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leeboy66
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Evolution, what's your opinion on a chambered exhaust system? A lot of people on this forum seem to like it.
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Can't say I have any first hand experience with 'em. I don't know if I've ever even heard 'em! But like you, the general concensus appears to be favorable. (BTW, with regards to the gearing question above, the 200R4 will give the same mph/rpm as the 700R4 in every gear except first. I point this out just in case you get wondering about transmissions... There's been plenty of talk about the 700R4 -vs- 200R4 in the forums here.)leeboy66 said:Evolution, what's your opinion on a chambered exhaust system? A lot of people on this forum seem to like it.
Exhaust preferences vary based mostly on what the intended application is, what is allowed by your county (in terms of requiring emission checks and all that stuff.), and sound levels. I'm running straight pipes from the headers and ending in 'glass packs', which are now just essentially empty shells/tubes since the fiberglass packing is pretty much gone. It's kinda llike having almost no mufflers at all anymore :Lleeboy66 said:Thanks for the valuable info. What brand of exhaust system/muffler do you suggest?
Nope. It's a 4 speed auto w/ overdrive. Introduced for the '82 model year and used through the early 90's. Because GM is good about backward compatibility, it's used on a lot of older cars as a bolt in replacement for other/older transmissions. You can get your fill of 700R4/200R4 information here and here.By the way, Is the 700R4 a 5 speed manual transmission?
I have a 2200RPM stall. This one specifically...Click HereArt Jett said:Evolution, What stall speed converter do you have? I'm going to have a 700R-4 with a 383 TPI stroker, 3.08 gears
Sounds like he's building the ZZ383 engine. Nice...Art Jett said:Perfect! That's the one I was leaning toward. It ought to make a nice combo. The block builder estimates the engine at 425+ hp.
blackandred78 said:- open element air cleaner (purchased out of Mid America Corvette catalog) with K&N air filter
- roller tip rockers
- synthetic oil
- stainless steel braided, silcon wrapped plug wires
- Bosch Platinum plugs
- high flow cat
- enlarge pipes from 2 1/4" to 2 1/2"
- DynoMax mufflers
- Edlebrock 795 CFM carb
- aluminum intake manifold
These are almost all easy bolt ons - and I kept all of the original pieces just in case...car really came alive and feels quick and sounds quick. I gained real speed and documented most of it on my G Tech meter.
I've played with suspension as well - composite rear leaf spring takes huge weight out and gets power down better - aluminum manifold is big weight savings - remove air pumps, etc.
Mine has 51,000 original and documented and is a blast!
I would also like to put in an electric fan to reduce engine drag, and install a lightweight flywheel and performance clutch - but won't do that until it pitches...
Have Fun!!!!!!!!!!
Evolution1980 said:If you MUST do something, do the intake and exhaust. (Make sure you don't need to pass emissions!) Not much else will be worth the time and investment.
Dump the single or dual snorkle intake, go with an open-element as already suggested. Get rid of all the emissions BS, such as the air-pump and all that other stuff. Get rid of the cast iron headers and the front & rear Y-pipes.
Put on some Hooker Comp Headers, and run some exhaust straight back into some free flowing mufflers.
Don't replace your stock Q-jet 750, but have it tuned ("rejetted") by someone that KNOWS Q-Jets. Rejetting a Q-jet is cheap, but unless you have a dyno, it's a trial & error process.
Now, the BEST thing you can do... save your pennies for another year (or just don't do anything else to the car). When you have the funds, buy a crate engine ZZ4. Then you'll be happy. The reality of the situation is that with the L48 engine, it just isn't going to be much of anything without an entire rebuild from top to bottom. And by then, you are into crate engine prices. Take it from someone that's been there / done that.
The exhaust and intake mods you do (if you do it) this year will easily transfer to the new crate engine. So that'll be one less thing you'll need. When it comes time, the crate engine will just about be a plug-n-play upgrade. You'll be happy you waited. But in the meantime, the power increase AND more exciting sound of the intake/exhaust will help you get by.
Good question. I never much thought about it until now. I don't have any before & after numbers to back it up. However, I would say that without all the other stuff under the hood anymore (intake pieces, emissions, etc.), while the car is moving there's enough fresh air being drawn in from the lower front air-dam under the car. Also, my cowl is taller, allowing for more air-circulation.glen242 said:Why dump the dual snorkle if it was set up for cold air induction? Are you saying you will make more power with an open element sucking in hot under hood air?
I'm not trying to a be a complete dick and rain on your parade, but I highly (x20) doubt cam & headers is going to get your L82 engine up to 340hp. Did you leave something out of your list, such as "heads"? If the sidepipes were $1500 (which would be chromed ones), where did the other $1000 go???zachh said:Mine, I have:
-hooker headers/ sidepipes
-mallory 50,000 volt distributer(HEI)
-rebuilt carb
-new valves/ springs
-open air cleaner (muscle car style)
-Super coil plug wires
-owner before me put in new cam shaft
all of that, except the sidepipes cost about 2,500$, the sidepipes cost about 1,500. ...produces about 340 hp.
Evolution1980 said:I'm not trying to a be a complete dick and rain on your parade, but I highly (x20) doubt cam & headers is going to get your L82 engine up to 340hp. Did you leave something out of your list, such as "heads"? If the sidepipes were $1500 (which would be chromed ones), where did the other $1000 go???