I have a rumbly...

[wishuwerehere82]

Sorry Stephan,
I was gone for two weeks.
You are probably right about the vaccuum leak if the headlight is slow. The accumulator can is under the drivers side fender. You can disconnect the hose at the manifold and put a "T" fitting on with a vaccuum gauge on it to measure your leaking rate. There are two little plastic gizmos on the vaccuum line. The one closest to the manifold is a filter and the other one is a check valve. If you put the gauge after the check valve, it should hold vaccuum after the engfine is shut off. If not, you have a leak somewhere between the vaccuum source and the headlight actuators.

The vaccuum lines go from the manifold to the accumulator, then up to the dashbord valves (one on the headlight switch and one under the steering column) and then to the headlight actuators.
Since they are activated by vaccuum, there are two vaccuum relays in the center of the nose as seen with the hood up. The small hose activates the relays and the large hoses provide the vaccuum to the actuators, both open and closed. When vaccuum is applied to the small hose, the lights go up, and when it is removed the headlights go down.

One thing you could try first is to remove and plug the headlight vaccuum line at the manifold and see if it makes a difference in the idle with the headlights out of the equation. Then you would know if that is where the problem is.

 

[82ColEd]

No worries mate (Gosh, i am getting the brit thing down now. ). I'll check on the vacuum when i get the gaskets (Gotta chase my Brother in law :eyerole) or in between if i get a chance. It's still running a bit awkward and i think it's using a bit much of that expensive stuff. At least i get the gas smell once in a while.

Thanks for the pointers Pete, i appreciate it!

 

[82ColEd]

Dang.. Brother in law is telling me, that the IAC Gasket Kit is discontinued..

Would anyone know of a repro part or part number that exists for me to tell him? Only thing i found online was the ACDelco Part # 40-653 (but thats the Carb Gasket Kit, which i assume has the IAC in it) and would i need 1 or 2?

 

[82ColEd]

Still working on obtaining IAC gaskets.. I msgd a few parts places, none seem to have it. DocRebuild's reply to my 4 liner looking for it: No

:cry

Guess, it's back to the basics and trying to get one from a ac shop or something..

The thickness is 0.030"
Inside hole dimeter is 0.830"
Outside diameter is 1.220"

Pete, what material is this out of? Mine are hard as a rock, but you said Nylon? Does it matter? I'm thinking rubberish kind, so as to not let air through.

After i get those in, i will double check if there still is an issue with Vacuum. If yes, i'll go trouble shoot that.

Also, the car smells like it's dropping fuel somewhere while driving, not in the garage, which leads me to believe that maybe a spark plug is toast. At least thats what happened last time when cyl#4 fouled the plug. Ran like crap and lost lots o fuel (pooled in the cyl and got dumped, at least thats how i understand it, non mech that i am).. ;squint:

Gotta get me the right spark plugs and attempt it myself, i guess.. Not looking forward to it. :ugh

 

[Evolution1980]

Stefan, maybe something like this would work for you? Hylomar
My mechanics swear by this stuff when it comes to sealing gaskets or gasket repair.

- Temp range of -60F to +600F
- Non-hardening and non-setting
- Vibration resistant
- Re-sealable and re-useable
- Use with or without a gasket
- Unlimited assembly time
- Allows metal to metal contact
- Seals surface imperfections (to .01")
- Withstands rapid variations in temp
- Resistant to fuels, oils and more​

 

[KANE]

Stefan-

There is a huge hardware store that reminds me of Home Depot on the light side. It is located in Mainz Mombach. I can't remember the name of it- but it is a chain- and they have a beaver for their mascot. I think they had gaskets and such for small engines, electrical, and fixtures that might work. Lord knows they have a plethora of bolts. Maybe they have chain out in Frankfurt.

FWIW... Even when I went with my German friends to ATU, most of the folks were less than knowledgeable at that chain. It was like dealing with the high school kids that work at Advance Auto.

That was what bugged me the most about Germany... there wasn't a wide variety of chains like NAPA, O'Reilly's, Advance, Autozone, or others. I can see why you must rely on the internet as much as you do. I know I did...

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Still working on obtaining IAC gaskets.. I msgd a few parts places, none seem to have it. DocRebuild's reply to my 4 liner looking for it: No

:cry

Guess, it's back to the basics and trying to get one from a ac shop or something..


Steve, what material is this out of? Mine are hard as a rock, but you said Nylon? Does it matter? I'm thinking rubberish kind, so as to not let air through.

After i get those in, i will double check if there still is an issue with Vacuum. If yes, i'll go trouble shoot that.

Also, the car smells like it's dropping fuel somewhere while driving, not in the garage, which leads me to believe that maybe a spark plug is toast. At least thats what happened last time when cyl#4 fouled the plug. Ran like crap and lost lots o fuel (pooled in the cyl and got dumped, at least thats how i understand it, non mech that i am).. ;squint:

Gotta get me the right spark plugs and attempt it myself, i guess.. Not looking forward to it. :ugh

The original gaskets were a clear plastic (nylon or similar) the new ones that came with my IAC's are fiber gaskets. I would think that the ones you made are probably doing the job as well as need be.

Mine has been doing strange things as well.
One day it runs just fine, and the next it seems like it is missing and losing power. No changes in gas or daytime temp. it just seems to be random. Like it has a mind of its own. Maybe its the CTS on mine.

 

[82ColEd]

Stefan, maybe something like this would work for you? Hylomar
My mechanics swear by this stuff when it comes to sealing gaskets or gasket repair.

- Temp range of -60F to +600F
- Non-hardening and non-setting
- Vibration resistant
- Re-sealable and re-useable
- Use with or without a gasket
- Unlimited assembly time
- Allows metal to metal contact
- Seals surface imperfections (to .01")
- Withstands rapid variations in temp

- Resistant to fuels, oils and more​

Thanks Andre, i shall note that one for use, if i cant find one fitting.

Stefan-

There is a huge hardware store that reminds me of Home Depot on the light side. It is located in Mainz Mombach. I can't remember the name of it- but it is a chain- and they have a beaver for their mascot. I think they had gaskets and such for small engines, electrical, and fixtures that might work. Lord knows they have a plethora of bolts. Maybe they have chain out in Frankfurt.

You're talking the OBI chain? Yes, but too far away. I shall find something similiar to that, probably a AC type store, should have fittings and gaskets, mehopes..

FWIW... Even when I went with my German friends to ATU, most of the folks were less than knowledgeable at that chain. It was like dealing with the high school kids that work at Advance Auto.

That was what bugged me the most about Germany... there wasn't a wide variety of chains like NAPA, O'Reilly's, Advance, Autozone, or others. I can see why you must rely on the internet as much as you do. I know I did...

Oh Johnny, yes, sadly, 100% right.. ATU is kind of a waste of time, though they can be nice and let me use their lift or tools. They TRY hard.. And are always interested if the dude with the big American Cars comes by.. :eyerole

The original gaskets were a clear plastic (nylon or similar) the new ones that came with my IAC's are fiber gaskets. I would think that the ones you made are probably doing the job as well as need be.

Mine has been doing strange things as well.
One day it runs just fine, and the next it seems like it is missing and losing power. No changes in gas or daytime temp. it just seems to be random. Like it has a mind of its own. Maybe its the CTS on mine.

Uh oh.. Not sounding good.. How long did you have the spark plugs in there? The more i think about it, the more i am thinking that.. :ugh

Thanks for the info guys, i shall keep ya in loop..

 

[TMPJoe]

plugs usually are not intermittent.. they tend to be an issue in more ways than one

my 1980 is not stock... but on my newer EFI computer cars vacuum leaks act just like what you are describing

if you have access to a "smoke machine" to check for vacuum leaks i would try that...

another test would be when the idle stumbles open and close the headlamps and pump the brakes and see if anything changes when you change vacuum like that....

also is your pcv valve working? when did you last check or replace it?

sometimes its the simple things that we miss.... just trying to help

 

[82ColEd]

plugs usually are not intermittent.. they tend to be an issue in more ways than one

my 1980 is not stock... but on my newer EFI computer cars vacuum leaks act just like what you are describing

if you have access to a "smoke machine" to check for vacuum leaks i would try that...

another test would be when the idle stumbles open and close the headlamps and pump the brakes and see if anything changes when you change vacuum like that....

also is your pcv valve working? when did you last check or replace it?

sometimes its the simple things that we miss.... just trying to help

Joe: Absolutly feel free.. Any help IS appreciated.. :cool

The issue isnt really intermittant, it smells like fuel the whole time driving.. And the idle, while replacing the CTS, the EGR Valve and the IAC Motors have made it smoother, still isnt what i used to have. For instance, this morning, driving in, it idled at 800 at the light (warming up) but it got gas a little bit every once in a while. My foot was on the brakes. So it felt like i pushed the pedal just a tiny bit (I wasnt). It hardly moved the needle (RPM), but i could hear it.

Smoke machine: Nope sorry. Gonna have to do it the old fashion way (And buy a vacuum meter:eyerole).

PCV Valve: Aeh, nope, havent checked it in 4ever. I'll check on it too..

Thanks for the suggestions!

-Stefan

 

[Yoda]

-Stefan

Have you considered it may the change in fuel and the carbs/system needs to be setup a bit differently??

Good Luck finding the intermittened problem, maybe I should send you a gallon of gas from here in Texas

Bud

 

[TMPJoe]

-Stefan

Have you considered it may the change in fuel and the carbs/system needs to be setup a bit differently??

Good Luck finding the intermittened problem, maybe I should send you a gallon of gas from here in Texas

Bud

He has the infamous crossfire ...

Stefan...

Another thing you might want to do is put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see if your fuel pressure is varying at idle and part throttle

could be the fuel line is old.. pump is old... tank is dirty....

we might all be fooled as this might really be fuel cut off issues and we are chasing vacuum?

how has the car been stored over the years? also what octane gas do you run over there?

when i "rebuilt" my engine we redid the fuel lines and pump and dropped and cleaned the tank.. even though my car had 35000 original miles on it when i did it and it was always properly stored with the tank full and additive in it for winter.... and stored indoors too!

 

[82ColEd]

-Stefan

Have you considered it may the change in fuel and the carbs/system needs to be setup a bit differently??

Good Luck finding the intermittened problem, maybe I should send you a gallon of gas from here in Texas

Bud

Bud, i was thinking to take it to a shop to have it checked (Timing, i guess), or could i do it myself? I dont have a timing light, but am pretty sure i can get one. Octane wise, i used to run 93 in the States and am running 98 here ('bout the same, we have RON not R+M/2, see LINK).
If you think, it's worthwile to have it checked, i will. Or tell me how and i shall make an attempt (Once i am done, this car will be almost new. )
A gallon wont do Bud, send a tanker truck, with the cheap gas in the States, shouldnt be a big deal.. (Sorry, couldnt resist, i know you guys are having a crunch :ugh).

He has the infamous crossfire ...

Stefan...

Another thing you might want to do is put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see if your fuel pressure is varying at idle and part throttle

could be the fuel line is old.. pump is old... tank is dirty....

we might all be fooled as this might really be fuel cut off issues and we are chasing vacuum?

how has the car been stored over the years? also what octane gas do you run over there?

when i "rebuilt" my engine we redid the fuel lines and pump and dropped and cleaned the tank.. even though my car had 35000 original miles on it when i did it and it was always properly stored with the tank full and additive in it for winter.... and stored indoors too!

"infamous" ? I thought, it was famous. :L

Storage: Well, in the garage, mostly with fuel topped off. Wasnt my DD until moving here. So i only drove it intermittantly, but it ran fine.

Yes, you are correct Joe, Methinks, the ECM should handle the fuel, but it might be worthwile to have a professional look it over, and make sure the settings are correct. This whole thing didnt start until after it had been at the Inspection (TUeV), it ran like crap since then. Maybe they mucked with the timing to get it to comply to the emissions (Wild Speculation here)??

Fuel line and pump and tank: I dont think they have been touched (I Know, they havent in the last 15 years since i had the car).

Fuel Pressure Gauge? Oh boy, another thing to buy. I'll be ending up with a garage full of tools by the time we're done.

Lot of people put a 85 pump in them, some just for kicks as it's supposed to remedy low fuel pressure issues. Might be worthwile to do too.

 

[TMPJoe]

nothing wrong with more tools

more tools
more guitars
more gear

more BEER

 

[82ColEd]

Not a good day... ad

Had to get a new tool, a spark plug wrench, as mine is too big. Fine, no biggy. Just want to check the tip to see if "we", the collective, can tell.. Well, §&/$&&%/§&%&§ me. ad

Get #5 plug out: (figured, easiest one to get to) unplug the wire, crawl under car, new wrench (a #16) seems to fit fine, with a movable socket head, :cool , well until this happened:

Basically, it was in there full tilt and didnt move, but the head of the wrench did. and broke the plug into 4 pieces. I could spit.. mad
Used a regular 16 wrench to pry the rest of the thing out, and yes the tip looks all sooty and full of gunk.

I guess, i know my next step:
A) On a Sunday, where all shops are closed here in Germany, try and find a gas station that has my type of spark plug.

And next week:
B) Get to a mechanic and have the remaining 7 replaced. Alternatively, get 2-4 posts (car type) and a carjack (more than the 2ton i saw yesterday) to jack the thing higher and i can get under it.

Something always happens, eh? :ugh :cry

I'm off to find a spark plug.. Wish me luck--- ad

 

[82ColEd]

Update:
Not surprisingly, no joy on a Sunday, so i am grounded until tomorrow 10am, when the 1 US Parts store in Frankfurt opens. :cry
Still trying to figure out how to get there, i Do have to work tomorrow. Dang..


And, btw, i forgot, i did check the PCV valve yesterday: Pulled the manifold side tube off, and it sucked my finger on it. When i left it open, the car started to idle high, finger on it and it calmed down. So methinks, thats ok.

 

[KANE]

...I guess, i know my next step:
A) On a Sunday, where all shops are closed here in Germany, try and find a gas station that has my type of spark plug.

And next week:
B) Get to a mechanic and have the remaining 7 replaced. Alternatively, get 2-4 posts (car type) and a carjack (more than the 2ton i saw yesterday) to jack the thing higher and i can get under it.

Something always happens, eh? :ugh :cry

I'm off to find a spark plug.. Wish me luck--- ad

Stefan- you really need to find or make a friend in the US military. AAFES stores sell American car parts and are open on Sunday. Wolfgang Kaserne is open 7 days a week in Hanau. PM me. I still know people over there!

 

[wishuwerehere82]

If it means not getting to work, you could always put the plug base back in and run on 7 cylinders. Just pull the #5 plug wire off at the distibutor for the short term.
It wouldn't be any worse than my Vette with 2 rounded cam lobes when I got it.
Just make sure it cools off before you put the new plug back in, then wait until it's convenient to do the rest. Once you have a new set of plugs in hand, who cares if you snap all of the old ones off.
Make sure you hand thread them in most of the way to avoid cross-threading.

 

[Evolution1980]

All things considered, Stefan, a broken plug isn't the worst thing in the world. At least you got it out without stripping anything! And replacing worn plugs is just regular maintenance of the car...

BTW...unless they seem to be really cheap steel, a 2-ton jack and stands should work fine for the car. You car doesn't weigh anywhere near 4000 lbs.

Keep positive!

 

[TMPJoe]

stefan

that gap looks huge

be sure to check the new ones! never trust a package