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How hard to do wheel bearings on a 85

Tom/Dave - Thanks, I now see your point. It is a sealed unit. The instructions with the assembly kind of threw me off a little. Want to make sure I'm doing it right.

Richr - I removed the tie rod in order to get more room to use a socket/wrench. If you can get the torx bolts off without removing it, you're cool. The GM manual recommends it.

Just a fyi - I decided to remove the knuckle and do the u-joints, seemed like the right thing to do since I was half way there.

Thanks you guys. Just bought this '92 convertible a couple of weeks ago, and, wouldn't you know it, the right rear wheel hub/bearing assembly failed on the drive home. The wheel was a' wobblin' going down the freeway, not a pretty sight! Anyway, after a 60 mile tow, it's in my garage. This is my first vette and I'm looking forward to the enjoyment of working on it and getting it back in shape!

Blaise "Trackitman"
This is my first vette and I'm looking forward to the enjoyment of working on it and getting it back in shape!

Amen to that... working on it's half the fun!

Anyway, the Haynes manual also recommended disconnecting the tie rod, but it didn't even come close to being in my way (I had other, more important, issues with that rearmost bolt).

I have to admit ,I kinda cheated a little . I had one knuckle off and then i remove the hole rear end and put it on a table and replaced everything. Bushings and all.....:D
Well I sure am glad you folks decided to start this thread. I am going to replace all 4 bearings on a saturday here soon. Along with rotors, pads, front calipers(thanks topless),complete exhaust, putting the Bilstiens back on it, then I will have to decide what I will do on sunday....:SLAP :bash ;help :beer

Also baby is getting new shoes, chrome ZR-1 rims with Firestone SZ-50's 275.40.17"s. Got new intake with large runners, new plenum to port and 24 lb injectors. Adjustable fuel regulator, 52mm throttle body and new Accel ignition wires, coil, rotor and cap.
All this due to the help of ya'll....thank you so very much for the help and idea's...:BOW :BOW
Actually it was quite easy as a unit . But, I also had the trans ,driveshaft and the support beam that connects the trans and differential together out the car. That makes a difference. My self, if your doing u-joints too, leave the diif in the car and remove the knuckle. The bearing hub is easier to work on at the bench and removing the 3 torx bolts is more accessable. I also suggest spending about $30 for the impact torx bit set that includes the # 55. You can use the impact on them. They will come in handy on the whole car. Also if you have an impact. that is the best way to loosen the spindle nut.....
The rear are not much different then the front. Just a bigger pain in the a_ _, You have to almost dissasemble the rear end to do the rear hub. The key word here is "hub". The bearings are sealed and to my knowledge cannot be greased. I have never seen one of those hubs that had anything like a grease seal that could be removed. I have done both my '85 and my '86, front and rear and have never seen a hub that was not one piece. The only difference I have been able to find is on the front hubs. The '86 can come with a connector for the ABS that will not fit into the receiver on the '85. But the one with only the timing teeth on it will fit. I guess the one with the connector on it will fit if you want to knock off that plastic dome that holds it. :) But the one you descirbed I have never seen.
Also those 45 (I think) Tork bolts can be a pain and be frozen, such as mine were.

Good luck with it............

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