Help, 3 mechanics and car still dies out..

[Bender]

All them say they have fixed it but after about an hour it dies out in traffic. I just bought a new carb being told that it will fix it 100% and it still dies out. If I turn the idle up alot it does not have the problem any more but idles to high and wastes all my gas. Im not sure what it is but all the mechanics I have taken it to and alot of people have told me the engine is built really well, its an edlebrock 350, brand new. The only 2 things I can think of is 1) Air filter to small, it has the smallest air filter they make for it. 2) the muffler is clogged. But those are just my gusses since I am no mechanic. Before it dies out the oil presussure will drop to 45 then 40 then the car just dies. So I dont know whats up with that. Can any one help?


I just got this picture online.. No help but atleast you know what it looks like

 

[atmmac]

Very nice car! I have no idea this doesnt make any sense to me at all. I would assume these mechanics checked your fuel filter but you never know. Im not sure where it is on your vette. Its either in your carb where the line plugs in or on the actual line. The pump could also be shot. Check these both. Sounds like you arent having too much luck with your car. Im sure it will change.

GOOD LUCK
-Andy

 

[Bender]

Thats what I asked my latest mech, it looked like one of the lines is pinched but he said it was fine.. I dont know Im tired of this. In traffic people think I cant because it looks im trying to drive stick but its auto or people think I am showing off because I sit there and rev it so it wont die. The fuel filter looks fine..

 

[73Vert]

Does it die out mainly after making "a run, or driving for a while?
Check your fuel pump, specifically, your return line. Also, for a couple of bucks, replace the fuel cap too. From about mid 70's or so and up, GM made the fuel systems closed, so the pump, return line, and even the gas cap must all be working correctly. Otherwise, the car will just die, like it ran out of gas, which is precisely what it does. The return line and the closed gas cap creates positive pressure from the tank to the pump, to the carb. If it doesn't get this positive pressure, it will literally "run out of gas"

hope this helps!
Paul

 

[JohnZ]

What do you have for a carburetor and distributor/ignition system? I assume you've bypassed the computer...

 

[Bender]

Yeah my brother said it could be the distributor/ignition from not being set right. I have an Edlebrock 600 peformer. "I assume you've bypassed the computer...
" I dont know I did not build it. I dont know what the distributor and ignition is I cant find any writing.

 

[BruceBed]

Yeah my brother said it could be the distributor/ignition from not being set right. I have an Edlebrock 600 peformer. "I assume you've bypassed the computer...
" I dont know I did not build it. I dont know what the distributor and ignition is I cant find any writing.

I had the same problem it, my car would just shut off... It was the fuel filter. It only did it when it was hot.

 

[jclit]

I had a similar problem on a pickup a few years ago. It turned out to be the Coil. I guess it would get hot and crap out, don’t know but after many other parts a new coil fixed it.

Jim

 

[67 Fuelie]

All good posts....also CHANGE ALL rubber/neoprene lines in the fuel system. Could be a line sucking closed on you.

 

[Bender]

Thanks every one..But is there a way I can go at this with out trial and error? I cant afford to replace parts I think that are the problem.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Bender:

After a nice 3 1/2 Hr trip to Watkins Glen last summer,my uncle from Texas and I stopped to eat lunch for 20 minutes and when we went to leave, the old '82 Vette didn't want to!
It had been doing the same thing you describe for a couple of years. It just stalled ramdomly at idle, especially when hot.
After 6 Hrs. and a $260.00 tow job home it turned out to be a bad fuel pump.
It hasn't stalled since.
A 25 year old pump really should be changed. The motor brushes wear out. AND You never know when it's going to go.
P.S. It's in the gas tank,under the gas cap flange.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

I know my '82 has an electric fuel pump in the tank.

Not sure about the '81. If it is a mechanical pump it will be on the lower right front corner of the block with the fuel line running out of it up to the carburetor. If it's electric, there will be a flat plate on the block with the fuel line running past it.
if it is a mechanical pump, it probably isn't the problem. They simply stop working and that's it.
I blew a mechanical pump in Ottawa a few years ago and once again, it's tow job.
Good luck.

 

[Bender]

Well if the fuel pump is in the back then I know it has not been replaced.

 

[Tyler Townsley]

Get a fuel pressure guage and put it in the line to see what the fuel pressuer is doing when the problem appears. That way you know which avenue you have to chase.

Tyler

 

[STREETRODS]

I Went Through The Same Thing O N My 79- After Several Hundred Bucks It Ended Up Being The Coil. Would Work Sometimes, Other Times Just Quit.
Worth A Try.

 

[GerryLP]

Bender,

Next time it dies on you, remove the air cleaner and peek inside the carb air horn for signs of flooding. If you find fuel, then it could be fuel perculation [fuel expanding from the engine heat and bleeding out of the boosters]. Float setting should correct this.

The coil problem is possible, but does it die completely or you can keep it "alive" giving it gas? ...IMHO I believe it's harder to make a coil make a spark while reving the engine, since it needs more time to build-up the current in the primary winding for it to induce the current necessary. However, see if the car dies and won't start at all. If so, then check for spark at the #1 lead when placed close to common ground [like the car frame]. Is it bright blue or yellowish? Try it when engine is cold in the morning and then after it dies.

Being an Edelbrock motor means that it probably has an Edelbrock fuel pump. I don't believe that a fuel return fitting is available in their models. Vapor-lock is possible, so check for fuel lines coming close to heat sources. Test to see if it happens with the gas cap removed. The return line to the tank should be capped if not in use. Heat from the engine causes vapor-lock also. I use a phenolic [paper and resin mix] plate on my car between the fuel pump and engine block.

If I can think of anything else, then I'll chime in.

 

[Bender]

One of my friends brought his friend over who is a mech to look at it and the car is fine till it hits around 170 degree on the temp gauge so he thinks that replacing the thermostat with a 160 thermostat for 4 bucks might fix the problem. But he is almost sure its a heat problem and said it could be one of 3 things 1) Water Pump 2) oil pump 3) Thermostat. Once my car hits close to 200, every time when its in idle the oil pressure will flux alot and then my car will die when it hits 40.

 

[mvftw]

Sounds like a classic HEI module problem...

 

[Jacko]

Thanks every one..But is there a way I can go at this with out trial and error? I cant afford to replace parts I think that are the problem.

Sure there is a way.
Take it to a real mechanic.
It sounds like the 3 you have been too, are not real mechanics.
Pep Boys perhaps? Western Auto?
Go to a privately held/owned garage that employs a well respected mechanic.
You might think you can get it done for less money at these business chains, but usually to wind up paying much more in the end.
I know in my area, upstate N.Y., all these chains employ high school kids who are just learning the ropes.
Well, they can learn on someone elses Vette, never MY Vette.
After alot of years on this planet, I have learned my lesson. I learned how to fix just about anything myself. But it cost me a ton of time/labor, research/reading and money.
But I "love" all things mechanical and some electrical, so it worked out for me.
But if I was young again, had a hot Vette and had a tough urge to just ride, I would take it to someone who is respected as a mechanic.
Word of mouth is very important. I would start talking to many people in my area and with enough good recommendations, I would approach the shop/mechanic and discuss my problem with them.
If I saw they were "interested" in me and "listened closely" to me, I would go for it.
If I was not "hot to trot and just get it on the road", I would take my time and read a few good magazine articles and/or books and learn what I could. Then slowly and methodically I would try to figure the problem out, in the proper order.
Good luck

 

[atmmac]

I would just replace the coil and the pump and see if that cures your problem. It should only be about 20 for the coil. Not sure on the pump price but you will probably end up needing one eventually so it may not be a bad thing to do.

Good Luck
-Andy