 spd. with Sachs HP clutch supposed to be good for 650 HP.
Would the use of a Lakewood scatter shield be necessary or just a good idea?
The car will be limited to possibly 8 inch wheels with street/strip drag radials no bigger than 255 x 50 or 60 x 15. I know this will be the limiting factor to getting the power to the ground. I have a Be Cool Aluminum rad with 3350 CFM elec fan, Stewart high flow waterpump, driveshaft loop, halfshaft loops, 420 lb monospring, heavy duty diff cover, racing camber struts, HD offset trailing arms, Aluminum rear mount frame bushings, polygraphite bushings everywhere, 550 lb/inch front springs, and will have a full 6 link susp soon.
Is there anything else that would help?
Thanks for all the help so far and I still hope to have this ready for Carlisle.

Best regards,
Gerry

 

[stepinwolf]

A little help

Gerry, look's as though you are building a pavement pounder, so here are a few more morsels, that might just help keep everything together.

For starters, in this responce, I have included links to just about every supplier that is mentioned , but to properly follow the reply, it might be better to read through the complete post, before going off to visit each and every web-page mentioned

For starters I must applaud the effort you are expanding with the loop's on both the drive shaft, and half shafts, but it might be better to do everything possible to keep them in place, rather then just contain them after they have broken off. I would strongly recommend you replace not only the stock drive shaft, but also the half shafts.

I am also in the process of this type of build, and I found excellent replacements for these shafts from " Dynotech " at the following http://www.dynotechengineering.com/. They can supply them in dom steel, chrome-moly, or aluminium. The latter are the units I ordered for my own use, and they are very cost effective.

On the other hand if you prefer to have your own made up locally, you will need to get in touch with " Mark Williams " at http://www.markwilliams.com/. There , you can purchase the tubing, the HD weld Yokes, along with high strength U-joints that will stand up to the worst punishment you can dish out.

While on the subject of U-joints, everyone and his dog are familiar with the Spicer 3150 U-joints that are non greasable. Few are aware that there is a stronger version called " HD High impact " U-joint's, that are also available from Mark Williams.

From those in the know, there is also another U-joint manufacturer that has the same type of HD U-joints, and these are made by " SKF". I am told that the joints they supply are without a doubt, the most precise, well made, and strongest U-joints available. The part number is 2-0053BF, and the BF stands for BRUTE FORCE.

Next on the menu is the rear differential. It's an improvement on your part to install the HD cover, but you make no mention of the inner workings. For any intensive use, " Tom Differentials " http://www.tomsdifferentials.com/tomp.htm will sell you the high strength Ring & Pinion, and the HD steel caps that keep all this together.

While on the subject of differentials, there is another Tom, that you want to speak to. He is the owner of " International Axle " http://www.internationalaxle.com/, and there are two different parts from him that are a must. The first are the HD side yokes, that you will need to complete your differential, rebuild, and the second, are the HD aircraft/steel rear axle's. If the car is to be abused, I would definitely not neglect these last two items.

Yogi's Bair's http://www.bairs.com/ still have new HD spindle flanges, and " Moroso " http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=44012 will be happy to sell you some HD U-joint Girdles, that will keep your U-joints seated firmly in your drive shaft, and on the car.

I have tried to cover most of the HD stuff that you did not address in your post, but there are other Forum members who could certainly add to the above assortment of parts. In the complete drive train, I have found HD replacement parts for every item that makes up the drive train, with the exception of the half shaft flange. I have searched as best as I can, and nowhere could I find any HD replacement version of this small fragile part. On the other hand I have been told that is will stand up to a lot of abuse as long as the recommend angle for it's joints is not exceeded. Maby someone else can comment on this part, but I have never found any substitute.

Hope this helps, sorry for the lengthly response, but I had a lot of items to address

Stepinwolf


Trash your BB Corvette as if each day was your last.

 

[Gerry]

Dear Stepinwolf,

Thank you very much for the info (more data is always better). Some of the items you addressed I had already taken care of but there were quite a few that I will certainly use. It was especially easy given the links you provided. One thing that I purchased that might interest you in your project is a set of carbon fiber halfshafts from Vansteel ($700), not cheap but guaranteed to 1000 HP. Again, thank you for your help and if you think of anything else give a shout.

Be Good or Don't Get Caught!
Best regards,
Gerry

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Heh Gerry,

Man that sounds like one sweet ride your building. Sounds like you have covered all the bases.. As the Wolf has mentioned ..you can never be to safe when building High HP cars. It's always best to use the strongest parts available in key locations.

Keep us posted on your build...I know I like to follow projects like yours and Stepinwolf's..as I am sure others on this forum do . It's always great to see another Vette owners expression of what they see in their minds eye. Good luck with your build.....

 

[stepinwolf]

Changed my mind

Hey VNV,

You say you like to hear about us guys building projects with the big motors, well do I have news for you. Remember a little while back I asked that you include me in your 502 group, well you can now officially count me out. Yep, I sold the engine today, before even having installed it in my car, so I should no longer be considered 502 material. :nono

However all is not lost, I just placed an order for a new 620HP 572 crate engine, from the General. They say cubic inches is what it's all about, well I will try to do my part with this new engine.

When it does finally get in, I will post a few pics.

Stepinwolf

 

[67HEAVEN]

That's it. I'm going for a 632 inch twin-turbo Merlin. Outta the way suckers!

:gap

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Hey VNV,

You say you like to hear about us guys building projects with the big motors, well do I have news for you. Remember a little while back I asked that you include me in your 502 group, well you can now officially count me out. Yep, I sold the engine today, before even having installed it in my car, so I should no longer be considered 502 material. :nono

However all is not lost, I just placed an order for a new 620HP 572 crate engine, from the General. They say cubic inches is what it's all about, well I will try to do my part with this new engine.

When it does finally get in, I will post a few pics.

Stepinwolf

Cool... You Know what... I was thinking of doing that just before I droped the 502 in... Then I thought about how much more I'd have to add to keep from twisting the frame and lunching the 1/2 shafts up to the space station...

Congrats ..and start working on that extension to raise the hood up for the air cleaner to clear....

Or..Maybe you could have gone with the 572R..720 HP..:L

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

That's it. I'm going for a 632 inch twin-turbo Merlin. Outta the way suckers!

:gap

 

[stepinwolf]

Cool... You Know what... I was thinking of doing that just before I droped the 502 in... Then I thought about how much more I'd have to add to keep from twisting the frame and lunching the 1/2 shafts up to the space station...

Congrats ..and start working on that extension to raise the hood up for the air cleaner to clear....

Or..Maybe you could have gone with the 572R..720 HP..:L

VNV,

I actually though long and hard on my choices, of weather to " R " or not to " R ", but although I want it to be radical, I still want to keep it street-able, and the fuel necessary to run the 720 ( 12-1 ) is not something I can live with around here.

I hear everybody complaining about the price of gas having been pumped up to 3$ a gallon. Well, Hello,,, around here ( the great white North ) it's already more them 5$ bucks a gallon, Ouch ! :cry and that's for 87 octane, ( which won't cut it ) so there are not many choices left for me, if I want to drive the damm thing.

Thanks for your compliments VNV, I do appreciate hearing some encouraging words.

Stepinwolf

 

[66 Red Rocket]

Drive Shaft Dia.?

I am running the original chicken bone 2" drive shaft in my 66 coupe with a warmed over 502 & Richmond 5 speed. What dia. drive shaft will fit in that narrow space where it lives? I would like to run a 3.5" aluminum unit, will it fit? Thanks John

 

[magicv8]

You may have to remove one of the seat belt anchor nuts to get it in place. The limiting function is the rear ujoint. I had a 4 inch and it was tight. I raised the body of my car 1/2 inch to get more clearance last year, but it's a pita to reset the bumper brackets.

 

[67HEAVEN]

I am running the original chicken bone 2" drive shaft in my 66 coupe with a warmed over 502 & Richmond 5 speed. What dia. drive shaft will fit in that narrow space where it lives? I would like to run a 3.5" aluminum unit, will it fit? Thanks John

John,

See Chapter 15. Three photos near the bottom of the page.

Yes, it was a tight fit but it works.

 

[Gerry]

You Guys are BAAAADDDD,

I thought about the 572 and even the 706 Big Chief but they all use the tall deck block which will not fit in the 67 without modification of the hood and I wanted it to look stock, a real sleeper. Still don't know if it will be ready but I have high hopes. Definitely the rear will not be finished so even if it is running I will have to be careful not to leave lots of rear end parts on the pavement. Thanks for the encouragement as I took some heat up here for not going with a NCRS type resto but I drive this car a lot (20,000 miles/year) and really enjoy it soooo there. See you at Carlisle.

Be Good or Don't Get Caught

Best regards,
Gerry

 

[Gerry]

Check out my post #36 from 1-27-04 in thread "looking to go beyond 502 with short deck" for the ultimate engine!


Gerry

 

[JohnZ]

Here's the solution for street torque, but it DOES require minor modifications to package it

 

[stepinwolf]

Here's the solution for street torque, but it DOES require minor modifications to package it

John, while were at it, do you think I could hook up a turbo to it

Stepinwolf

 

[67HEAVEN]

Here's the solution for street torque, but it DOES require minor modifications to package it

I'm already having trouble keeping the tires from breaking loose, John.

 

[JohnZ]

John, while were at it, do you think I could hook up a turbo to it

Stepinwolf

That big V-20 diesel already has two huge turbos - 12,000 hp, 18,000 ft-lbs. of torque, and 20 shiny valve covers to keep clean

 

[Gerry]

That's the ONE for me, but will it fit under the stock stinger hood????

Best regards,
Gerry

 

[BarryK]

Gerry
you may need to fabricated new motor brackets to lower it about 1 1/16" or so to make it squeeze under a stock stinger hood......... and you may still need to use a dropbase air cleaner