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Need A/C help in Florida

Small snags.

1) I don't own a wrench big enough to get the inlet/outlet lines off of the accumulator. They're bigger than 1 inch, and that's all i have. (let the jokes begin). I can borrow one or go buy some. But that's not going to happen until tomorrow.
2) There is almost no room to move a wrench on the upper fitting (the one coming into the side, not the one on the bottom). I can get a wrench on it (if I had the right size) but it is wedged between the coolant reservoir and the evaporator housing. I don't think I can spin a wrench even if I get on it.

I can solve the first one, but the 2nd one has me stumped.

Any suggestions?

I did get the orifice tube replaced. Mine was black, but not covered in crud like the one in your pic. The new ford one went in a lot easier than the old one came out (just as a note, the Ford one I got (i triple checked the part # so I know it is correct) is orange, not blue (different manufacturers)).

I found something interesting in the shop manual:
"The accumulator should ONLY be replaced when:
1) a physical perforation to the accumulator is found resulting in a leak
2) the expansion (orifice) tube screen experiences continued or repeated plugging
3) The compressor inlet screen is plugged (A6 compressor)
4) An evaporator fails because of inside-out (internal) corrosion"

Part of me is tempted to go with the manual and not rip the flesh off of my knuckles trying to get a wrench in there.

Please Help!!!
Well Do what you must,but if you don't change the accumulator you have just wasted your time!!! If the screen was black,thats ground up descant,Not Only will it Not Cool right,It will Kill your compressor over time!!!When the screen gets as bad as the one I pictured,It's TOO Late!! You need to change the schrader valves to,there less than $1.00 each and they have descant stuck in them and there leaking!!:thumb
Just be glad you don't have to put a Evaporator in it,You'd get the remove the Exhaust Manifold,Valve Cover and the Rocker Arms off of 6 and 8 to get the case out!!!!:boogie:boogie:boogie
PS Why don't you remove the screws out of the coolant tank and drop it down out of the way??It's been a while,but if I remember right you can take the triangular plate off the bottom of the fender and drop it clear out of there!!:thumb Are you going to whoose out on me on this project and I have to come over there and finish it?? :D:D:D
 
Don't worry, i'm going to do it right.
I'm not looking forward to it, but i'm going to do it.

If you were closer, I'd definitely be coming to you for help.
I pay for parts and beer:beer.
I'll get back to work tomorrow and let you know how it goes. By Sunday afternoon I should have nice cold air. :thumb

Thanks!!!
 
Well I got everything put back together.
It took about 3.5 hours longer than it should have, but I got it done.

I pulled 28 in Hg of a vacuum on it and it held for over an hour. I'm going to let it sit all night. If it holds, I'll put in the 4 cans of freon (44 oz which is precisely 10% less than factory spec) and the 6 oz of ester oil.

Should I put in the freon or the oil first?

I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thanks for your help!!!
 
Well I got everything put back together.
It took about 3.5 hours longer than it should have, but I got it done.

I pulled 28 in Hg of a vacuum on it and it held for over an hour. I'm going to let it sit all night. If it holds, I'll put in the 4 cans of freon (44 oz which is precisely 10% less than factory spec) and the 6 oz of ester oil.

Should I put in the freon or the oil first?

I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thanks for your help!!!
STOP!!ALTO!!HALT!!
 
DO NOT PUT 6 oz of oil!! You will have to Much oil in System!!


IMPORTANT!! Or system will not cool properly!!:thumb:thumb:thumb
 
Trouble.

I put in 2 and 1/2 cans (12 oz per cans). I hooked up the 3rd can and watched the vent temp drop to about 67. Then I looked at the psi: low-37, high 340.
I decided I should stop there before my high pressure lines exploded.

My only guess is that there is too much oil in the system. When I removed the accumulator, I refilled the new one with the same amount that came out of the old one. I guess the old one was too full.

I'm going to have to think about this for a little while, but it looks like I'll be removing the compressor to drain some oil.

Any other suggestions are welcome.
 
I was afraid of that!! I really like to dump ALL the oil out and start out fresh!:thumb
 
This is a great post...lots of info about a really poorly performing C3 AC system. I am interested to know your thoughts about the r134-a that has "additives" to help cool better, some claim 18%. Also, the cans are of numerous capacities. I am assuming my 1977 reair manual states 3 pounds of refrigerant as the original capacity would mean 48 ounces of refrigerant???? I don't have a shop close by that has a means to weigh the freon, they only use cans or bulk....any suggestions.
 
This is a great post...lots of info about a really poorly performing C3 AC system. I am interested to know your thoughts about the r134-a that has "additives" to help cool better, some claim 18%. Also, the cans are of numerous capacities. I am assuming my 1977 reair manual states 3 pounds of refrigerant as the original capacity would mean 48 ounces of refrigerant???? I don't have a shop close by that has a means to weigh the freon, they only use cans or bulk....any suggestions.

Yes, 3 pounds of freon is 48 oz. If you follow gmjunkie (i would) and go with 10% less, then you're looking at 43-44 oz total. My manual also sais 6 oz of oil for the system.
I can't say much about additives in the freon. But I do warn you to read the fine print on the back of the can. Some cans say they have 13 oz, but on the back they say it is 11 oz of freon and 2 oz of oil. Don't use these unless you know you need oil.
I have also seen some cans that advertise net weight of 12 oz, but on the back they say they contain 11 oz of freon. I guess the 12th oz was the can.
So if you use four 12 oz cans (assuming it is 11 freon, 1 can) then you would have approximately 44 oz. Probably a few ounces less when you consider the hoses for the charging system hold a few ounces.
The other step that is important, is make sure you vacuum out the system before you add more freon. Putting the system under a vacuum and leaving it there will get the air and moisture out of the system.

Good Luck!!
 
Status Update

Hello everyone,

I removed some oil from the system. I got the oil of the condenser by disconnecting both lines going to it and blowing compressed air through it. I also removed the compressor and let it sit for about an hour draining out the oil. I'm not sure how much oil i removed (i accidentally spilled the container before i could measure it).

I installed a blue Ford orifice tube.

I pulled a vacuum and let it sit for a few hours. Vacuum held.
I put in two 12oz cans of freon.
The low pressure was 28 psi
The high side was 200 psi.
Air at the vent was 53 degrees.

I may not have filled the system completely (2 cans doesn't seem like it is enough). But it is a lot easier to add more than to remove some.

Thank you GMJunkie for all of your help!!!!
 
Hello everyone,

I removed some oil from the system. I got the oil of the condenser by disconnecting both lines going to it and blowing compressed air through it. I also removed the compressor and let it sit for about an hour draining out the oil. I'm not sure how much oil i removed (i accidentally spilled the container before i could measure it).

I installed a blue Ford orifice tube.

I pulled a vacuum and let it sit for a few hours. Vacuum held.
I put in two 12oz cans of freon.
The low pressure was 28 psi
The high side was 200 psi.
Air at the vent was 53 degrees.

I may not have filled the system completely (2 cans doesn't seem like it is enough). But it is a lot easier to add more than to remove some.

Thank you GMJunkie for all of your help!!!!

REPLY: Did you remember to purge the charging hose of air before admitting the freon into the system ? If not, then air is in the system which is a non-condensible and it will cause higher than normal hi-side pressures and decreased cooling capacity somewhat.
 
Ok where do I get one of these "blue Ford orifice tube"? Any parts house, Auto Zone etc or do I have to go to Ford or order one? I assume that my '76' takes the same size as you folks have been referring to. I have replace the main A/C hoses and want to replace this while the system is empty. Thanks
 
Help with pictures, can some one send me a email or private message with the pic's that gmjunkie posted of the the location of the orifice tube, I want to replace mine but before I start remove things I would like to see a pic of where it goes, I am a very visual guy so pic's help a lot.
Not sure why I can't see the ones in the post but I can't see them at work or at home so don't think its a computer issue.
Thanks
 
Help with pictures, can some one send me a email or private message with the pic's that gmjunkie posted of the the location of the orifice tube, I want to replace mine but before I start remove things I would like to see a pic of where it goes, I am a very visual guy so pic's help a lot.
Not sure why I can't see the ones in the post but I can't see them at work or at home so don't think its a computer issue.
Thanks


yah..mee tooooo....
 
Curtis can't help with the pic's but I have found out that the 76 did not have the orifice tube that function was accomplish with the VIR. I have posted some pic's of my system with a VIR eliminator installed in a different post titled "Ford Blue orfice ......" So bottom line for us 76ers is don't worry about the orifice tube.
 
I have heard that the vir eliminator is not the way to go, just keep the vir like it was designed. but I know that that id not what you have.
 
When I did my resarch on this I was told that to convert to 134 the VIR should be elimated that it would not work well with 134. I am not an expert and my system was not working before I changed over so don't have much to compare to. After I converted it work good for about year but then the main compressor hose developed a leak, finaly got that fixed and by the end of the weekend I should have some results to report.
 
Anyone know what the part # for this blue orfice tube? Or year and model it was used in?
 

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