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LT1 Intake Manifold Seal

Red VelVette

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2004
Messages
74
Location
Dacula, GA
Corvette
2002 Torch Red/Black Coupe
For all of you mechanics out there-a friend of mine has a '93 with a minor oil leak from the intake manifold. His local Chevy dealer quoted him $625 to replace the seal with parts and labor including an EGR.

He ask me if it was a good price. Sounds fair to me but I am not an expert. Any opinions appreciated.
 
Red VelVette said:
For all of you mechanics out there-a friend of mine has a '93 with a minor oil leak from the intake manifold. His local Chevy dealer quoted him $625 to replace the seal with parts and labor including an EGR.

He ask me if it was a good price. Sounds fair to me but I am not an expert. Any opinions appreciated.

Its 20 bucks for the intake gasket and egr gasket add 10 bucks for a tube of the RIGHT STUFF and your paying 595 for labor.
I only let the alignment guy touch my cars, I do every thing else and if I had access to a good alignment machine I would align them myself too.


Mike
 
Red VelVette said:
For all of you mechanics out there-a friend of mine has a '93 with a minor oil leak from the intake manifold. His local Chevy dealer quoted him $625 to replace the seal with parts and labor including an EGR.

He ask me if it was a good price. Sounds fair to me but I am not an expert. Any opinions appreciated.

Sounds about right. I had the same fix on my LT1 and it was in that $ range.
 
Thanks for the feedback. He is not mechanically inclined so a do-it-yourself job would not be wise. I don't have a labor rate book to see what was standard for that but it seemed reasonable.
 
aboatguy said:
Its 20 bucks for the intake gasket and egr gasket add 10 bucks for a tube of the RIGHT STUFF and your paying 595 for labor.
I only let the alignment guy touch my cars, I do every thing else and if I had access to a good alignment machine I would align them myself too.


Mike

Mike,
I have a 89 with the L98 and I think I may have to replace my gasket also.
How hard of a job is it?
There is an awful lot of stuff on the manifold. Does much of that have to come off or is it as simple as removing all the bolts on the manifold and lift it off?
I was going to get the Haynes manual to walk me through it.
What manual did you use or are you a mechanic that didn't need no stinking manual?
Lee
 
Lee

You can not remove the maniflod without removing the plentum, runners and fuel rail-injector assembly. The distributer also has to come out. Remove the dist cap and bump the engine over till the rotor points to the rear and mark the position. also mark the position of the rotor when you lift out the distriguter, it turns when you lit it out and also when you install it.The second mark helps you get it in the right position. I don't know about the Haynes but I have the Helms for my 90. It gave the order to take parts off. If you have a digital camera , take pictures as you go along. Label the bolts or lay them out in the pattern you take them out.They are not all the same length. It might even be a good idea to take notes as you go so you can remeber the order that parts go back on. Order is important on reasemble. Some of the runner bolts are a bit of a trick. A swivle and wobble extensions are helpfull. When you pick up the gasket set be sure to check if it contains the EGR gasket, my set did not.This is also a very good time to replace some of the vacume hoses and the hose from the manifold to the TB. You will also want some gasket remover, get enough ,the gaskets are baked on to the point of almost being part of the runners and intake.If you have never done it before it does take time. One other thing, this would be a good time to have the injectors checked or at least check the ohmage on them. 16 ohms is what they should be. Hope this is helpfull.

Glenn
:w
 
G Winter said:
Lee

You can not remove the maniflod without removing the plentum, runners and fuel rail-injector assembly. The distributer also has to come out. Remove the dist cap and bump the engine over till the rotor points to the rear and mark the position. also mark the position of the rotor when you lift out the distriguter, it turns when you lit it out and also when you install it.The second mark helps you get it in the right position. I don't know about the Haynes but I have the Helms for my 90. It gave the order to take parts off. If you have a digital camera , take pictures as you go along. Label the bolts or lay them out in the pattern you take them out.They are not all the same length. It might even be a good idea to take notes as you go so you can remeber the order that parts go back on. Order is important on reasemble. Some of the runner bolts are a bit of a trick. A swivle and wobble extensions are helpfull. When you pick up the gasket set be sure to check if it contains the EGR gasket, my set did not.This is also a very good time to replace some of the vacume hoses and the hose from the manifold to the TB. You will also want some gasket remover, get enough ,the gaskets are baked on to the point of almost being part of the runners and intake.If you have never done it before it does take time. One other thing, this would be a good time to have the injectors checked or at least check the ohmage on them. 16 ohms is what they should be. Hope this is helpfull.

Glenn
:w
Glenn,
The only help that did was help scare the crap out of me. I thought I was a little mechaniclly inclined but now I know just how little. As much as I hate to turn my baby over to someone to work on, I feel it is in my best interest to let a qualified person do the job. I do appreciate your very detailed message because it left little doubt that this job is not for me.
Thank you,
Lee
 
Sounds like a very fair price to me. I had to pay $425 for a tune-up. Never again...
 

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