TZ Racer
Well-known member
If you are talking about the rear hubs, they are Guldstrand racing spindles.
The fronts are Vette Brakes Products aluminum hubs.
The fronts are Vette Brakes Products aluminum hubs.
How to get some hookers for free!
- Thread starter 69MyWay
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- #42
69MyWay
Well-known member
Here goes the fender flares
Okay,
First, make sure the car is level from left to right. Then, hold a good level under the factory fender lip and extend it out to support the flare. Do this at the highest part of the fender. This will put the flare at the correct up and down postition. On each end, you want to work it in where it fits best. This is kind of tricky on the 71 as it has the lower flare built into the fender. More on that later.
Okay,
First, make sure the car is level from left to right. Then, hold a good level under the factory fender lip and extend it out to support the flare. Do this at the highest part of the fender. This will put the flare at the correct up and down postition. On each end, you want to work it in where it fits best. This is kind of tricky on the 71 as it has the lower flare built into the fender. More on that later.
- Thread starter
- #43
69MyWay
Well-known member
Now that the flare has been fit into place, scribe a line around the upper edge. Remove the flare and run a piece of tape under that scribed line. This is where you will cut. This allows enough of a mounting flange to bond the flare on top and bottom. Also, trial fit the flare one more time, then drill a 3/16" hole in each dimpled mount point.
- Thread starter
- #44
69MyWay
Well-known member
No turning back now!!!!!!!
Okay campers, here is where it gets real ugly. You have to have a strong stomach for the next step. Get out the saw, and cut on the bottom of the tape line.
Go ahead and open this image next to the previous one to see what a HUGE hole this makes in the side of the car.
Don't worry Dave (TZracer) I have actually already bonded the flare on, just did not have time tonight to post pics.
Okay campers, here is where it gets real ugly. You have to have a strong stomach for the next step. Get out the saw, and cut on the bottom of the tape line.
Go ahead and open this image next to the previous one to see what a HUGE hole this makes in the side of the car.
Don't worry Dave (TZracer) I have actually already bonded the flare on, just did not have time tonight to post pics.
Black Thunder
Well-known member
First off, Hi Dave, & loved your website. You are leading an interesting life. You got some capable hands working on the 71 with Chris doing the work!
Are you keeping the 71 Black? If so when Chris gets his 69 running we will form a gang & terrorize Florida with Black 454 Sharks!!!!!
Mines in the paint shop now so will be shiny new black. We need to think up a name for the gang, don't ya think
John
Are you keeping the 71 Black? If so when Chris gets his 69 running we will form a gang & terrorize Florida with Black 454 Sharks!!!!!
Mines in the paint shop now so will be shiny new black. We need to think up a name for the gang, don't ya think
John
TZ Racer
Well-known member
No the rear axles are not floaters. They are just heavy duty standard vette axles.
TZ Racer
Well-known member
Black Thunder :
We are still discussing paint but there aren't too many better choices than black.
Chris is doing an excellent job and more quickly than I can prep the chassis!
We are still discussing paint but there aren't too many better choices than black.
Chris is doing an excellent job and more quickly than I can prep the chassis!
- Thread starter
- #48
69MyWay
Well-known member
Here is the driver fender cut out. No turning back at all now.
- Thread starter
- #49
69MyWay
Well-known member
At this point, you have to grind both the flare and fender. Make sure your mounting holes are drilled out to a full 3/16" on both the flare and fender.
Now, I prefer to use fiberglass reinforced short strand filler to bond these things as it has tons of extra strength and high build/fill quality.
You have to work fast here. Mix the filler and add hardner. Quickly spread filler on the lower lip of the car and press the flare against the car. Quickly rivet the flare on. You will see the filler get squeezed in between. Wipe the outer section clean, then smear it in all the cracks and openings underneath. This will provide a extra amount of strength than just glassing the top.
Now, I prefer to use fiberglass reinforced short strand filler to bond these things as it has tons of extra strength and high build/fill quality.
You have to work fast here. Mix the filler and add hardner. Quickly spread filler on the lower lip of the car and press the flare against the car. Quickly rivet the flare on. You will see the filler get squeezed in between. Wipe the outer section clean, then smear it in all the cracks and openings underneath. This will provide a extra amount of strength than just glassing the top.
- Thread starter
- #50
69MyWay
Well-known member
Now, rough up the indentions were the rivets go and fill them in along with any obvious gaps. Let that set, then grind with whole outer area down as close as possible. You want to kind of indent the area as the cloth and resin will start to build it back out. Don't grind too much because you are getting the two panels paper thin at this point. Again, this is why I like to bond from the underside first.
- Thread starter
- #51
69MyWay
Well-known member
Here it is with a blanket of matting and resin over the edge.
I am taking a break making this post while it dries. Next step is to hit this with the grinder, rough up the whole area and start adding the body filler. At this point it is as strong as it is ever going to be and a permanent part of the car. The next couple of steps just smooth it all out.
BTW, I am doing both sides at one time. This conserves materials and speeds up the whole job. If you have never done this before, I would suggest you do one side at a time.
Also, note the lower rear mud flap lip area. I think it is turning out rather nice. I have much more hand work there, but the idea is to blend the 68-69 lower lip look with that of the 71-up.
I am taking a break making this post while it dries. Next step is to hit this with the grinder, rough up the whole area and start adding the body filler. At this point it is as strong as it is ever going to be and a permanent part of the car. The next couple of steps just smooth it all out.
BTW, I am doing both sides at one time. This conserves materials and speeds up the whole job. If you have never done this before, I would suggest you do one side at a time.
Also, note the lower rear mud flap lip area. I think it is turning out rather nice. I have much more hand work there, but the idea is to blend the 68-69 lower lip look with that of the 71-up.
vigman
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Chris
Could you package a quart of your energy and sell it ? HOW DO YOU FIND THE TIME FOR ALL THIS STUFF? Oh I get it... you have a time compressor.. so a DAY to us is 1 hr to you.
Did you buy it from JC Whitney?
Mike
Could you package a quart of your energy and sell it ? HOW DO YOU FIND THE TIME FOR ALL THIS STUFF? Oh I get it... you have a time compressor.. so a DAY to us is 1 hr to you.
Did you buy it from JC Whitney?
Mike
- Thread starter
- #53
69MyWay
Well-known member
Mike,
You guys just make me laugh. Nothing to it but hard work and dedication. I have put about 20 hours into these I guess. Not bad for working almost a 50 hour week last week as well!
Got this job finished one week ahead of schedule.
Now I get to take MY big block to the machine shop next week!
Okay,
this next pic shows the body filler going on. Basically, this is just an apply and repeat process. This is just ordinary polyester body filler. You apply, then sand with 36 grit by hand. Next, jump down to 80. I forgot to snap a pic of the final fill. It is a very light weight easy to mix and sand two part body filler. It is blue in color and dries very fast.
You guys just make me laugh. Nothing to it but hard work and dedication. I have put about 20 hours into these I guess. Not bad for working almost a 50 hour week last week as well!
Got this job finished one week ahead of schedule.
Now I get to take MY big block to the machine shop next week!
Okay,
this next pic shows the body filler going on. Basically, this is just an apply and repeat process. This is just ordinary polyester body filler. You apply, then sand with 36 grit by hand. Next, jump down to 80. I forgot to snap a pic of the final fill. It is a very light weight easy to mix and sand two part body filler. It is blue in color and dries very fast.
- Thread starter
- #54
69MyWay
Well-known member
Okay, it is now 5:00 p.m. EST. We have a local car show to go to in about an hour. I just stepped out of the shower and wanted to get you guys the latest pics.
I applied the Eurothane primer and now it goes back to Dave. There is still several hours of hand work left with the guide coat to get them perfect. However, this body work here would pass for a light colored car no problem at all. I want Dave to go black, so we will get plenty of hand block work in here.
Notice how I was able to mold the 71 flare into the lower rear of the flare. I am very happy with this. Dave will be here in a few minutes, so we will have to see what he thinks.
I applied the Eurothane primer and now it goes back to Dave. There is still several hours of hand work left with the guide coat to get them perfect. However, this body work here would pass for a light colored car no problem at all. I want Dave to go black, so we will get plenty of hand block work in here.
Notice how I was able to mold the 71 flare into the lower rear of the flare. I am very happy with this. Dave will be here in a few minutes, so we will have to see what he thinks.
- Thread starter
- #55
69MyWay
Well-known member
This part is finished!!!!!!!!!!
Take a look at how they roll right into the door jamb.
Take a look at how they roll right into the door jamb.
TZ Racer
Well-known member
The flares are looking good! We might smooth the bottom corner of the flare a little.
Do you think if I drop off the chassis at Chris' in another 2 weeks the car should be ready to show? (1 week?)
Of course the project may be slowed down a little while Chris replaces the doors on his green Vette after they were blown off around 10:00 pm last night.
Do you think if I drop off the chassis at Chris' in another 2 weeks the car should be ready to show? (1 week?)
Of course the project may be slowed down a little while Chris replaces the doors on his green Vette after they were blown off around 10:00 pm last night.
Black Thunder
Well-known member
Dave, Yikes the mean green got smoked already!!!!
- Thread starter
- #58
69MyWay
Well-known member
IT WAS A TRICK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
One minute I am looking over at Sue (Mrs. TZracer) to see what she is trying to tell me, then Vroooooooooooooom! The 2000 shoots off like it got blown out of a gun. Dummy me floors it without down shifting....well, you know the rest of the story already. Nikki will never let me live it down, nor will she ever challenge or allow me to challenge her again, therefore she will remain undefeated with the red rocket.
Oh, a little duct tape ought to hold the doors in place for now.
One minute I am looking over at Sue (Mrs. TZracer) to see what she is trying to tell me, then Vroooooooooooooom! The 2000 shoots off like it got blown out of a gun. Dummy me floors it without down shifting....well, you know the rest of the story already. Nikki will never let me live it down, nor will she ever challenge or allow me to challenge her again, therefore she will remain undefeated with the red rocket.
Oh, a little duct tape ought to hold the doors in place for now.
- Thread starter
- #59
69MyWay
Well-known member
Here it is rolling out on the trailer.
They both still need much hand work to get them perfect. This will come after the body is back on the frame.
They both still need much hand work to get them perfect. This will come after the body is back on the frame.
Black Thunder
Well-known member
Chris stay on Dave to make it Black, so we can form our notorious gang to be know far & wide. We all have huge rear flares now, that will surely be stuffed with lotsa wide rubber.
Nice job on them flares mod man, great series for others to ponder! Just hope they have the moxy to follow the trim line into the the body, with the cutting tool
Nikki great job there
Sorry Chris:bash
John
Nice job on them flares mod man, great series for others to ponder! Just hope they have the moxy to follow the trim line into the the body, with the cutting tool
Nikki great job there
Sorry Chris:bash
John
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