Here I Go AGAIN!!!

[Rowdy1]

Yikes!!!

Oh Man, What I Gonna Do NOW??? My head is going to explode from reading these sites, tire size, gear ratio's, dial indicators:W Finding the use of a lift is being made available to me thanks to all those who have offered here but a dial indicator and someone that knows how to use it may be another story, I may NOT be back on the road as soon as I'd hoped:cry

 

[67HEAVEN]

Slow and easy wins the race. :gap

After you've done the alignment thing, Lou, you'll realize how easy and important it is.

 

[bossvette]

its really quite simple to indicate in you place the magnetic base on the flywheel as shown in the post above and "zero" out the indicator being sure you have travel in both directions + and - then just rotate the crank watching the dial and marking down the numbers at 90 degree intervales.
You can buy dial indicators and magnetic bases at most tool shops probably even Sears I have several and could lend one if needed.

ps. but the shipping would be more then the cost of one from Enco or someplace else.

pps http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK3?PMK0NO=566831

 

[Tom Bryant]

I read an article in Hot Rod or Car Craft a few months ago that I thought was interesting. They were talking about checking your bellhousing to see if the hole was in the right place and if the front and back were parrallel and they made this point. Of all of the ones they had checked over the years they had never found an original GM bellhousing to be out of specs. The ones that needed re-machining were all aftermarket ones.

Tom

 

[Gerry]

I read an article in Hot Rod or Car Craft a few months ago that I thought was interesting. They were talking about checking your bellhousing to see if the hole was in the right place and if the front and back were parrallel and they made this point. Of all of the ones they had checked over the years they had never found an original GM bellhousing to be out of specs. The ones that needed re-machining were all aftermarket ones.

Tom

Tom makes a good point. The place that did mine said everything was within .003 and that they had done others also within spec. I think its more of a way for the company (keisler, etc.) to protect themselves from a bad installation and also to minimize their risk. The hoops some places make you jump through just to put the warranty in effect are ridiculous such as you have 21 days from receipt of product (engine) to send all paperwork in. What if you didn't get the installation done in that timeframe then what? No warranty just because of 1 day, 1 hour ,1minute or what. Just my thoughts.

Best regards,
Gerry

 

[Rowdy1]

I'm Finding This Out Now

I read an article in Hot Rod or Car Craft a few months ago that I thought was interesting. They were talking about checking your bellhousing to see if the hole was in the right place and if the front and back were parrallel and they made this point. Of all of the ones they had checked over the years they had never found an original GM bellhousing to be out of specs. The ones that needed re-machining were all aftermarket ones.

Tom

GM bell housings are machined from what I'm told, at least, to a degree. All the scattershields are stamped and are not in spec as close as stock. The "problem" is if you have a high reving or heavily modified engine, the stock aluminum bell housing will have a tendency to crack. The one on the car when I bought it was welded as it had cracked. I have made some progress on getting things going, the mechanic at work told me today he would be happy to set the scattershield up with me as he has done many dial indicator jobs on cars as well as trucks. Once I find out about availability of the kit from Keisler or Classic Chevy 5 Speed, I'll figure out where I'm going to do it. Gerry, I may just take you up on your offer, I will give you a call first.

Thanks Guys and Gals
Lou

 

[67HEAVEN]

Lou,

Doing what you do (and so well too ) with your car, there's no way I'd climb in there without a scattershield.

Block plate too, my friend.

 

[Rowdy1]

Again I'm Wondering

A block plate?:confused I agree Bob, there's no way I'll put it back together without a shield, too many RPM'S. I've been in touch with the two places I have mentioned in earlier posts and they both said a minimum of two to four weeks for the kit I spoke of. The problem is, even with the kit which is designed to be a no hassle bolt up for the C1, it now looks like because of the X frame used, I will have to either remove or move the engine forward two inches or more in order to get the tail stock up and over the frame and then slide it in the scattershield and go from there. Another thing to consider I was told is if the body mounts are bad or have let the body drop due to age, this will bring the body closer to the frame and possibly not allow the trans to fit. This is turning into a real nightmare, I don't have the resources to do all this work by myself not to mention a place that I would feel comfortable borrowing, it could take weeks and I certainly can't and won't tie up someone's lift or garage for that long. I'm going to set the car up temporarily at a friends garage tomorrow just to get the trans out, (on my back) I honestly don't know where or when anything will happen after that but at least by Saturday I should have the reason on the floor why I'm having to do this all over AGAIN. The first thing I'm going to do after I get it out is have my friend from work check the dial although, I honestly don't feel that it was off or a problem, we'll see, film @ 11:00.

 

[Gerry]

Lou,
Again, if there is anything I can do to help please let me know. Something can always be done when you are ready to install a trans if and when you decide. I realize that there are a lot of variables involved. I don't think tying up my lift for a week or even more is a problem as long as it is not winter. You have time to figure the best course of action but don't hesitate to ask as we all would like to help.

Best regards,
Gerry

 

[Vette66AirCoupe]

First things first, my MOST sincere heartfelt THANKS to all for the offers of lifts and wrenching help, I can't express how much that means to me. <<<Rowdy

As I recall, you were offered lifts, wrenching and WENCHING!

Good luck with your project. As usual, just reading through a thread like this has been very educational. Thanks to all.

 

[67HEAVEN]

A block plate?:confused

Lou,

A block plate, between the scattershield amd the block itself, is intended to save the block if your rotating mass lets go.

As you know, the scattershield will protect you and the floorboards, dash, etc., but if things let go without a block plate, the back end of your engine itself may look like downtown New Orleans.

For those unconvinced about the necessity of a scattershield/block plate combo....imagine this happening with an aluminum bellhousing!!! Ask yourself where these pieces are going, and how close are your feet to the action. :eek

Here's a block plate (engine plate) looking from the block side backwards. It actually sits between the block and the flywheel.

Here's a scattershield looking from the transmission side forward.

 

[bossvette]

to add to Bobs picture here you can see the blockplate between the block and the scattershield.

 

[Rowdy1]

More Questions...............

I can see the reason for the block plate and how it works, first question, how do you make up the difference to the input shaft? By using the block plate, you're moving the trans back the width of the plate, no? I still haven't done anything to remove the trans, I have to wait until tomorrow to make more calls due to the holiday. C'Mon lottery:cry

 

[67HEAVEN]

Lou,

In most applications, the 1/4" (or whatever the thickness....I forget what it is) is easily accommodated by the tolerances in the drivetrain design....transmission mount slots....driveshaft slip-on yoke....etc. The input shaft will be quite at home with a bit more clearance from the pilot bushing, but plenty of contact with the clutch/pressure plate.

When I changed up to the Richmond 5-speed (from the Munice 4-speed), and since I had to fabricate a new rear transmission mount anyway, I took the thickness into consideration when making the rear mount bracket.

 

[Rowdy1]

Not What I Meant.........

If you put 1/4 of an inch between the block and the bell housing, or scattershield, you are in essence moving the front of the trans back 1/4 of an inch from the pilot no matter how you mount the trans crossmember etc, correct? Not that I don't see your point, but something going between the shield and the block is moving the trans back, at least that far:confused

 

[67HEAVEN]

If you put 1/4 of an inch between the block and the bell housing, or scattershield, you are in essence moving the front of the trans back 1/4 of an inch from the pilot no matter how you mount the trans crossmember etc, correct? Not that I don't see your point, but something going between the shield and the block is moving the trans back, at least that far:confused

No problem.

 

[Rowdy1]

The Weakest Link

Well after much talking to many people, a very simple thing was asked of me today. Did I look to see if the driveshaft was turning when I let the clutch out, even though there is NO noise and the 62 doesn't move. I didn't blow the new Richmond Gear Super T10 trans or the new Centerforce clutch, I snapped the pinion shaft in the rear as near as I can tell without removing the pumpkin because the driveshaft IS turning. This is a rear I had rebuilt when I put the engine in some 9 or 10,000 miles ago and trust me it's seen some serious tire smoke and powershifting
I'm going away for a few days but when I get back Sunday night I'll decide what I'm going to do even though I do have a plan:naughty:

 

[67HEAVEN]

There you go. Waaaay cheaper and easier.

 

[Rowdy1]

That's What You Think...........

I said I have a "plan" and it ain't cheap, bullit proof, maybe, but NOT cheap. More when I get home, film at 11:00 Monday.

 

[Gerry]

I said I have a "plan" and it ain't cheap, bullit proof, maybe, but NOT cheap. More when I get home, film at 11:00 Monday.

That's great news, sure beats a new trans.

Best regards,
Gerry