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How hard to do wheel bearings on a 85



anybody done rear wheel bearings on a 85 or similar? ive done them on a 80 and they are a major pain, just wondering if the c4 was easier or harder, thx,,,i cant seem to find any step by step instructions online, anybody know of any? thanks
Wheel bearings

I've done mine on my 88 and they were a whole lot simpler than the earlier Vettes. The spindle bearing is an assembly now and comes off real easy. Any good tech book should show how. Hope this helps.

Rear bearings

You can change them in your driveway, but plan on a long day. The big problem is getting the Trox bolts loose from the hub bearing housing. Other than that, it's a breeze. It can be done without disconnecting the suspension system. You'll need a #55 Trox bit and a 36mm socket to get the shaft nut off. Another thing to think about is the torque wrench you use to tightening them back, will have to be capable of 180 ft-lbs. There's a good article in December vette mag 2001. I believe the C4 was an 80's vintage they used to take pics of.
Lots of luck

Hey TomsToy great about the Torx and torque wrench.

When you need to do the front ones, the time lost on the rears will be made up.
#1 problem

If you cannot get the 36mm nut off FORGET IT

2nd it's about a HARD & FAST 1/2 day and its a dirty job

You need to try this with a hugh gorilla breaker bar I broke a 1/2" breaker bar had to use a 3/4
(assuming you don't have a big gorilla air impact)

Break all the lug nuts first....

jack the car remove the center dust cap.. put the wheel back on lower the car get your big breaker bar & cheater pipe.

*****wrap rags around these two items (If it gets away from you it will scratch your rim or paint BAD)*******

Spray some penetrating oil on it...let it soak.

From the factory there is a cotter pin & lock washer ( bent tang style) fold the bends down & remove the cotter..

Break the 36 mm.. If your neighbor is the incredible HULK buy him a beer and have him come over ( Good luck ).

Re raise the vehicle.

Remove tire.
Remove caliper.
Remove rotor.
Disconnect tie rod @ knuckle.
Remove 3 torx bolts #55. I found a LONG extension & wobble head works for me.
Turn 1/2 shaft as needed to get access to the torx bolts
Put a piece of wood under the driveshaft to keep it from droping
Once all 3 torx bolts are out, And with a little twisting you will be able to get the old bearing/ flange out.

Note there MIGHT,(read should) be a washer on the back of the spindle.. that needs to stay... if there are traces of one you need to replace it.. this controls the amount of endplay in the bearing.. if you don't have it.. the bearing will have more play to it and slightly less life.

"Stimpy....I'm hurting..."


Thanks Rocko, experience is having been there once. However, preparation is having been ther twice! :beer

i'll drink to that about the second. planning and preparation are mandatory on a job like this.

rear wheel bearings

thanks everybody, at least i know what i am up against,,,,what is the tourque spec for reinstalling the nut? till it smokes and then two more?? thanxxx
Torque spec's

Two grunts
I'm guessin here 75 ft lbs

If you need wheel bearings take a look at the u-joints. The bolts are easy to get out with the half-shaft out of the way. You are under there anyway.
If you have high speed vibration that tire balancing hasn't cured you might find the problem. My last ones lasted about 75K miles.
If you take the axle out take the spindle support rod off at the spindle and you won't bother the rear camber adjustment. Works best if you have someone pull out on the spindle to get the axle out.
Like they said get a 4 foot pipe and craftsman sockets! I had to jump on the spindle nut to get it loose!

It made a giant difference in how the car handles ruted out roads at interstate speed.

have fun!

tighten torque

According to the "big book" the spindle nut(halfshaft) is torqued to 164 lb-ft and the hub mounting bolts are 66 lb-ft. There have been some cases where the spindle nut tried to back-off so most of the guys I know take the spinble nut on up to around 180 to 190 lb-ft.
Good luck
Front wheel bearins on an '85.

Just did it in about one hour. Of course it was the second time I had it apart. The first time the parts joint gave me the hub for an '86, which had the anti-lock brake sensor included. I guess I could have knocked it off and used it but I returned it and got the proper hub.

Anyway you don't have to remove tie rods or anything like that. Wheel, caliper and hub are all that you have to remove. Agreed the 36mm nut is tight but I had no trouble removing it. Of course I had it off once before. Don't forget to torque it.

I think some are confusing it with the rear hub which you don't want to do. I have also done one of those on my '86. Try hard not to go there.

Have fun and good luck with it!
Read the post!

From kamarossrs
"How hard to do wheel bearings on a 85"

"anybody done rear wheel bearings on a 85 or similar?"

He's talking about the rear.....

I have a '92 in which I'm in the middle of replacing a wheel hub and bearing assembly, recently purchased from Zip (not OEM). The instructions indicate using greese in the knuckle cavity and a seal inbetween the spindle and the knuckle. The assembly came with a seal to prevent the grease from escaping through the back side of the spindle.

The problem is: this seal does not fit anywhere, on the spindle, on the knuckle, or on the bearing assembly.

Any of you folks replace this assembly without any further grease and a seal? I am thinking the assembly itself is lubricated and sealed properly and these instuctions are for a front wheel drive application? Any help is greatly appreciated.

If your replacing the rear there is no grease fitting. I've attached a file that shows the parts lineup.
Lots of luck
rear hubs

Tackitman here's a pic of the rear bearing lineup. No greas fitting.
Trackit, the seal you are refering to is a dust seal . The bearings are a sealed unit .They are pre-greased and cannot be greased. I just finished replacing mine on my 85. I used an impact to remove the spindle nut and impact torx bit for the 3 inside the knuckle.
While we're on the subject, can someone tell me why you have to disconnect the tie rod? They're not connected to the hub/bearing, and don't seem to be in the way of disassembly. I replaced my left rear last weekend without disconnecting it.

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