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Help, 3 mechanics and car still dies out..

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bender
  • Start date Start date
Well the mech that had it last said he thinks it is dirt in the gas tank and will trouble shoot it for free. But my friend who is a mech said its a heat problem for sure.. So I dont know if I should take it back there and let them waste more time on it for free. Im still going to get charged for any parts that may need to be replaced and I might get charged for labor.. I bought a 160 thermostat like my friend said and Im going to replace it in like 20 min.
 
Please don't throw away the package for your 160 thermostat. You'll need it to return it to the store. It's not the source of your problem and it won't cure it.

You really should take some of the advice from the knowlegeable people here, instead of relying on Bubba and his Bubette friends for some of the wacko things they've come up with so far.

Have you looked at anything people have suggested so far?
 
inductive pickup coil

Your problem sounds alot like one we had on our 78. After several mechanics and many $$$. A nephew (He had owned several vettes and did work on all of them himself and had the same problem) showed us what the problem was. Check the inductive pickup coil. It is inside the distributer under the centrifugal advance.

Ours was the original and it's possible yours is too. When you touched it, you could move it (wiggle) and the wires were frayed. Hence driving down the road coil moved frayed wires shorted out vette died. Once we replace it we haven't had a bit of problem. Hope this helps.:)
 
Vettehead Mikey said:
Please don't throw away the package for your 160 thermostat. You'll need it to return it to the store. It's not the source of your problem and it won't cure it.
Well put ... it ain't the t'stat.

mvftw said:
Sounds like a classic HEI module problem...
I concur. If ignition module ain't the culprit I'd then suspect the ignition coil (module is under distributor cap, coil is in top of cap). If coil ain't the culprit I'd then suspect the fuel pump (probably on side of block). Any/all of these are relatively cheap and easy to replace.
JACK:gap
 
I had a similar problem with my 82. Turns out C3's have a grounding problem with the electronics which will cause you all kinds of heartburn. I put a ground strap between the engine (bellhousing), and the frame and my Intermittent cutting out and not starting went away. Just my suggestion and it can't hurt.

Good Luck
 
I have been having alot of electical problems, like certain things not working for no reason at all then working again a few days latter. Also some times the car wont start for no reason at all. The starter wont even respond so I assume its electical. Maybe it is the ignition?
 
Did not pick up what carb you were running but the process is almost the same.

Replace the fuel filter first. If your fuel pump is old or you do not know the condition - change it. They are not that expensive. Take a old tooth brush and tape it to a long dowel. Get a flash light and look into the gas tank at the fuel pickup or fuel sock. Run the tooth brush all around the sock and scrap off all the buildup and see what happens to the fuel flow.

Good luck on this and let us know.
 
The next time the car cuts out, check to see if you have spark at one of the plugs. If you do then the problem is the fuel system. If you don't have spark, then it could either be the module or the coil, based on the symptoms that you described. By the way, how long do you have to wait to get it started?
 
Well the mech said he would fix it for free and I took it back. I picked it up today and he said the reason it idles like crap is because the engine was built for racing.. Well Im not supprised because I did buy the car for the RaceWay. He just said that it has a high performce cam and it hits really hard or something causeing it to idle like crap. Just about every part in my car is high performcence. I have heard of cars built for racing idle like crap before.. So what do you think is it possible thats the cause for the bad idle?
 
sounds electrical to me, usually when you get a running hot and shuts off the part expands and if there is a slight break in the system,like a coil or pickup, than it will shut off than when it cools down it fires back up. i would put a fuel pressure guage on it and drive it to see if it is fuel or electrical, but to me it sounds electrical, just my .02cents
 
Bender said:
Well the mech said he would fix it for free and I took it back. I picked it up today and he said the reason it idles like crap is because the engine was built for racing.. Well Im not supprised because I did buy the car for the RaceWay. He just said that it has a high performce cam and it hits really hard or something causeing it to idle like crap. Just about every part in my car is high performcence. I have heard of cars built for racing idle like crap before.. So what do you think is it possible thats the cause for the bad idle?
I understand yours is a new Edelbrock 350 crate motor. I question if edelbrock offers a crate motor so "racing only" radical that it won't run in a vette ... maybe it simply needs tuning by someone who really knows their stuff. Just my opinion, but your mechanic may be misleading you. Bite the bullet and check fuel & fire as many have suggested.
JACK:gap
 
Do you know what the specs are for the cam? It may be a long duration cam which isn't good for the street. Rough idle, low vacuum, no low rpm power, fouled plugs, etc. That may explain the poor idle.
 
#1 - Find other mechanics, the ones you are dealing with think you are a mushroom and burying you in BS.

#2 - Keep the guy who said it was the thermostat away from your car, your garage, way-way gone....

#3 - If you do replace the HEI module make sure you use the dielectric grease that goes on the bottom of the module.

#4 - Sounds like you have a big electrical problem also.

#5 - Could be fuel starvation, maybe the tank is not getting vented, or a line is pinched, or the fuel pump, any number of things.
 
There is no one left in town that I know of to take my car too. My car has been to every respectable shop in town. Everything that is left is like the Town and Tire places. My brother is coming down and if he cant fix it then I guess im ****ed. Its not a crate engine, its all edelbrock parts tho. I belive it was built for racing, since I bought it from a race track. O yeah and the last mech said he would "fix it" for free but I belive all he did was turn up the idle, rev and gas flow to keep it from dieing out. All I know is instead of dieing in traffic it now dies when I floor it. What I love most about the car now is how bad the gas mileage is now that the flow is up. I use up twice as much gas as I did before.
 
I feel for you! This is a bad situation. First of all, the reason you're using more gas is because the mechanic opened the throttle so much that you are now operating on the carb's main system instead of the idle circuit. At this point, I'd go back to basics. Do a compression test, check the engine's vacuum. Make sure that the engine did not jump time. I think if you start there, you may find something to go on. Fooling around with the carb isn't going to fix it if there's a engine mechanical problem. Let me know what you find. I'll try to help.
 
At this point, I'd go back to basics. Do a compression test, check the engine's vacuum. Make sure that the engine did not jump time. I think if you start there, you may find something to go on. Fooling around with the carb isn't going to fix it if there's a engine mechanical problem. Let me know what you find. I'll try to help.

While I agree with the advice that has been given and I do feel that it may be more likely a problem related to the ignition, the advice given above is very sound. If you are wary of spending money on parts that don't fix the situation, buy tools, instead. Things like a vacuum gauge, a compression gauge, a timing light and such will direct you down the right path than anything else, especially if you are tired of mechanics who have no idea what they are doing. A simple $15 Haynes manual covering your model of Holley would probably pay the biggest dividends. Carburetors are like any other system and with the right knowledge and tools can be easy to live with and adjust properly.

Also, I saw this coment made at another website made by a guy with more experience putting together engines in one month than most have all thier lives. It's something to keep in mind when you are troubleshooting.

Q: My engine idles real high and rough and when I try do drop the idle down, it dies. What gives?

A: This is usually caused by two things. The vacuum advance being hooked-up to the wrong port on the carb or a big vacuum leak somewhere. A vacuum advance always gets hooked-up to "ported vacuum" which is a port somewhere on the carb above the base plate. On Holley's, it's on the passenger side, halfway up the side of the carb on the metering block. DO NOT hook-up a vacuum advance to manifold vacuum. If you can put your finger on the vacuum port and you feel suction, don't use that port! The other thing that could cause this is a vacuum leak. You can usually find vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the outside of the carb and around the intake manifold. If the idle goes up when you spray it, there's your leak. Another way to check for internal leaks, like internal carb leaks or leaks under the intake manifold (in the valley) is to hold your hand over the top of the carb, blocking-off most of the incoming air. The engine should immediately die. If the idle goes up at all, you've got an internal vacuum leak somewhere.
 
Bullitt said:
Also, I saw this coment made at another website made by a guy with more experience putting together engines in one month than most have all thier lives. It's something to keep in mind when you are troubleshooting.
Don't know where he got the information on manifold vacuum-vs.-ported vacuum, but he's misinformed, as many folks are, about what "ported" vacuum is all about and why it was used. Check out this thread:

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38790

:beer
 
If it were a bad fuel pump, you would have more problems at higher speeds rather than around town and at idle. Ignition problem is a possibility especially as the engine compartment heats up around town "after an hour". Vacuum leak is a possibility as the engine faulters at lower speeds but a vacuum problem would be present when the engine was hot or cold. My guess is ignition coil or loose vacuum connections. Is the choke operating correctly - is it shutting off after the engine is warm?
 

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