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How can I make these valve covers look like this?

Vref

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
115
Location
Conroe, TX
Corvette
65 Roadster
How do I make these valve cover, intake manifold and exhaust manifold

Dirty%20valve%20cover.JPG


look like this

graphite203.jpg
 
That's my 1967. You posed the same question in "the other place" where I answered in detail. In brief the valve covers are powder-coated.

vacuum.jpg
 
paul79 said:
That's my 1967. You posed the same question in "the other place" where I answered in detail. In brief the valve covers are powder-coated.

vacuum.jpg
Got it Thanks for the quick reply.
 
Paul, that looks great. I never even considered powdercoating vc's. I have an Eastwood powder coat system, is that what you used?
 
Vref said:
How do I make these valve cover, intake manifold and exhaust manifold

Dirty%20valve%20cover.JPG


look like this

graphite203.jpg
Here is another option: Aluma Blast for intake manifold and valve covers and Cast Iron hi temperature paint for the exhaust manifold. Check out this link.
http://www.eastwoodco.com look for detailing products.
 
Paul79,

I noticed in the pic that the vacuum line for the vacuum advance is coming out of the carb on the unported (full) vacuum side ( I think). Isn't the vacuum line suppose to be on the ported vacumm side? I not sure but I just changed this around on a buddy's car and it runs alot better and gets better mileage. Maybe yours is right and I'm wrong but now I am curious. Anybody know for sure?

Randy
 
vette-dude said:
Paul79,

I noticed in the pic that the vacuum line for the vacuum advance is coming out of the carb on the unported (full) vacuum side ( I think). Isn't the vacuum line suppose to be on the ported vacumm side? I not sure but I just changed this around on a buddy's car and it runs alot better and gets better mileage. Maybe yours is right and I'm wrong but now I am curious. Anybody know for sure?

Randy
Randy, according to the Edelbrock instructions I have for the 1406 carb, the Timed Vacuum Port on the passenger side of the carb is for emission controlled engines. The driver's side port as Paul has it, is for non-emission controlled engines.
 
Okay, but if the drivers side port is full vacuum (non-timed) wouldn't that pull the vacuum advance on all the time in the distributor? therefore advancing the timing at idle? Maybe the vacuum cannister has an adjustable spring in it and it is set up to overcome the lower vacuum at idle thus keeping the dist from being advanced. Oh well, just wondering--Sorry for the hijack.

Randy
 
Randy,
I as well followed Edelbrock instructions for the #1406 carb. I set it for a non-emissions engine which I believe the 327 to be despite the presence of a PCV valve. The car runs very well at all RPMs so I have no reason to question the set-up.
 
Pre-emmisions era cars had full vacuum and did have vavuum advance at idle. That is why you always pull the vac hose off of the canister and plug it to set your timing. Then you put it back on to check that your vac advance is working. The timing mark should go up considerably when you put the hose back on.
 
vette-dude said:
Okay, but if the drivers side port is full vacuum (non-timed) wouldn't that pull the vacuum advance on all the time in the distributor? therefore advancing the timing at idle? Maybe the vacuum cannister has an adjustable spring in it and it is set up to overcome the lower vacuum at idle thus keeping the dist from being advanced. Oh well, just wondering--Sorry for the hijack.

Randy
"Ported" vacuum was one of the early, crude emission strategies used to optimize the operation of the A.I.R. system in the days prior to catalytic converter technology, and nothing more; retarding the timing at idle increased exhaust gas temperature to ensure a good "afterburn" of hydrocarbons when the exhaust gases met the injected fresh air in the manifolds, and it reduced peak combustion temperature for reduced NOX generation. It also de-stabilized idle, reduced power due to retarded initial timing and a slow centrfugal advance curve, increased coolant temperatures due to heat transfer through the (hotter) exhaust port walls, reduced fuel economy, and degraded off-idle throttle response. Simply a band-aid in the pre-converter days, and has no place on a performance engine.
:beer
 
Thanks John,
Sometimes following the instructions works. And you have given the explanation.
 
What I Did

I had a friend with a media blasting shop take mine back to the original condition and then I clear coated them with a Dupont High temp Hi gloss clear. I don't have any pictures right now but they look great.
 
JohnZ said:
"Ported" vacuum was one of the early, crude emission strategies used to optimize the operation of the A.I.R. system in the days prior to catalytic converter technology, and nothing more; retarding the timing at idle increased exhaust gas temperature to ensure a good "afterburn" of hydrocarbons when the exhaust gases met the injected fresh air in the manifolds, and it reduced peak combustion temperature for reduced NOX generation. It also de-stabilized idle, reduced power due to retarded initial timing and a slow centrfugal advance curve, increased coolant temperatures due to heat transfer through the (hotter) exhaust port walls, reduced fuel economy, and degraded off-idle throttle response. Simply a band-aid in the pre-converter days, and has no place on a performance engine.
:beer
Thanks for the explanation.

Randy:w
 
In reguards to the finish on aluminum, the only place that I have found that will make them look as if they just came from the factory is one where the blasting was accomplished by using aluminum shot. I have tried glass beads and other similar products but they will only make a satin finish. Clean and nice but not as good as the aluminum shot.
 

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