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Is there fluid in the a/c compressor clutch?

chevyaddict

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2002
Messages
894
Location
Tucson, AZ USA
Corvette
1990 Convertible
I am pretty sure the answer is no, however, I have what seems to be fluid marks that have spewed out in a splatter pattern right from the a/c compressor clutch. And, when the a/c is running there is this horrible burnt smell; everything is fine when the a/c is off. I thought it may be the clutch freezing up and making the belt melt but the belt is fine, and the spatter pattern is right where the a/c is. So, is there actual fluid in the clutch itself (1990) and then if so there must be a seal that can go, yes? :confused
 
I am pretty sure the answer is no, however, I have what seems to be fluid marks that have spewed out in a splatter pattern right from the a/c compressor clutch. And, when the a/c is running there is this horrible burnt smell; everything is fine when the a/c is off. I thought it may be the clutch freezing up and making the belt melt but the belt is fine, and the spatter pattern is right where the a/c is. So, is there actual fluid in the clutch itself (1990) and then if so there must be a seal that can go, yes? :confused
Packed sealed bearing in the AC clutch,Sorry Dawn!~!!
The front seal is going out of the compressor,You'll need a Refrigeration Reclamation Unit,Seal,AC Clutch puller,AC seal puller and a AC seal installer!:thumb

:beer
 
Packed sealed bearing in the AC clutch,Sorry Dawn!~!!
The front seal is going out of the compressor,You'll need a Refrigeration Reclamation Unit,Seal,AC Clutch puller,AC seal puller and a AC seal installer!:thumb

:beer

First response, :BOW to you for your expertise! Thanks! Second response: :cry We just hit 100 degrees here and its supposed to be 105 on Monday....
 
First response, :BOW to you for your expertise! Thanks! Second response: :cry We just hit 100 degrees here and its supposed to be 105 on Monday....


still winter in Az? :rotfl

Thats jacket weather in southern Arizona ! (several yrs in Mesa/Gilbert) Phx area. I miss it a lot. I moved to a real ugly climate. Houston Tex...same heat plus some horrible humidity. The 2 numbers rise together each spring....re: 90 degrees...90% humidity..= misery. I miss 105 and 15%.....

My best advice regarding the a/c compressor would be to just be a good rebuild or even a new one. Rebuilding is possible but you have to be certain of the shaft surface and some other pieces. If its old and might have other internal wear, might not be worth rebuilding as another failure could be just months away. I think new delco compressors run in the $350 range..while remans can be had for 1/2 that with a 1yr to lifetime warranty.

After thinking about it, if you have the ND compressor ( yr model specific) and not a domestic, its more worth the rebuilding...
 
I don't know how you could handle that heat with the humidity. FORGET IT. The only time we have that is during the monsoons but at least we get afternoon reprieves of cool rain and beautiful thunderstorms so its worth it!! :cool!:

I think I'm just going to have the system converted over to R134 with new components. The A/C is the ONE thing I can't deal with on my own because I don't have the proper equipment. Frustrating after I practically rebuilt the whole motor not too long ago. BUT I have a reputable A/C shop here that I trust so when I have the mula I'll do it. First thing first... need to rebuild the front suspension on my 89 IROC that is still running strong after 208,000 miles!
 
Don't be to quick to convert to 134A the price on it is right up there and the price of R12 has really dropped.
Even though the 134A works ok, you will never get the cooling of the R12. Check the price of R12 before you
convert.
 
Also consider the hydrocarbon based refrigerants (Envirosafe...etc)...I use that in everything, for several years now with VERY good results. Its not that difficult to do yourself...if you can build an engine you can do AC!
 
Don't be to quick to convert to 134A the price on it is right up there and the price of R12 has really dropped.
Even though the 134A works ok, you will never get the cooling of the R12. Check the price of R12 before you
convert.

I converted my IROC to R134 a few years ago and it blows very cold. I'm doing it more for the environmental reasons than anything. R12 is a lot more dangerous for the environment. :D
 
Also consider the hydrocarbon based refrigerants (Envirosafe...etc)...I use that in everything, for several years now with VERY good results. Its not that difficult to do yourself...if you can build an engine you can do AC!

Do you have to have special compressors for that? Or just other special components? I hadn't heard of it - I will certainly look into it as that is the reason I was going to convert to R134 in the first place.
 
Dawn,

you can rent or borrow the necessary tools (vac pump, gauges) from Auto-Moan and do the a/c yourself. Shops get a 3 digit figure ($1000+) to convert....a DIY with the right tools can be done for $150..maybe less. :thumb The secret to successful a/c work is cleanliness and sealing.

Monsoons...I recall. That was the reminder of what the gulf coast feels like . When I was splashing lotion all over my arms and hands to keep my skin from drying out and flaking off due to the dryness in Az, I never considered just how nice that was when compared to the extreme opposite of the enviromental spectrum...life in a sauna. I remember hanging wet jeans outside in Phx and they'd be dry in about 1/2 hour. Around here, a cloths line is all day and then its not totally dry.
The Tex-sis gulf coast has to be where they develope and test extreme anti-perspirants and deoderants...Even the mosquitos have to wear life jackets around here...:rotfl
 
One day, I'll complete the online certification course I found. Not sure if that it required to be allowed to buy refrigerant, but surely a good way to get better informed on the topic.

Gotta love it.. enviro-speak in a car nut forum. :w

The fittings for 134 differ from 12, BTW. Also, there is 'refrigerant oil, a measured amount, in the compressor and no way to check the proper quantity, w/o fully draining it. Too much or too little is not good for perhaps obvious reasons. Running the system that is low on oil will eventually cause the compressor to seize; perhaps evidenced by belt damage/failure, if not some odor like that already present. Merely adding R12 does not replace the lost oil and there is really no way to know how much has escaped.

A good, trusted A/C shop is rare for some reason. I'd suggest it is a good time to leak test the other sections of the system, as seals fail elsewhere and a sniffer can find them where no oily traces are seen.
 
Do you have to have special compressors for that? Or just other special components? I hadn't heard of it - I will certainly look into it as that is the reason I was going to convert to R134 in the first place.

Sorry for the late reply...tried to on my so-called "smart" phone, but it apparently is not smart enough. :chuckle

Anyway, no special components needed. I just do the R134 conversion, but don't use the actual R134 refrigerant. Either type of oil is compatible with the hydrocarbon based refrigerants, but really to get the system working at its best the entire system needs to be completely flushed, replace the dryer/accumulator and orifice tube (with a good one), and all seals/O-rings.

I have to agree with boomdriver also...just replace the compressor. Shortcuts here just won't pay off in the long run!

WP...Hell man a good "anything" shop is hard to find! And ain't nuthin wrong with being a little environmentally conscious! :thumb (and btw R134 is still very bad not only for the environment, but is also a MSDS listed carcinogen).
 
And ain't nuthin wrong with being a little environmentally conscious! :thumb (and btw R134 is still very bad not only for the environment, but is also a MSDS listed carcinogen).

Thanks so much! Great to know and will definitely have them use that. I think since I do know of a good garage I'm going to sit this one out. Really it is just a time factor on top of everything else; I barely have time to do regular maintenance on my vehicles at this point much less a major job that I don't really know how to do. :thumb
 
Packed sealed bearing in the AC clutch,Sorry Dawn!~!!
The front seal is going out of the compressor,You'll need a Refrigeration Reclamation Unit,Seal,AC Clutch puller,AC seal puller and a AC seal installer!:thumb

:beer

Yes, I realize it has been a year since I posted this. Got the 90 running again and forgot my a/c problem until yesterday. Question: Why would you have to evac the system? Is it possible to replace the seal by simply unbolting the unit but keeping it connected to the car? Can't you extract the clutch assembly from the unit without removing the unit from the car or is that just too much hassle? I'm guessing you need have the compressor someplace where you can get proper hold of it in order to pull the clutch, correct?
 
Actually, I just got off the phone with the shop that I was going to use. They said that if the seal is broken (and now that its been sitting for a year), very likely all the freon has leaked out. That would make sense because I had no cold air blowing yesterday when I drove it although last year when the seal blew the a/c was still working. So, if that is the case then I technically could just replace the compressor myself and then have the system recharged yes? If it has been sitting empty would any other components get damaged? I got quoted $1275 for this job..... don't have the money at the moment so any advice would be appreciated!
 
FWIW regarding the 134 conversion, isn't there another new refrigerant standard in the pipeline?

:)
 
Dawn, I presume you have the Factory Service Manuals for your car. Your a/c won't work if the freon gets low enough that the internal gas pressure goes below about 30 psi (engine off and cool). Because there's probably still internal pressure in your system, you need special procedures and tools to work safely and protect the environment. If you've really lost all of your refrigerant, and the system has been empty for a year, you may also have internal corrosion that will cause many other problems. Your a/c shop will be able to evaluate whether this is a potential problem, and that may be why their price for the repair is so high! Read up on the procedures in the FSM so you can ask them the right questions, and have them explain their prices. Good luck on the repair. Hopefully, you've found an honest shop that won't take you for a ride!
By the way, the oil that's splattered on the underside of your hood from the leaky seal needs to be thoroughly cleaned off. It will eventually penetrate thru your fiberglass (really SMC) and cause blisters in your paint!

:pat
 
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Dawn, the shops, even a GOOD one will charge $1000 or more to do almost ANY underhood a/c repair because of the licensing, tech certification and equip needed to do the job. YOU can do it for $150 plus the cost of whatever replacement part (compressor?) you need. Reman compressors are fine if you do the work and do it right. Replace ANY O-rings on anything that's been apart. On an old system that's been dry, its best to do ALL the O-rings. Not as big a deal as it seems like. Get a new orifice tube, o-ring set, and dryer. The dryer is only $12........Before bolting up the compressor, add 1oz of the correct oil to the compressor and then attach the line/mounting block. After its mounted before the belt is put on, use a socket to spin the compressor at least 10 times. This is to spread the oil inside. DO NOT skip that step ! Then make sure every fitting is tight, new o- rings installed, wetted with oil before tightened, then evac the system until it holds neg 29hg for an hr after the vac pump is d/c. You evac the system to remove water...moisture that raises the boiling pt of the refrigerant and reduces the cooling efficiency. After evac is complete jump the low pressure switch and start car with a/c ON and a can of gas attached and open....add liquid the first can so it goes in fast. You MUST get gas in there while the low pressure switch is jumped ASAP so the compressor does not seize. This is also why you added some oil before bolting it up... BTW...the other 6-7 oz of oil should have been added a little in different spots in the system. OR 1 oz in the compressor and the rest in the new dryer. After you get the 1st can of gas in, take the jumper off the low switch and reconnect it. The compressor should run on its own now and you can add the next can normally. Use a little less 134a than the r-12 that WAS in there. After 2 cans, look at the pressures to see when you have enough. When the high & low are balanced, that's when to stop adding gas...there is NOT a "set" amount of 134a to add in a conversion...books say "about" 90% of what r-12 was there but that's just a guess. Go by the pressures. Adding 1 oz too much will cause it to not cool as well as it could....1-2 oz too little and its slow to cool. That's why you charge by the pressures and not weight of the gas. It will be right at 2 cans or possibly a cpl oz of a 3rd can. You can get all the gauges and vac pump at Auto-zone. Get the pressures to use off google searches ...piece of cake Saturday job.:thumb
 
Boomdriver, how can you fill the sytem within +/- one or two ounces from the small refrigerant can? This can be done if you have the large professional 30 lb. container, with a precision scale to weigh the container, but to do this with the small can would require dumping the rest of the can into the atmosphere! These small cans of refrigerant can't be re-sealed once they are pierced! Is it really that critical?

:pat
 

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