Need urgent evaluation advice

[KOPBET]

Calling all shark experts! I have little knowledge on these cars and need your advice please.

I am going to look at a '73 tonight.

About all I know so far:

Has overhauled original 454 except for intake and heads, cam. Has higher comp heads and hotter cam (from what I've been told thus far). 4 spd w/ 68k.

Silver w/ox blood interior. I know the front bumper will need cracks repaired or replaced.

What I am looking for is advice on what to check out and what to look out for. I am not concerned with originality, matching. Where to check for rust, what to expect for the price - $9.5k

TIA - Kop.

 

[KOPBET]

Update:

Information from seller:

1973 Corvette Stingray T-Top Coupe - Partially restored
454 Cubic Inch engine, 4 speed Transmission
68K miles.

Complete engine overhaul @ 67K mi. with hotter cam
& raised compression. Still runs on regular gas.
Stainless steel exhaust tips & trim rings
All exterior chrome replaced or re-chromed
Brake overhaul including s/s calipers, pads, hoses, mast. cyl.
All rubber weather seals replaced - doors, t-top, underhood
Interior update (except door panels) - new carpets, seat covers,
seat foam, several trim pieces
Suspension upgrade - shocks, improved strut rods, urethane
bushings
New radiator, heater core & hoses
Under-hood chrome & zinc plating
A/C update - VIR eliminator, hose, rebuilt compressor


Pics to follow...

 

[KOPBET]

Pics:

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http://members.cox.net/kopbet/pics 0593.jpg

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[Vettehead Mikey]

All the mods he has made either devalue the car or have no effect, but do not increase the value. The engine mods in particular devalue the car as an original untoouched '73 454 car are much sought after. I hope the engine pad was not erased during the overhaul.

If you are not experienced in looking at C3s, you might want to have somebody with you, or hire somebody to do it. It's all too easy to accidently think with the 'small' brain and buy a pretty car that turns out to be a resto-pig.

 

[Yoda]

I am far from being a C3 Expert

I always check the fender seams to see if it is still factory seams or had topsourround or panels replaced. Then see that the body lines are correct and everythhing works without binding, e.g. Hood, Doors, Windows and turn the steering wheel from stop to stop and check tire clearance both infront and inback of the tire.

Check back compartment to see if it is intact and solid, esp. the battery compartment. Check all rubber bushings front and rear suspension, as well the shocks, springs and brake lines. I also jackup the rear and do a cursory check of the bearings and half/shafts, also ask about trailing arms, when or have they been rebuilt or replaced, and who did the work.. not something done by a novice

If I get serious then I pull one front and one back tire and check the disc brakes for wear and how the park brake works. I also take a tape measure and measure from the top of each fender well to the ground to get a ball park idea how level or if leveling the car is possible, with in 3/8" or so isn't too bad (from side to side).

Look for water stains, and take a phillips screwdriver and check a few of the screws in the T-Top frame make sure they unscrew and tighten up, same with the door panel.

Then drive it, here I get it up to cruising speed 65 ~ 85 somewhere then let off the gas until engine slow the car down to around 40 ~ 45 then punch it and see if it smokes any and if the carb works right.

Sitting in the driveway, push the clutch in and go to reverse (staight from neutral) if the clutch is good and adjusted it should slide right in to reverse, you shouldn't have to go to 1st or 2nd before going to reverse to keep it from grinding

Rust... the frame, use the phillips screw driver to poke a few spots, then check the birdcage, Some folks use a business card and slip it between the frame and the chome covers, IF you are serious about buying it, I recommend taking the panels off and checking, also another place to remove the sidekick panels and use a flash light to see if there is rust streaks on the frame and inside panel up toward the windshield..

Then trust your gut or get a mech to to check it out..

Somewhere here at CAC is a check list when looking to purchase a Corvette, might be in the Tech Center .. I'm sure with your computer skills and talent you can find it if not let me know and I go take a look

Good luck on the 73 and if you get it for $9,500 or within a couple thousand bucks, I'd be shocked :eek

Bud

 

[Yoda]

KOP here is the form I was referring too:

Purchase Evaluation Form

Bud

 

[JOE BYRNE]

Im not an expert but if the frame checks out along with the birdcage and it runs well without blowing smoke....and if you can get it for the price you say then I would grab it. The engine modifications usually mean nothing but a possible pain the the a** ...not always but you never know. It looks pretty good without seeing the interior.

 

[Chas]

i am no expert either, but i would remove the trim on the windshield pillars inside...the tops leak and alot of water can run behind it and sit in the horizontal piece on the top of the frame....also if you can carefully remove the kick panels and look at the frame work behind them as well...a 73 dont have a metal floor so rust under the carpet isnt an issue here.
this is just advise from experience as i have worked on mine. i wont make any suggestions on the motor...i would look at the rear tires for pitch out and if the are paralell to the side of the car.
the rest should be self evident i think.
Chas

 

[waterboy1976]

For that p[rice ($9500) it seems like an aok buy....check out the frame and birdcage though like everyone above says...Then we can welcome you to the 73 club....!!!!

 

[JOE BYRNE]

If I had to say anything about the visual that im looking at is that i would look at the pitch of the rear tires. Other than that it has a bunch of possibilites for that price. Don't listen to the guy in Cleveland with that red 73 he has been drinking most of the day.

 

[Yoda]

If I had to say anything about the visual that im looking at is that i would look at the pitch of the rear tires. Other than that it has a bunch of possibilites for that price

Joe, and other 73's

What's that small antenna on the back passager side could it be a very rare option for 1973 like FM Stereo/Reel to Reel Tape Deck..... rubbing hands together, evil laughter and running for cover

Bud

 

[waterboy1976]

If I had to say anything about the visual that im looking at is that i would look at the pitch of the rear tires. Other than that it has a bunch of possibilites for that price. Don't listen to the guy in Cleveland with that red 73 he has been drinking most of the day.

Drinking most of the day???? Haven't even started yet.....its 5 oclock somewhere aint it???


Reel to reel........Yeah baby....I got one of them too!!!!!! But I got 3 antennas......

 

[bossvette]

I agree with Joe if you are buying it for enjoyment purposes as long as the frame isn't rotten the price is almost too good. The 73 is a one year car with the urathane bumper in front and steel in the rear which some (me included) feel make it the one of the best looking of the C3s.

Remember you are buying a 33 year old car and things can and do go wrong with them, but they are quite simple to work on. I'm stuck on dial-up so I didn't look at all the pictures but the first one looks good.
There are drain holes in the frame kick-up that sometimes get clogged which causes rust in that area, you should be able to stick a small screwdriver in them to check that they are clear.
Good luck
Craig sr.

 

[KOPBET]

Can you guys explain more about the pitch out of the rear tires? What is that indicative of? Is this a common issue?

 

[Chas]

I agree with Joe if you are buying it for enjoyment purposes as long as the frame isn't rotten the price is almost too good. The 73 is a one year car with the urathane bumper in front and steel in the rear which some (me included) feel make it the one of the best looking of the C3s.

Remember you are buying a 28 year old car and things can and do go wrong with them, but they are quite simple to work on. I'm stuck on dial-up so I didn't look at all the pictures but the first one looks good.
There are drain holes in the frame kick-up that sometimes get clogged which causes rust in that area, you should be able to stick a small screwdriver in them to check that they are clear.
Good luck
Craig sr.

Im pretty sure its actually 33 years old, but my math is off a bit since, ....well lets just say IM off a bit!
The antenna in the rear is for the tube style radio, but the ole 78 victrola in mine rules!!!
Chas

 

[waterboy1976]

Stand behind the car and look at the tires.....Imagine a 90 degree angle straight up from the ground.....The tires should be straight up and down..also check the tire wear on the outside as well as inside edge of the tire.....if it is worn then that could indicate worn supsension parts at worst case and a simple alignment best case....also grab the top of the tire and pull back nad forht in to out that will give you an idea if any bearings or bushings are going bad in the trailing arm......

Keep in mind too as said before the car is 33 years old....It will never be perfect and there will probably be always "something" to do or fix or replace but thats the fun....you learn about the car and enjoy it cause you put some sweat equity into it....they are a great car.....

 

[KOPBET]

but the ole 78 victrola in mine rules!!!
Chas

I'll bet that victrola skips like a son-a-ma-bich !!!
:L

But at least the tube-type radio will help keep 'em warm in the winter.

 

[JOE BYRNE]

Looks like a super duper device. C/B antenna ...I have one on mine. Makes me feel very important whwn they are both up I might add:L

 

[waterboy1976]

Looks like a super duper device. C/B antenna ...I have one on mine. Makes me feel very important whwn they are both up I might add:L

Wow......I cant believe you admit that in public........

Do you have coontails attached to them?????

 

[bossvette]

Can you guys explain more about the pitch out of the rear tires? What is that indicative of? Is this a common issue?

the bearings in the trailing arms wear out and get loose causing the the rear tires to have too much camber (they tilt in at the top looking from the rear) which results in quick tire wear. Very common but also fixable in several ways; either replace the whole trailing arm assy or
just the bearings. I shopped mine out in the 76, but did it a year later myself when I snapped a spindle and upgraded to HD aftermarket ones.

rear view of my 76, the rear tires should be just shy of vertical park it on concrete and use a carpenters square the top of the tire should be about 1/4 tilted in.

BTW mine is not numbers matching