mmvette80 said:
The 1980 305 had the ECM not the 350? I went to the local auto parts stores and the weight kits are a different shape from 79-80.
No, neither vac nor mech advance need replacing on regular basis. But ... the ignition curves they govern are usually very poor for performance ... so replacing the can & springs with ones of different ratings will change that curve & usually improve both economy & power ... again I am referencing 71 thru 81 C3 ... points or HEI. I highly recommend Lars papers on this subject ... they are archived here at CACC & elsewhere. Vacuum cans often fail after many years ... their rubber diaphragms eventually leak ... yielding vacuum leak and/or little or no vac advance. Also, time & lack of lube will wear out or sieze mech advance.
I cannot answer with certainty exactly which HEI 80 thru 82 C3 has ... 305 or 350. Maybe there's so many variances it's impossible to package a kit that fits all GM V8 HEI. However, if you have a vac can ... check out the Lars papers & choose an appropriate can. Also, if you have a mech advance (that has two small coiled springs under rotor) ... then check out Lars papers and choose an appropriate mech kit ... maybe use ONLY the springs ... lighter springs will bring in the mech advance sooner (usually a good thing).
This is my general understanding of C3 HEI ... it’s probably NOT exactly right, corrections welcomed!
75-79 C3 ALL had HEI w/ both vac & mech advance.
80 C3 NON-California had HEI w/ both vac & mech advance.
305 C3 California had modified HEI ... lacking mech or vac ... or both.
81 C3 NON-California had modified HEI ... lacking mech or vac ... or both.
82 C3 had computerized fuel injection and lacked both vac & mech advance.
If your 80 has both vac & mech advance ... and you want more economy & power ... and are willing to forsake emissions ... I’d change the vac can & the springs ... lighter springs from a 79 & back HEI kit SHOULD work fine. Read the Lars papers for choosing a better can. You’ll need a dial-back timing light or a regular light & fully-degreed damper (timing tape) to properly set up the curve. Or a shop that has a distributor machine ... they’ll place your distributor into their benchtop machine & set curve ... then you put distributor back into your car.
BTW, I changed the springs & can in a buddy’s 80 Suburban 350 w/ HEI having both vac & mech advance ... suburban tows a trailer & light race car. Made a very nice improvement in both power & economy. I did not change the weights.
Also, I understand Lars offers a performance kit specific for your year-engine vette that includes select, specific vac can & springs. Considering the time Lars spends researching & selecting specific parts ... at about $40/kit his kits are a bargain for most folks.
JACK:gap