HEI distributor testing

[bobmo]

Greetings all.
I have a 1974 coupe. The engine was replaced with a 1972 400Cid, and the Tranny is Auto.
I bought her as a basket case that "had run", so know she is my challenge.

So far I have replace the fuel pump and the fusilbe link. Now I have fuel and power to the starter. The distributor is HEI coil in the cap, PN 1103376.
I have a new cap and rotor, and I have some spark.

It hasnt run yet for me, just one back fire.

My question is: How do I tell if there is enough juice going to the plugs, and where does the wire called "bat" on the distributor cap come from?

I have the manuals but this combo is not listed, and I havent found the answer in the past forums, So I throw my self to your learned mind.

Thanks
Bobmo

 

[chevyaddict]

Greetings all.
I have a 1974 coupe. The engine was replaced with a 1972 400Cid, and the Tranny is Auto.
I bought her as a basket case that "had run", so know she is my challenge.

So far I have replace the fuel pump and the fusilbe link. Now I have fuel and power to the starter. The distributor is HEI coil in the cap, PN 1103376.
I have a new cap and rotor, and I have some spark.

It hasnt run yet for me, just one back fire.

My question is: How do I tell if there is enough juice going to the plugs, and where does the wire called "bat" on the distributor cap come from?

I have the manuals but this combo is not listed, and I havent found the answer in the past forums, So I throw my self to your learned mind.

Thanks
Bobmo

Ok - if I understand you correctly you originally had a point distributor and now you have replaced that with an HEI (which I always do).

The wire for the "BAT" is the wire that would normally go to the resistor (the white thing bolted to the firewall). a separate wire goes from there to the "BAT" on the HEI. HEI's are internally regulated with resister and that is why you don't need this anymore. BELIEVE ME, if you have this wire hooked up you are getting enough juice. HEI's put out plenty of power. However, if you are getting a backfire then you must have it hooked up correctly and it is just that your timing is off or you have the distributor set in there a tooth off.

To check this, take out the number one spark plug and while somebody is bumping the car over (slightly engaging the ignition switch to just "bump" the engine over), put your thumb on the number one spark plug hole. As soon as you start to feel the pressure coming out, your harmonic balencer should be lined up close to 0 on the timing mark. If it isn't then the distributor is in wrong.

Cheers
Dawn

 

[bobmo]

Thanks

Thanks Dawn
I have inherited all these engine mysteries from the previous owners mechanic.
He did a wonderful job of painting the engine compartment black too, Thereby making tracing wires a treat.
I will check to make sure I have a good connection for the Bat wire and that I dont still have the resistor in the loop.

Is there anyway of checking the output of the distributor?
I am just getting a weak spark from the plugwires, and would like to check anything I can.

Bob mo