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Bob,

I did the same with the cables on my current Vette due to the cost of a side post battery and had no problems, on my first Vette I did have problems with the switch on the clutch pedal and it would only happen when the car was hot for some reason. I bypassed the switch and that solved it. Again might be something worth a look at.

Are you a member of the AA or RAC ???, if you are call them out the next time you are stuck, these roadside guys have an uncanny knack of being able to tell you what's wrong, used them on more than a few occasions over the years.

J.
 
Hi,

Thanks mate, again will mention to the mechanic.

Cheers

BB
 
How much more is a side post battery? Seems like a penny wise and pound foolish in this respect. Even a salvaged used one would be a fit, no?
 
Hi,

Yep, hind sight is a wonderfull thing.

Thanks any way.

BB
 
message for JHL,

this switch that you talk about, did the starter motor try and turn when you had the problem?

BB
 
Hi tlong,

Unfortunately we are seriously ripped off in this country when it comes to things like this, what you see in dollars usually transfers straight into british pounds and then has 17.5% sales tax added to it and sometimes another 10% added just for good measure and then there is the Corvette tax to add :mad , also they are not so easy to get over here especially up north where I stay there are very few suppliers of parts for American cars far less Vettes.

I bought a couple of bits and pieces recently, the guy just showed me a Summit catalogue and and that was the deal he offered me on parts. I really don't think that is the problem, I have converted several cars to the top post battery over the years and had no problems.

J.
 
Hi BB.

If you don't mind the suggestion, I would suggest that you replace the battery lead that has the adapter in it.
If it causing the connection to get hot when starting, that means there is a resistance in the connection. Any resistance will cause heat, but will also result in a voltage drop and a lack of ability to carry maximum current.
The resistance works both ways, so if it is dropping the voltage to the starter, it is also dropping the voltage from the charging circuit.
The alternator normally puts out 13.7-14 Volts, to charge a 12Volt battery. This is necessary to charge the electrolyte in the cells to a potential of 1.7 volts over the standard voltage.
So let's say that you drop that by as much as 1 Volt due to the resistance in the wire, the electrolyte is only charging .7Volts over the plate potential, and would not charge the battery high enough while you drive it to start on a consistent basis.
The ammeter says that the charging voltage is 13.7, the alternator is putting out 13.7, but at the battery connection, the voltage is only 12.7 regardless of the charging rate.
Does this make sense to you? I would see about getting the wire connections at your top terminals scraped off and cleaned to eliminate the resistance in the wire if you can't replace the wire back to original.
 
When the system is right there is no cranking, just ON. Is this a new starter? Could the new battery be defective? This is really just a Chevy under glass. That's it, I'm coming over there with my darts, an ammeter and a thirst for a pint of Guinness.

I couldn't count the curses delivered to my MG, Sunbeam Alpine and Shaguar. They are long gone.....
 
Hi and thanks,

The top terminals and the connectors are brand new so shouldnt be a problem there, it all does make sence and would sort of explain why the battery isnt lasting very long even after a long journey.

have u heard of this clutch switch thing causing starting problems like mine?

BB
 
Thanks Austin,

Will buy u a guinness if you can sort this one out!!!!

BB
 
British Bob said:
Hi and thanks,

The top terminals and the connectors are brand new so shouldnt be a problem there, it all does make sence and would sort of explain why the battery isnt lasting very long even after a long journey.

have u heard of this clutch switch thing causing starting problems like mine?

BB
New doesn't necessarily mean good. I have seen a lot of top connectors arc at the wires under the wire clamp.
Check them to make sure.

The clutch switch is only an interlock to your starter solonoid relay,and shouldn't affect the cranking current in the starter.
 
One thing I have seen on a C4 is the fuel pressure regulator to the injectors getting stuck open. This caused the gas to flow into a cylinder that had the intake valve open and caused it to Hydraulic. It would not crank after sitting turned off for 5 minutes, the battery terminals smoked and sparked. By then the air filter was filled with gas and gas was running out the intake opening onto the ground..

That is one thing that would Hydo-lock your engine. But it would only crank about 1/4 turn and then act as if the engine was seized.
 
Hi and thanks.

Sorry for being such a novice.

Learning a lot here though.

Cheers

BB
 
I have been doing this stuff for 32 years and I still haven't seen it all. Don't be sorry about asking for help. We have a lot of knowledge to share here at the CAC. There is no stupid question, except the one unasked. We were all novices once, and someday you will be able to pass this knowledge to someone else, and that is the greatest reward.
 
thank you all so much for all your help over the last few days.

The garage said that they would call me before close of business with an update. the car has been flushed and new mobile one 5w30 put in, or at least that is what they said they would do. they havnt phoned!

No news is good news.....i hope.

Begining to think that witha potential wrong oil choice and the fact that a leak has meant that the levels had been quite low on occasion that i may be looking at a potential engine seize!!!!! although it does run fine and makes no bad noises. but given all the info there seems to be nothing wrong with the car electricly yet the starter (new) struggles to turn the engine.

Could be expensive.

Please some one put my mind at rest if possible.

Thanks again

British Bob
 
Result!!!!

Hi,

It turns out that my engine is not seized!!!!!! if fact it turns easy by hand.

The car in its current condition starts very well when cold but as the engine gets up to running temp it gets harder and harder to start.

If u leave it to cool down, say 2 hours in this case it starts fine again.

The mechanic says that I must have a faulty (new) starter motor that is being affected by the heat build up. any thoughts?

This sort of makes sence as when the starter motor was fitted it started the car 6 times on the trot. after I had driven about 4 miles , I stopped to get fuel and it refused to start. when I got home I went out every hour and it started every time. drove to work the next day and would not start when i stopped and tried to re start it.

Would a heat sheild work?

Am I gona be told be the engineer that fitted this unit that there is nothing wrong with it and to go away?

BB
 
As I understand it, this starter was recently replaced.

Was the replacement starter OEM? If not, perhaps the manufacturer of the starter didn't properly insulate the starter motor to ensure it would survive in a higher than normal temperature environment.

If I were in your shoes, I'd replace the starter with an OEM starter if possible and if not, I'd purchase a heat shield or blanket and have my mechanic install it on the new starter. I doubt if just putting a shield or blanket on the old starter will be satisfactory since, even though it might work fine for a while, there has already been damage and that damage will manifest itself sooner or later, probably sooner.

Good luck!
 

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