Hit Anouther Wall All the fun Is going away

[Marv02]

I started to put my motor together.
I solved the problem with my Oil pan dip stick issue beening on the drivers side.
Now the Trick Flow head I bolted them on every thing went smouth untill I tryed to install the sensors the theaded holes in the New heads are way to big they just fall though.
I think the stock hole are 9/16 and the holes in the new heads are at least 3/4 inch.
It not stopping there if I was so lucky the older style block for the knock sensor same issue
Old stock L98 block the hole is 1/2 I think the new older style block is9/16 I think.
What do I do now.
I planning to call Trick Flow this comming week to find out if they have adapter for the head issue but for the block can I get a diffrent Knock Sensor that fits the larger hole Whats the part Number or is there a reducer out there I cant find so far so I can use the stock Sensor That I rather go with to get this fire put out.
Help Once Again.

 

[Marv02]

I going to try Lowes to find something that will work.

 

[spikebot 81]

I'm pretty sure that all ports for sencers are npt threads.( national pipe thread). Lowes will have what you need. If your sencer is smaller than the port you need a reducing bushing, if it is larger get a close nipple and a bell reducer.

 

[vetteoz]

All the fun Is going away

This is standard stuff when playing with engines.Things change over time.I am sure you will find other differences that need sorting out as you progress
The TFS heads have the older style 1/2" NPT threads ; the later engines use a 3/8" NPT.
No biggy ; as noted above just buy a reducer

 

[Hib Halverson]

Knock sensors are not installed in cylinder heads. They are install in the block. They screw into block drain holes which are just above the oil pan rails near the engine mounts.

If you put them in the heads, they will not work properly.

 

[BADDUCK]

Any good parts store should have brass adapters to correctly size the holes in the head for your stock sensors.

 

[boomdriver]

I started to put my motor together.
I solved the problem with my Oil pan dip stick issue beening on the drivers side.
Now the Trick Flow head I bolted them on every thing went smouth untill I tryed to install the sensors the theaded holes in the New heads are way to big they just fall though.
I think the stock hole are 9/16 and the holes in the new heads are at least 3/4 inch.
It not stopping there if I was so lucky the older style block for the knock sensor same issue
Old stock L98 block the hole is 1/2 I think the new older style block is9/16 I think.
What do I do now.
I planning to call Trick Flow this comming week to find out if they have adapter for the head issue but for the block can I get a diffrent Knock Sensor that fits the larger hole Whats the part Number or is there a reducer out there I cant find so far so I can use the stock Sensor That I rather go with to get this fire put out.
Help Once Again.

Use brass plumbing bushings...not cast iron.
Any Lowes, Home Depot, Ace hardware will have what you need. A plumbing supply store if thats what is local...
the bushing will be one size on the outside, and another threaded size inside that your sensor screws into. This allows the sensor tip to remain in the coolant flow. Don';t use a nipple & reducer or some arrangement that pulls the sensor out and away from the heads or the block. That can lead to inaccurate readings.
Be careful with the knock sensor and torque it exactly otherwise it will not work properly. Over-tightening prevents it from sending its signal as quickly as it should.
Oil press, temp sensors need to be in the flow or the fluid, with teflon tape on the threads to seal against leaks.
Building an engine, no matter how good the plan is/was, will always be a test of the imagination. I've seen guys spend weeks or even months planning and have it all derailed by something like a wrist pin that was supposed to have clips but was installed by gthe machine shop as a floater...
ouch.
Expect things to change, and look at everything twice before moving on..

 

[Marv02]

TQ the Knock Sending Unit HUM do you know how much TQ it needs.

I went to H/D this morning and picked up all the reducerrs I needed

Thanks Everyone once again.

Marv02

Use brass plumbing bushings...not cast iron.
Any Lowes, Home Depot, Ace hardware will have what you need. A plumbing supply store if thats what is local...
the bushing will be one size on the outside, and another threaded size inside that your sensor screws into. This allows the sensor tip to remain in the coolant flow. Don';t use a nipple & reducer or some arrangement that pulls the sensor out and away from the heads or the block. That can lead to inaccurate readings.
Be careful with the knock sensor and torque it exactly otherwise it will not work properly. Over-tightening prevents it from sending its signal as quickly as it should.
Oil press, temp sensors need to be in the flow or the fluid, with teflon tape on the threads to seal against leaks.
Building an engine, no matter how good the plan is/was, will always be a test of the imagination. I've seen guys spend weeks or even months planning and have it all derailed by something like a wrist pin that was supposed to have clips but was installed by gthe machine shop as a floater...
ouch.
Expect things to change, and look at everything twice before moving on..

 

[boomdriver]

H/D is as much an auto supply store as it is for the house, is'nt it? That place has saved me many times with bolts, wire, silicones..etc...

For the '87 (L-98) the knock sensor is torqed to only 14 lbs, or 19-nm with teflon tape. Thats from the FSM.
Hang in there....by the time you turn the key all the aggrevations will have been forgotten..

 

[Marv02]

Thanks I will go out and reinstall the K/S.

I know once I get all back together and back on the road all the headachs will be worth it.

But the rebuild funds are getting low now.

H/D is as much an auto supply store as it is for the house, is'nt it? That place has saved me many times with bolts, wire, silicones..etc...

For the '87 (L-98) the knock sensor is torqed to only 14 lbs, or 19-nm with teflon tape. Thats from the FSM.
Hang in there....by the time you turn the key all the aggrevations will have been forgotten..

 

[Paddywhack]

Trying to budget a rebuild is almost impossible.....my original budget was out the window after the first week.....Probably more than tripled in the end.....I tried not keeping track after awhile for sanity's sake (and my wife's). Good Luck!

 

[SPANISHVETTS]

Trying to budget a rebuild is almost impossible.....my original budget was out the window after the first week.....Probably more than tripled in the end.....I tried not keeping track after awhile for sanity's sake (and my wife's). Good Luck!

Our standard formula is 3 X the time, 4 X the cost and we still end up past deadline and over budget. I figure my wages for a rebuild are about $0.35/hour - really do not know how the shops do it for the price they charge with out cutting all of the corners.:confused